DVDNAV Media Integration- NAVIKS
05-22-13, 10:10 PM
#17
So here are some pics of the Naviks install. As you can see, I haven't run the video inputs, yet. That is part of tomorrow's mission once I get a 12ft RCA cable. I also included some photos of the clearance behind the subwoofer. I've always been interested to find out how much room exists behind the sub, so I thought I'd post a few photos to help others pondering this same question. It also seems that one could theoretically remove the vertical greenish looking support bar that sits immediately posterior to the subwoofer to make room for a custom box or a deeper sub. Not sure how this would affect the structural integrity to support the folded hood though, but always an option. Chugging right along. More tomorrow. 
Last edited by ShawnOk; 05-22-13 at 11:09 PM.
05-28-13, 10:09 AM
#18
Full install is at 60% done. Pics to come soon. Took a short detour to refoam the rear speakers while I have the back seat down. Man, these ML speakers are garbage! Literally, all the speakers have ripped foam. Sub, L Rear, R Rear. No bueno.
PS. replaced the sub with a dual voice coil 8" sub (8ohms per coil) that i wired in series to get a full 16ohms. Found it on Ebay. So far it's tested out perfect. Great sound and more punch and fit into the factory mounting without major modification. Also, not torn like the ML. So much Win! (the link... http://www.ebay.com/itm/160964913909...84.m1439.l2649). Not a high dollar speaker or free air sub, but works for me. I'm happy with the results until i get some more $ to put in a full Rockford Fosgate system.
PS. replaced the sub with a dual voice coil 8" sub (8ohms per coil) that i wired in series to get a full 16ohms. Found it on Ebay. So far it's tested out perfect. Great sound and more punch and fit into the factory mounting without major modification. Also, not torn like the ML. So much Win! (the link... http://www.ebay.com/itm/160964913909...84.m1439.l2649). Not a high dollar speaker or free air sub, but works for me. I'm happy with the results until i get some more $ to put in a full Rockford Fosgate system.
Last edited by ShawnOk; 05-28-13 at 10:17 AM.
05-28-13, 11:41 AM
#19
Lexus Test Driver
Wow
So I got the Naviks installed and it is awesome! I'm no electrical engineer or cyborg from the future, but even I was able to install the unit on my own (with some minor assistance from a friend), so anyone should be able to do it. It was really simple with the included directions. I will say that I did have to call tech support about one thing: there was a white wire that I wasn't sure what to connect to. Called them and got an answer immediately from a tech. Apparently the white wire is for Volvo's and isn't needed in our SC430's. Tested it out with the Media Player and worked perfectly. Normal navigation still works when the toggle switch is flipped, and putting the car in reverse kicked it into backup camera mode. I hooked all the connections directly to the 18pin connector harness using wire tap connectors (http://i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v2/6...pg_250x250.jpg) since the directions told me exactly which wires in the harness did what. Now I just have to run the wires into the cabin of the car and connect the audio portion of the project. I've decided to change my wiring schematic a little. Rather than install the Media Player in the center console, I'm going to run it into the glove box. This will allow me greater access to use the remote control. I've included the new schematic. Hope this thread is keeping everyone's interest.
I short, If I buy the iSimple and Naviks will there be anything else I need for installation? Thanks!!
05-28-13, 12:05 PM
#20
Wow you have done some great working on your Naviks! It looks complicated though. I read through your post describing the installation and was honestly a little overwhelmed.
I short, If I buy the iSimple and Naviks will there be anything else I need for installation? Thanks!!
I short, If I buy the iSimple and Naviks will there be anything else I need for installation? Thanks!!
05-28-13, 09:16 PM
#21
Wow, that's really a shame. I can see how reinstalling not only once but twice, would be a real nightmare. So far I haven't had any problems, knock on wood. No offense, but I really hope I don't have similar issues. That's just too bad. Currently, I'm very happy with their product but if anything occurs with time, I will def post it right here. I read lots of reviews before giving them a shot over NavTool, and nearly all the customer reviews were positive. Really unfortunate that it didn't work out for you.
Last edited by ShawnOk; 05-28-13 at 09:20 PM.
05-28-13, 11:01 PM
#22
Driver School Candidate
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Wow, that's really a shame. I can see how reinstalling not only once but twice, would be a real nightmare. So far I haven't had any problems, knock on wood. No offense, but I really hope I don't have similar issues. That's just too bad. Currently, I'm very happy with their product but if anything occurs with time, I will def post it right here. I read lots of reviews before giving them a shot over NavTool, and nearly all the customer reviews were positive. Really unfortunate that it didn't work out for you.
