Oil Change Procedure for SC430
10-15-12, 09:20 AM
#16
Would not trust just any Lube shop. Would rather that a Toyota dealer at least be the shop.
I prefer to do my oil/fluids simply because you know it was done right. Also gives you the opportunity to check out the underside for some weird things going on. If all clean and seems to be in order, you have the piece of mind. For the ones who does not to bother, take it to your Lexus dealer, enjoy the Starbucks and munch on sweets, bring you Ipad and enjoy the day.
As for supplies, I do synthetic 5W30. Been using Penzoil Platinum, just because I have a ton of them. I do my drain and fill for my tranny T-IV as well, once a year regardless of mileage. It is a weekend driver hence not so much miles. I have had 4 drain and fill so far, with about 1.5 K miles accumulated.
I prefer to do my oil/fluids simply because you know it was done right. Also gives you the opportunity to check out the underside for some weird things going on. If all clean and seems to be in order, you have the piece of mind. For the ones who does not to bother, take it to your Lexus dealer, enjoy the Starbucks and munch on sweets, bring you Ipad and enjoy the day.
As for supplies, I do synthetic 5W30. Been using Penzoil Platinum, just because I have a ton of them. I do my drain and fill for my tranny T-IV as well, once a year regardless of mileage. It is a weekend driver hence not so much miles. I have had 4 drain and fill so far, with about 1.5 K miles accumulated.
10-15-12, 01:12 PM
#17
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Lube Shops - No Way
My experience with Lube shops has been that they utilize cheap filters and oil unless you bring your own or specify what you want. Even then, I wouldn't trust a lube tech who is not very familiar with your brand and model. Even the dealers will sometimes over or under fill your oil crankcase, and they never torque your drain plug. I've watched them and they use the one or two grunt approach to tighten your plug.
Regarding a post where they change oil once a year, again, not a good thing since oil should be changed at least every six months, no matter how many miles you have driven. Changing oil every 3-5K miles with dino or synthetic is the best thing you can do for your car. The manufacturers advise every 10K or more on some vehicles which is BS, since they know the car typically won't see the ill effects of limited oil changes during the warranty, but after the warranty, buyer beware!
Most any gear head will agree with me.
Regarding a post where they change oil once a year, again, not a good thing since oil should be changed at least every six months, no matter how many miles you have driven. Changing oil every 3-5K miles with dino or synthetic is the best thing you can do for your car. The manufacturers advise every 10K or more on some vehicles which is BS, since they know the car typically won't see the ill effects of limited oil changes during the warranty, but after the warranty, buyer beware!
Most any gear head will agree with me.
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Harleygirl (12-26-22)
10-15-12, 05:57 PM
#18
Not sure where you got your info. All new German cars (MB, BMW, Porsche, VW) have a 1 year or 15k miles oil change interval with synthetic oil.
The old school oil change schedule really belongs to the history.
The old school oil change schedule really belongs to the history.
10-15-12, 06:19 PM
#19
I agree with jzwu, best to send your oil for testing to really be sure the effect of time, but time (length) is not really a benchmark for frequency of changes, not anymore. To each his/her own if you want to replace your oil at your desired interval.
Name of the game is efficiency. Lean and eco-friendly. The sign of the times.
Viscosity, temperature are now measurable in real time (or close to it due to sensors and computing power of the on board comp). And contaminants are key to determining degradation of the oil.
Name of the game is efficiency. Lean and eco-friendly. The sign of the times.
Viscosity, temperature are now measurable in real time (or close to it due to sensors and computing power of the on board comp). And contaminants are key to determining degradation of the oil.
10-15-12, 09:22 PM
#22
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Talk with the master techs, don't believe the manufactures BS about 15K miles and one year.
Not sure why you would believe the 15k new guidelines without performing some due diligence rather than believing the marketing hype.
Then again, to each his own!
Last edited by Badbee; 10-15-12 at 09:25 PM.
10-15-12, 10:11 PM
#23
10-16-12, 06:32 AM
#24
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I looked through five pages of posts after searching 'oil change' and didn't see a single image or video posted. I know from reading there is a cover underneath that has to be (partially) removed. Just hoping to get a glimpse of that BEFORE I am laying under the car with tools in hand! 
10-16-12, 07:27 AM
#25
Pole Position
I looked through five pages of posts after searching 'oil change' and didn't see a single image or video posted. I know from reading there is a cover underneath that has to be (partially) removed. Just hoping to get a glimpse of that BEFORE I am laying under the car with tools in hand!
