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2006 Shock Options

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Old 08-01-14, 08:28 AM   #46
bacardi11
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guys don't know how good this setup is with the Swift Springs until they have it. right now i'm having Bilstein do the rear for a guy in the USSR that when finished I will ship to him. he can not get this done in USSR so i'm having it done here and will ship to him.
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Old 08-26-14, 12:50 PM   #47
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So I didn't want to start a new thread, so I'm piggy backing off this one. I have a question. Recently had my oil changed and my tech mentioned that he noticed my Passenger Rear shock spring was out of place. Not sure how this can happen or if it's an issue but I've attached a photo. He mentioned that compared to the other side that the clearance btn the spring and link was really minimal and asked if I've heard any "clanks" or "rubbing." Which I haven't. Should I be concerned? Should I fix this problem, or just wait until I decide to replace all the shocks?
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Old 08-26-14, 02:25 PM   #48
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... Can you see a difference in the location of this spring compared to the spring on the other side ???
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Old 08-26-14, 04:51 PM   #49
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Yes, there is more clearance on the left side when compared to the right. On the left, the link "sits" in a gap of the spring coil. But my question is, does this misalignment of the spring need to fixed soon or is it not of any consequence? The tech said that to reseat the spring they would have to remove the strut, spring, cap, etc, which would of course cost $. Not in my budget at the moment unless a true "emergency."
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Old 08-26-14, 05:18 PM   #50
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.....if it was me, I might check with one of the local suspension shops & get there opinion. I would also tell them that you're planning to change the shocks out in a couple of months & ask for an estimate. They may give you a honest or more fair opinion about the spring issue, if they feel they can get to do the work...just my thought
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Old 08-27-14, 09:20 AM   #51
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I will piggyback on this thread as well.

Last night I replaced my rear upper arm which was busted on the ball joint (at least the rubber cover was). I purchased a used one from ebay and it has been sitting on the shelf for about a year. I did this change thinking the clank coming from the DR side rear was caused by this upper arm.

I rented a set of tie rod pullers from Advance Auto and did replace the upper arm (which by itself is a challenge due to the bolt hidden near the gas tank). But with some sweat and tears, got it done. So I take it for a drive (I usually hear the clank going down the driveway, which is a steep one). Sure enough the clank is still there.

Now I did notice that my DR side spring is at the same location as previously shown on this thread.

Could it be that the “clank” is coming from this “unseated” spring? If I tear it down and re-seat it, I might as well replace the shocks…one or the other sucks that I still have this clank.
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Old 08-27-14, 11:10 AM   #52
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Yeah Mandyfig, now I've noticed a small clank as i turn right onto a driveway incline. If you take on this repair, any photos would be greatly appreciated. Hopefully if you attack this repair it will solve the clank. Keep us posted, please. Thanks.
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Old 08-27-14, 02:47 PM   #53
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I hated to see my busted upper arm anyway so I replaced it and without any credibility, I was hoping it was the cause of the clank (but I knew in the back of my mind it was bs). True enough as I slid down to my driver, the famous clank rang!!!

Towards the end of my upper arm replacement I noticed that my spring had a gap, it is supposed to be seated all the way to the stopper, I had the same condition just like what was shown on the picture. I knew it was not right. Tonight I will check the other side (Pass) and see if there exist no gap. I would bet you it will be different. I have not heard a clank on the pass side.

The pissy thing about this is the amount of work required to take the whole trunk off to get to the strut nuts. I just tore half the trunk off when I replaced my antenna to a stubby.

The good thing is that the rear struts are much easier to take off and put back, unlike the fronts. I do not know how you guys were able to do your without unbolting the front upper arm ball joint (in my case unbolting the upper arm bolts since I bought the wrong tie rod puller). And through this all, all it took was to rent the ball joint removal tool set from Advanced Auto and kwala, ball joint removed! (I had to use this for the Rear Upper Arm ball joint).

All about the right tools. I needed to lose a dew pounds anyway...but hated the uncertainty of not completing the work on time, it was 9:30 pm when i did my road trial. And to top it off, I had to request the pleasure of the wife's company since she had smaller hands, and she can access the tight spot to put in the 17 mm bolt for the Upper arm. That was PITA. I swore I will buy better tools, I need a 20 inch long 17 mm open wrench! And a 12 and a 14!

Back to the spring gap…
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Old 08-27-14, 04:18 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mandyfig View Post
I hated to see my busted upper arm anyway so I replaced it and without any credibility, I was hoping it was the cause of the clank (but I knew in the back of my mind it was bs). True enough as I slid down to my driver, the famous clank rang!!!

Towards the end of my upper arm replacement I noticed that my spring had a gap, it is supposed to be seated all the way to the stopper, I had the same condition just like what was shown on the picture. I knew it was not right. Tonight I will check the other side (Pass) and see if there exist no gap. I would bet you it will be different. I have not heard a clank on the pass side.

The pissy thing about this is the amount of work required to take the whole trunk off to get to the strut nuts. I just tore half the trunk off when I replaced my antenna to a stubby.

The good thing is that the rear struts are much easier to take off and put back, unlike the fronts. I do not know how you guys were able to do your without unbolting the front upper arm ball joint (in my case unbolting the upper arm bolts since I bought the wrong tie rod puller). And through this all, all it took was to rent the ball joint removal tool set from Advanced Auto and kwala, ball joint removed! (I had to use this for the Rear Upper Arm ball joint).

All about the right tools. I needed to lose a dew pounds anyway...but hated the uncertainty of not completing the work on time, it was 9:30 pm when i did my road trial. And to top it off, I had to request the pleasure of the wife's company since she had smaller hands, and she can access the tight spot to put in the 17 mm bolt for the Upper arm. That was PITA. I swore I will buy better tools, I need a 20 inch long 17 mm open wrench! And a 12 and a 14!

Back to the spring gapů
...Mandy I know your pain of not having the right tool for certain jobs. I am fortunate to have a friend who has his own shop & is an ex mechanic for Sewell Lexus, here in Dallas. If I don't have something to work on my car, I can usually call him & he'll let me come by the shop to work.
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Old 08-27-14, 04:18 PM
 
 
 
 
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2006, 24027434, circlip, groove, lexus, options, replacing, rim, sc430, shocks

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