peddycoart

My car has had the following series of events in a matter of a month: 1st) tire sensor light staying on 2) navigation disk not detected, 3) brake light, ABS light came on and speedometer quit working. The car seems to drive okay, steering maybe a little stiffer then I remember. Took it to the dealership service department and was told I had two tire sensors that needed to be replaced and the ECU skid control needed to be replaced. Approximately $3000 + repair. Checking into buying used ECU and try to replace myself. However, concerned about how difficult it is to get to the skid control ECU and if it is more then just the skid control ECU. Anyone had any similar issues with their SC430? Help and advice would be greatly appreciated!

V300Graham

Is there an indepentent reputable mechanic or workshop who specializes in faster japanese cars like Nissan Skylines, Toyota Supras, Honda Type R's etc etc nearby who may be able to offer you a more bespoke service and get the parts second hand from Japan or from used car parts retailers ?
The best of the Japaneses marque focused mechanics are getting in pallets of used but serviceable engines and gearboxes etc from Japan twice a month and it would be easy for them to get your parts second hand from Japan, for a fraction of dealer costs. It's what I would do if I was faced with such a high bill.

emg2919

Did you get to the bottom of this? I am having the exact same issues (ABS, Brake, VSC dash lights on, difficult steering, etc).

Mine is in the shop now, curious if you were able to sort it out.

Thanks!

emg2919

Anybody else had this issue? My car is still in the shop (dealer) and they have yet to diagnose the issue, been a week. I'm having the exact same issues as the OP. VSC, VSC Off, Brake, ABS lights all on, as well as difficult steering.

Dealer said they thought it was skid control ECU and a new power steering pump, even though they said this one looked fine and wasnt leaking.

A/C compressor is also starting to go, makes loud hum when a/c compressor is on....

Bgw70

Hey emg, I saw your PM and will try to help.
First let's look at the power steering issue. If your PS seems fine at higher speed then your vacuum lines on the drivers side may have disconnected. This vacuum controls how much PS assistance the pump will provide. If it is disconnected, you will have almost no PS at slow speed.
You will need to remove the top engine cover to see the lines.
The lines will disconnect if you have bad motor mounts. Have you ever replaced the motor mounts?
I replaced mine a few months ago at 65k miles.

Last question for now, has anyone performed any maintenance in the engine compartment lately?

Bgw70

hey everyone, if I am wrong about the location of the vacuum lines please help out...

emg2919

Thanks BGW - a few answers. Yes, the PS is only noticeably difficult at low speeds. Yes, I have had my motor mounds changed about 2 years ago.

I also had my oil changed, front brake rotors turned, new front brake pads put on about 45 miles prior to my PS, ABS, VSC, VSC Lights going on, on the dash as well. I think they are all related. (This all happened on August 16th - I got my car back on August 14th and only drove it 45 miles between picking it up and the issues occurring.

They would have been underneath the car for the oil change and filter - they did say the PS pump went bad, but it all seemed to happen at the same time. Dash lights, PS issue, etc - exactly like the OP post. I think it's all too circumstantial and I think they are all related.

I am going to the dealer in the AM to have a closer look at the car, jump the OBD myself (they have been using the tech stream to try and zero calibrate with no luck) and look at the PS hoses. I'll try and take off the engine cover as well. Frustrating stuff, thanks for the insight and i appreciate any other info you may have.

Bgw70

Emg,
have you tried to disconnect the battery terminal?
this may reset the issues if they are related to the brake job.
I have been able to reset the VSC OFF light by shorting the OBDII pins 4&14. Are you familiar with this procedure?
It is listed in the Toyota service manual and it has been posted in these forums in several threads.
Mandyfig just reposted it today in another thread.

I do not have access to my car or my manuals right now and cannot look anything up but I do know the PS has an electrical connector and vacuum. They are both directly related to how much PS assistance you will receive at high or low speed.

I can tell you that my PS stopped working after I changed my timing belt because I did not reconnect the electrical connector. I do not think this is your problem because there is no logical reason it would be disconnected.
How many miles do you have?
I personally think it would be odd for the PS pump to go bad, it can happen and I may catch hell for what I just said.
Anyway, if it were me, I would confirm the electrical and vacuum connections look good. Then I would change the PS system, which I have done. It's messy but well worth it. I really could tell the difference.
Let me emphasize this, NEVER POWER FLUSH THE PS, TRANSMISSION or allow anyone to put engine cleaner in your car. Replace old fluid with new. That is my opinion and I have always experienced positive results. Most of the dirt will leave with the old fluid.

emg2919

No I haven't tried that yet, but I am going to do the jumper in the AM.

I'll also try removing the negative terminal on the battery to see if that changes anything.

Bgw70

I just added more info in the previous post...

emg2919

Great thanks. I don't think it's electrical as it did work when I drove away, but maybe that electrical connection wasn't clicked in and it eventually came loose? I'll take a look. Car just ticked over 150k, 2002 model.

Haven't changed the PS system before or any fluids, I have been taking it to the dealer for the past few years as they do a good job typically. I did have my timing belt changed but that was about 40k miles ago.

I'll be able to take a closer look in the AM - I am going into the dealership to take a look at it myself and do the 4/14 OBD jumper/zero calibration reset, look at the vacuum lines to the PS pump and see if I can see any electrical connectors disconnected.

Thanks again for the help this is great.

Bgw70

All sounds good, I hope you find something obvious and easy to fix.

emg2919

Spoke to the dealer - they said the PS system was dry and that if there was a disconnected vacuum hose, there would be fluid everywhere. Sound about right?

I'm going there today to pick up the car, try the OBD2 reset, battery reset, and then from there I'll take it back if that doesnt fix anything. Frustrating.

emg2919

Just got it back from the dealer. He was essentially doing some free diag, but didn't find anything. He never used the jumper method to reset the OBD, as he said the tech stream had handshake capability (?) and it wasn't working.

I tried the OBD jumper VSC reset as soon as I got home, to no avail. I tried the pins 3&13 method and the 4&14 method. I could never get the VSC light to blink rapidly, I even left it on the ON Position for 30-60s, and nothing. (I didn't start the car, just turned it to the ON position like the DIY says).

The read Brake and orange ABS lights are also on. Those come on at the same time as the DRL's activate, which I assume is just some sort of timer, not related - but I'm not sure. Also, the speedometer does not work.

I currently have the battery's negative terminal disconnected and am trying that method of reset for 20 mins to see if I can reset the ECU that way. Hopefully this produces some results.

Additionally, there was no power steering fluid missing, it is all there, but the power steering system is just not working properly - I guess this is chalked up to coincidence?

On top of that, my AC compressor has been on the way out for the past 4 weeks.

Next steps - get AC compressor fixed/replaced as well as power steering pump/motor. I want to just make some headway and fix a few things for morale. Going to order the parts this weekend and get it done end of next week.

Once these are fixed, I will focus on the skid control ECU, but hopefully this battery reset method will fix it and it won't need it! Wish me luck!

Bgw70

I really must be honest when I tell you, at 150k miles things Are going to happen. If I made a list you would be amazed at everything I fixed or replaced since I purchased earlier this year with only 63k miles. The car now has 70k miles and it finally runs, drives etc like it should.

These cars are expensive and well built but they have so many things that can and will break.

Nothing against the previous owner but he did not fix things, but I do. I also turn wrenches.

I want to help you but you seem to have many problems showing up at one time.

They are different and seem to be unrelated and I would recommend you take it to a person who can handle the issues properly. I do not want to scare you but believe you may be in for some big expenses.

Have you had this car for a long time?