05-29-13, 08:39 AM
#24
Coupesc, not sure why you deleted your post and then turned to trolling. Everyone is allowed to have an opinion on this forum. Seeing how your join date was this month and your complaint of a product was your first post, trolling might be your M.O. Anyway, as I said everyone is allowed to have their opinion and it's really a shame that Naviks didn't work out for you. It's really too bad b'c i'm greatly enjoying it and have not had a single problem, so far. But, I am taking your words as advice and if I have problems in the future I will update this post with the information and results.
05-29-13, 01:29 PM
#25
Naviks was really one of the most simple installs I've ever done. As for the iSimple, I'm starting that project today now that I ran the Video 1 cable into the glove box and drilled a hole for it to enter without it being an eyesore. I'm waiting for the refoam on speakers to dry so I can put them back in and button up the back seat and rear side panels. I tested the Naviks running from the glove box and and it works perfectly! I am planning on adding this ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/400430427867...84.m1497.l2649) in order to wirelessly switch on and off the connection rather than the toggle switch that I have to manually switch. THE SWITCH MUST BE A DRY SWITCH (ie. does not give a voltage output!!) Might be a good idea for anyone interested in this install to purchase. I'm going to put "A" to the iSimple, and "B" for the Naviks.
Just for info, here's an OLD thread on how I configured the switching for the NavTool.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...y-navtool.html
I've also done this mod on JohnnyCake's car but, instead of switching the NavTool video input, he uses it to enable/disable the Can't-Use-The-NAV-While-The-Car-Is-Moving lockout.
It makes for a super-clean install. The switch(ing) is completely transparent, without taking away any factory functionality.
Some food for thought during your project.
05-29-13, 01:48 PM
#26
Habious, thanks so much. It's actually THAT youtube video that got me interested in the DVDNAV upgrade years ago. You are a wiring genius when it came to that mod. I was so impressed, but i don't have the expertise (or the *****) to try to do that switch upgrade. It is amazing how in depth your described it but I really don't think I would be able to do it. Much respect to you for blazing the path, though!
05-29-13, 10:03 PM
#27
Here are some photos of the Video 1 Wire (Purple) through the hole into the cabin behind the rear seat, since I got some messages about how I ran it. I didn't have to use a drill for any part of the Naviks install. The hole is already there, with some adhesive over it. I also attached a few photos of the sub I replaced with: an 8 inch, 8 ohm dual voice coil subwoofer. I wired it in series to give 16 ohms. I tested it with an ohm meter to make sure and then covered the connections with electrical tape, better safe than sorry. Fit perfectly into the stock bracket and everything. I know it's not a free air sub but it's a gamble I was wiling to take. As you can see a much larger magnet than the ML sub. Had to do some wire adapting for the OEM harness, though... http://www.ebay.com/itm/160964913909...84.m1497.l2649
PS. I know one of the wires is cinched btn the sub and the firewall, I fixed it before tightening up the sub.
PS. I know one of the wires is cinched btn the sub and the firewall, I fixed it before tightening up the sub.
Last edited by ShawnOk; 06-01-13 at 05:44 PM.
05-31-13, 08:08 PM
#28
Wired up the audio today and everything works perfectly! Some finishing touches tomorrow and it's golden. Pics to come soon. Right now the center console looks like Frankenstein's Monster! IT'S ALIVE!!! IT'S ALIVE!!!
UPDATE: I've run into one small hitch. The Wireless RF switches that I want to use to replace both hardwire switches (on the Naviks and the Media player) are set up counter intuitive to what I was expecting. For example, when I start the car both switches are in the "on," position and therefore the screen instantly goes to Video 1 (media player mode) rather than the Navigation mode. It's not a huge deal. I just have to click the key fob button to change it back. The headache is that I have to do it every time i start the car. I figure while I have the center console open, why not contact the company that makes the remote and ask them if anything can be done to have the remote units start in "off" position rather than "on" position? I will report back once I have an answer. Otherwise, everything else runs perfectly. Also, a Black Chrome Reverse Licence Plate Camera is on order, so that will top this project off. Pics will be uploaded when I have a stable internet connection.