Even on a stock SC430 is pretty tight underneath so you may want to put the front up onto axle stands before you start. Safety first, so do it right.
I'll describe it as you look at the front of the car, and remember my car is a UK right hand drive so it's possible it's the other side but I doubt it... same engines after all. I'm going from memory here...
- The engine compartment has a full sized plastic tray/cover underneath.
- There is a hinged access panel on the RIGHT hand side (as you look at the front).
- It is located just off center and is approx 8-12" square in size.
- The hinge is just part of the moulded plastic, not a real hinge.
- It is secured by three 10mm hex headed screws (Phillips/Cross Head would also do it, but 10mm hex socket is best for torque).
- Once these three screws are removed it will bend down and you can bend it all the way back on itself and secure it with a clamp to keep it out of the way.
Hope this helps. It really is very easy so just get under the car and it's obvious.
10-16-12, 05:23 PM
#26
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...30-2003-a.html
Yes there will be different under trays to remove but this should be self evident.
Not trying to be mean but the same questions come up over and over because Members are too lazy to use Search.
May be this should be in FAQ?
10-16-12, 05:32 PM
#27
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I sympathise with you. Searching for common terms on a forum as large as this pulls up a huge amount of hits. Made even worse by post authors not using a sensible title for a new thread!
Even on a stock SC430 is pretty tight underneath so you may want to put the front up onto axle stands before you start. Safety first, so do it right.
I'll describe it as you look at the front of the car, and remember my car is a UK right hand drive so it's possible it's the other side but I doubt it... same engines after all. I'm going from memory here...
Hope this helps. It really is very easy so just get under the car and it's obvious.
Even on a stock SC430 is pretty tight underneath so you may want to put the front up onto axle stands before you start. Safety first, so do it right.
I'll describe it as you look at the front of the car, and remember my car is a UK right hand drive so it's possible it's the other side but I doubt it... same engines after all. I'm going from memory here...
- The engine compartment has a full sized plastic tray/cover underneath.
- There is a hinged access panel on the RIGHT hand side (as you look at the front).
- It is located just off center and is approx 8-12" square in size.
- The hinge is just part of the moulded plastic, not a real hinge.
- It is secured by three 10mm hex headed screws (Phillips/Cross Head would also do it, but 10mm hex socket is best for torque).
- Once these three screws are removed it will bend down and you can bend it all the way back on itself and secure it with a clamp to keep it out of the way.
Hope this helps. It really is very easy so just get under the car and it's obvious.
Disagree. Took me all of 2 minutes to find a DIY procedure.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...30-2003-a.html
Yes there will be different under trays to remove but this should be self evident.
Not trying to be mean but the same questions come up over and over because Members are too lazy to use Search.
May be this should be in FAQ?
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...30-2003-a.html
Yes there will be different under trays to remove but this should be self evident.
Not trying to be mean but the same questions come up over and over because Members are too lazy to use Search.
May be this should be in FAQ?
I second the idea of the oil change procedure being in the FAQ. That was incidentally the first place I looked!
Last edited by Idaho430; 10-16-12 at 08:09 PM.
10-16-12, 05:34 PM
#28
Pole Position
Disagree. Took me all of 2 minutes to find a DIY procedure.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...30-2003-a.html
Yes there will be different under trays to remove but this should be self evident.
Not trying to be mean but the same questions come up over and over because Members are too lazy to use Search.
May be this should be in FAQ?
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...30-2003-a.html
Yes there will be different under trays to remove but this should be self evident.
Not trying to be mean but the same questions come up over and over because Members are too lazy to use Search.
May be this should be in FAQ?
To paraphrase you "Not trying to be mean, but perhaps you should have checked it before posting? Or perhaps you were too lazy?"... paybacks a ***** isn't it
Last edited by Scarletti; 10-16-12 at 05:38 PM.
10-16-12, 08:12 PM
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Nice link... that's in another forum... which is in turn a link to an external video... which no longer exists. Good job!
To paraphrase you "Not trying to be mean, but perhaps you should have checked it before posting? Or perhaps you were too lazy?"... paybacks a ***** isn't it
To paraphrase you "Not trying to be mean, but perhaps you should have checked it before posting? Or perhaps you were too lazy?"... paybacks a ***** isn't it
Yep...clear as mud!! But, I bet if we weren't so darn lazy we could figure it out somehow.