Oil Change Procedure for SC430
10-18-12, 03:17 AM
#31
Nice link... that's in another forum... which is in turn a link to an external video... which no longer exists. Good job!
To paraphrase you "Not trying to be mean, but perhaps you should have checked it before posting? Or perhaps you were too lazy?"... paybacks a ***** isn't it
To paraphrase you "Not trying to be mean, but perhaps you should have checked it before posting? Or perhaps you were too lazy?"... paybacks a ***** isn't it
The 4.3 Litre engine is common to a number of Lexus vehicles so you should not restrict searches to your own model.
The process for changing oil is the same for all vehicles as far as I am aware, the only difference is what under trays you need to remove.
As another poster put it rather more bluntly" a monkey could work it out".
10-18-12, 06:47 AM
#32
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Not really Sport. The point was that information can be sourced by search or, god forbid, opening ones wallet and purchasing service manuals (yes I have done so). How many links in this Forum (Club Lexus) are invalid due to age? Do you want to check them all out and update them? Didn't think so.
The 4.3 Litre engine is common to a number of Lexus vehicles so you should not restrict searches to your own model.
The process for changing oil is the same for all vehicles as far as I am aware, the only difference is what under trays you need to remove.
As another poster put it rather more bluntly" a monkey could work it out".
The 4.3 Litre engine is common to a number of Lexus vehicles so you should not restrict searches to your own model.
The process for changing oil is the same for all vehicles as far as I am aware, the only difference is what under trays you need to remove.
As another poster put it rather more bluntly" a monkey could work it out".
I know how to change a car's oil but I am new to the SC430 and simply wanted to see a photo or video of the cover and/or hinged flap I had seen referenced in many posts (because I did in fact search before asking.) I just was hoping for a visual reference before getting under the car.
BTW...I still don't have that.
10-18-12, 08:44 AM
#33
I love visual references before hand as well. I'm lucky in that I have a sloping driveway and so with the car sticking its nose out of the garage I can slide under from the front without jacking, etc. One peak under there and there were no mysteries.
The area you are looking for (to find the oil filter) is slightly off mid-line to the driver's side, toward the front of the engine, just behind the AC compressor (I believe). The screws you need to remove to flex the plastic shroud to gain access to the filter are apparent. I've found that a filter 'socket' cap' and an extension bar make the filter removal job easier than a clamp-type filter wrench (no room to work the handle) or your bare hands (I often change oil while the oil is a little too warm for comfort). The oil pan drain plug is out in the open - no problems there.
Trust me, it is an easy job once you get the room to slide under there.
The area you are looking for (to find the oil filter) is slightly off mid-line to the driver's side, toward the front of the engine, just behind the AC compressor (I believe). The screws you need to remove to flex the plastic shroud to gain access to the filter are apparent. I've found that a filter 'socket' cap' and an extension bar make the filter removal job easier than a clamp-type filter wrench (no room to work the handle) or your bare hands (I often change oil while the oil is a little too warm for comfort). The oil pan drain plug is out in the open - no problems there.
Trust me, it is an easy job once you get the room to slide under there.
10-18-12, 04:10 PM
#35
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I love visual references before hand as well. I'm lucky in that I have a sloping driveway and so with the car sticking its nose out of the garage I can slide under from the front without jacking, etc. One peak under there and there were no mysteries.
The area you are looking for (to find the oil filter) is slightly off mid-line to the driver's side, toward the front of the engine, just behind the AC compressor (I believe). The screws you need to remove to flex the plastic shroud to gain access to the filter are apparent. I've found that a filter 'socket' cap' and an extension bar make the filter removal job easier than a clamp-type filter wrench (no room to work the handle) or your bare hands (I often change oil while the oil is a little too warm for comfort). The oil pan drain plug is out in the open - no problems there.
Trust me, it is an easy job once you get the room to slide under there.
The area you are looking for (to find the oil filter) is slightly off mid-line to the driver's side, toward the front of the engine, just behind the AC compressor (I believe). The screws you need to remove to flex the plastic shroud to gain access to the filter are apparent. I've found that a filter 'socket' cap' and an extension bar make the filter removal job easier than a clamp-type filter wrench (no room to work the handle) or your bare hands (I often change oil while the oil is a little too warm for comfort). The oil pan drain plug is out in the open - no problems there.
Trust me, it is an easy job once you get the room to slide under there.