UPDATE: I've run into one small hitch. The Wireless RF switches that I want to use to replace both hardwire switches (on the Naviks and the Media player) are set up counter intuitive to what I was expecting. For example, when I start the car both switches are in the "on," position and therefore the screen instantly goes to Video 1 (media player mode) rather than the Navigation mode. It's not a huge deal. I just have to click the key fob button to change it back. The headache is that I have to do it every time i start the car. I figure while I have the center console open, why not contact the company that makes the remote and ask them if anything can be done to have the remote units start in "off" position rather than "on" position? I will report back once I have an answer. Otherwise, everything else runs perfectly. Also, a Black Chrome Reverse Licence Plate Camera is on order, so that will top this project off. Pics will be uploaded when I have a stable internet connection.
Last edited by ShawnOk; 06-01-13 at 05:55 PM.
06-03-13, 07:52 PM
#29
Here are some photos of the iSimple, the Media Player, and the RF wireless switch installed. Looks intense, but it's not too bad. Just lots of wires that I didn't feel like cutting. Used twist and zip ties to secure them down afterwards. Much cleaner. You can see the media player in the glove box. Fits perfectly. I also installed the Arion Bluetooth Remote on the side b'c i didn't want to ruin the clean look of the center console, and it's in easy access b'c i usually drive with one hand on the gear shift anyway. Sorry for box of tools, I was away from my own garage today. Also, the RF switch (dubbed Switch A) works with a 2 channel key fob to turn on and off the media player so it's not running full time, so pretty handy.
I'm adding the same type of RF wireless switch (Switch B) to the NAVIKS in the trunk, but have to send back the current one in order to have it wired with a "reverse" relay. My problem was that when car started the switch would be in "open" mode and therefore always puts the car in Media Mode at startup. Then I'd have to use the key fob to change it back to Navigation Mode every time I started the car. Just a small hassle for the common man, but I'm a perfectionist. So I contacted the switch company (http://stores.ebay.com/clickandlights) and the said they just need to add a different type of relay and it will work perfectly. As soon as I get the modified switch, final photos and a video will be up soon. Check out the switch company's page, they have a lot of ingenious wiring ideas, especially for cars.
I'm adding the same type of RF wireless switch (Switch B) to the NAVIKS in the trunk, but have to send back the current one in order to have it wired with a "reverse" relay. My problem was that when car started the switch would be in "open" mode and therefore always puts the car in Media Mode at startup. Then I'd have to use the key fob to change it back to Navigation Mode every time I started the car. Just a small hassle for the common man, but I'm a perfectionist. So I contacted the switch company (http://stores.ebay.com/clickandlights) and the said they just need to add a different type of relay and it will work perfectly. As soon as I get the modified switch, final photos and a video will be up soon. Check out the switch company's page, they have a lot of ingenious wiring ideas, especially for cars.
06-03-13, 09:53 PM
#30
Here are some photos of the iSimple, the Media Player, and the RF wireless switch installed. Looks intense, but it's not too bad. Just lots of wires that I didn't feel like cutting. Used twist and zip ties to secure them down afterwards. Much cleaner. You can see the media player in the glove box. Fits perfectly. I also installed the Arion Bluetooth Remote on the side b'c i didn't want to ruin the clean look of the center console, and it's in easy access b'c i usually drive with one hand on the gear shift anyway. Sorry for box of tools, I was away from my own garage today. Also, the RF switch (dubbed Switch A) works with a 2 channel key fob to turn on and off the media player so it's not running full time, so pretty handy.
I'm adding the same type of RF wireless switch (Switch B) to the NAVIKS in the trunk, but have to send back the current one in order to have it wired with a "reverse" relay. My problem was that when car started the switch would be in "open" mode and therefore always puts the car in Media Mode at startup. Then I'd have to use the key fob to change it back to Navigation Mode every time I started the car. Just a small hassle for the common man, but I'm a perfectionist. So I contacted the switch company (http://stores.ebay.com/clickandlights) and the said they just need to add a different type of relay and it will work perfectly. As soon as I get the modified switch, final photos and a video will be up soon. Check out the switch company's page, they have a lot of ingenious wiring ideas, especially for cars.
I'm adding the same type of RF wireless switch (Switch B) to the NAVIKS in the trunk, but have to send back the current one in order to have it wired with a "reverse" relay. My problem was that when car started the switch would be in "open" mode and therefore always puts the car in Media Mode at startup. Then I'd have to use the key fob to change it back to Navigation Mode every time I started the car. Just a small hassle for the common man, but I'm a perfectionist. So I contacted the switch company (http://stores.ebay.com/clickandlights) and the said they just need to add a different type of relay and it will work perfectly. As soon as I get the modified switch, final photos and a video will be up soon. Check out the switch company's page, they have a lot of ingenious wiring ideas, especially for cars.