10-18-12, 05:25 PM
#36
Mobil 1 synthetic - good stuff. Here in the upper midwest I change my oil twice/year regardless of mileage. With all the heating/cooling and moisture condensation from normal ambient temp swings I feel better with fresh oil when the seasons change.
Last edited by kjcole; 10-19-12 at 05:48 AM.
10-18-12, 05:48 PM
#37
Idaho430-
don't waste your money on ramps if you will be doing your work in a garage. It will be dificult to get the car on the ramps even with someone helping guide you. Buy some good 3 ton stands and a good low profile jack with the same rating. I bought ramps 4 years ago tried using them and gave up, now they just sit there collecting dust.
don't waste your money on ramps if you will be doing your work in a garage. It will be dificult to get the car on the ramps even with someone helping guide you. Buy some good 3 ton stands and a good low profile jack with the same rating. I bought ramps 4 years ago tried using them and gave up, now they just sit there collecting dust.
10-18-12, 08:13 PM
#38
Moderator
I would trust a good set of heavy duty jack stands and my 6 ton hydraulic jack way more than the typical set of Rhino ramps I see in stores. If you do get some ramps make sure they are extra heavy duty. Also be aware that you may have to build some pre-ramp boards to put in front of a typical set of ramps to get a low car like the SC started up the ramps. What ever method you use you also need to buy or build a good set of wheel chocks that will stop the car from rolling off the supports. Since I am a belt and suspenders kind of guy I would put a set of jack stands under a car on ramps just in case but that's just me. Having a car come down on your chest while you are under it will ruin your whole day.
10-18-12, 08:37 PM
#39
Mobil 1 synthetic - good stuff. Here in the upper midwest I change my oil twice/year regardless of mileage. With all the heating/cooling and moisture condensation from normal ambient temp swings I feel better with fresh oil to when the weather warms and again when winter comes.
I use AMSoil HDD 5w30 personally. The M1 is a great oil but its not a true synthetic oil. It's a Group III highly refined mineral oil in reality but Mobil are allowed to market it as a synthetic in the US and some other countries.
Don't let that put you off in any way though, it's a great oil, just marketed wrongly after a court case a number of years ago. The original M1 was a a group IV.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil
In reality, there's not much difference performance wise and it will treat your engine well.
10-18-12, 11:09 PM
#40
+1 for the oil change frequency.
I use AMSoil HDD 5w30 personally. The M1 is a great oil but its not a true synthetic oil. It's a Group III highly refined mineral oil in reality but Mobil are allowed to market it as a synthetic in the US and some other countries.
Don't let that put you off in any way though, it's a great oil, just marketed wrongly after a court case a number of years ago. The original M1 was a a group IV.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil
In reality, there's not much difference performance wise and it will treat your engine well.
I use AMSoil HDD 5w30 personally. The M1 is a great oil but its not a true synthetic oil. It's a Group III highly refined mineral oil in reality but Mobil are allowed to market it as a synthetic in the US and some other countries.
Don't let that put you off in any way though, it's a great oil, just marketed wrongly after a court case a number of years ago. The original M1 was a a group IV.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil
In reality, there's not much difference performance wise and it will treat your engine well.
In reality any good full synthetic changed often enough will do the job. Don't believe the BS Amsoil spouts about extended oil changes. Works well only if you do all highway driving. There is no magic to oil. Once the additives are used up (mainly dispersants and detergents) the oil stops protecting your engine. Oil ages by the hour, not the mile. But unless you have an hour meter in your car take the easy way out and change it every 5K-6K miles unless your driving is severe service (stop and go or short trips that cause condensed water in the oil).
I use M1 0W-40 in both my wife's SC430 and my BMW 550i. Meets all European specs and then some. High quality and available at US retailers for US$6.50/quart.
Depends upon your type of driving. The Amsoil 5W-30 is a little too low in the HT/HS spec for me when I run my 550i hard in the desert mountain roads in Arizona. I want an oil that will hold up to high temperature and shear for an extended period. Amsoil makes a good Euro 5W-40 that would do a good job for this application also.
10-19-12, 12:04 AM
#41
Pole Position
+1 to the axle stands & trolley jack over ramps.
And yes, you do need a low profile jack but also check to see how high it will go. Some will only do 300mm/12" which doesn't get you very far. I also found that the smallest trolley jacks have quite a short handle... that can be a pain in the *** if the jack is some way in under the car.
And yes, you do need a low profile jack but also check to see how high it will go. Some will only do 300mm/12" which doesn't get you very far. I also found that the smallest trolley jacks have quite a short handle... that can be a pain in the *** if the jack is some way in under the car.
Last edited by Scarletti; 10-19-12 at 09:43 AM.
10-19-12, 03:11 AM
#42
Not true that Mobil 1 is not a group IV synthetic. That is internet misinformation. You must be an Amsoil distributor mate!
In reality any good full synthetic changed often enough will do the job. Don't believe the BS Amsoil spouts about extended oil changes. Works well only if you do all highway driving. There is no magic to oil. Once the additives are used up (mainly dispersants and detergents) the oil stops protecting your engine. Oil ages by the hour, not the mile. But unless you have an hour meter in your car take the easy way out and change it every 5K-6K miles unless your driving is severe service (stop and go or short trips that cause condensed water in the oil).
I use M1 0W-40 in both my wife's SC430 and my BMW 550i. Meets all European specs and then some. High quality and available at US retailers for US$6.50/quart.
Depends upon your type of driving. The Amsoil 5W-30 is a little too low in the HT/HS spec for me when I run my 550i hard in the desert mountain roads in Arizona. I want an oil that will hold up to high temperature and shear for an extended period. Amsoil makes a good Euro 5W-40 that would do a good job for this application also.
In reality any good full synthetic changed often enough will do the job. Don't believe the BS Amsoil spouts about extended oil changes. Works well only if you do all highway driving. There is no magic to oil. Once the additives are used up (mainly dispersants and detergents) the oil stops protecting your engine. Oil ages by the hour, not the mile. But unless you have an hour meter in your car take the easy way out and change it every 5K-6K miles unless your driving is severe service (stop and go or short trips that cause condensed water in the oil).
I use M1 0W-40 in both my wife's SC430 and my BMW 550i. Meets all European specs and then some. High quality and available at US retailers for US$6.50/quart.
Depends upon your type of driving. The Amsoil 5W-30 is a little too low in the HT/HS spec for me when I run my 550i hard in the desert mountain roads in Arizona. I want an oil that will hold up to high temperature and shear for an extended period. Amsoil makes a good Euro 5W-40 that would do a good job for this application also.
M1 0w40 is not recommended by Mobil for either my SC430 or RX350. 5w30 is what is recommended. The AMSoil 5w30 is HDD which has a HTHS of 3.5 and a TBN of 12.1. It's closer to a 5W40 in reality. This is the Series 3000 I am referring to.
I have PM'd a guy on BITOG who is an authority on Mobil products re Group III/Group IV and I am awaiting his reply. This guy was involved in the development and certification of M1 products and will post his reply when received.
The M1 5W30's specs do not match the AMSoil HDD series 3000 5w30 which is why I use it. I change oil every six months and don't believe in extended OCI's regardless of what ANY oil manufacturer says.
10-19-12, 05:58 AM
#43
+1 on low-profile rolling 'floor jacks' (as they are called in the US) and jack stands. Ramps are meant as a convenience but I've never found them easy to use, and they don't instill confidence. Every one needs a few floor jacks in their garage and a few jack stands or some stout timber blocks!!
As for synthetic oils and lubricants, I have a few million miles on my vehicles (cars, vans, motorcycles) over the years with synthetics exclusively. I buy the name brands, check the service ratings, and take advantage of sales without fretting too much over the particular brand. Have yet to encounter oil-related equipment failures. Knock on wood.
As for synthetic oils and lubricants, I have a few million miles on my vehicles (cars, vans, motorcycles) over the years with synthetics exclusively. I buy the name brands, check the service ratings, and take advantage of sales without fretting too much over the particular brand. Have yet to encounter oil-related equipment failures. Knock on wood.
10-19-12, 06:11 AM
#44
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Where is the optimal jack point to get the front end up in the air? Is it a one side at a time proposition or can the whole front end be lifted smoothly with one jack? Wondering again about this plastic cover under the engine being in the way.
10-19-12, 06:45 AM
#45
Pole Position
One end at a time, I start with the front. Using the center point and then put the axle stands in (I use the side scissor jack points for this)... then do the rear (if needed).
I can't find the SC430 diagram atm (I have a hard copy printed off in my car) but this old SC300/400 shows the idea -> https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att..._793_68711.jpg
I can't find the SC430 diagram atm (I have a hard copy printed off in my car) but this old SC300/400 shows the idea -> https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att..._793_68711.jpg
