Discovered the source of the wind noise!
01-02-12, 07:04 PM
#76
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What I did was to raise the window to where it looked correct for the old weatherstrip first. The window was raised to where the old weatherstrip rip could barely close over the top of the window. That way I wouldn't have to worry about damaging the new weatherstripping.
Then I replaced the weatherstripping and raised the window again. The weatherstripping was a little loose around the top of the window, so I loosened the front restraint and bumped the window up just a bit to where the window was just barely starting to stretch the weatherstripping. Then I tightened the restraint back up.
If there is too much slack in the new weatherstripping, loosen up both restraints and bump the window up until it looks right. If the window distorts the weatherstripping, it is too high. The top edge of the weatherstripping should not create more than a slight bump at the top where the window contacts it. If the bump is large, it will wind up tearing the weatherstripping again. (Sorry, I don't know how to be more precise on this, it is kind of a judgement call / gut feeling type of thing.)
Hope that helps.
Then I replaced the weatherstripping and raised the window again. The weatherstripping was a little loose around the top of the window, so I loosened the front restraint and bumped the window up just a bit to where the window was just barely starting to stretch the weatherstripping. Then I tightened the restraint back up.
If there is too much slack in the new weatherstripping, loosen up both restraints and bump the window up until it looks right. If the window distorts the weatherstripping, it is too high. The top edge of the weatherstripping should not create more than a slight bump at the top where the window contacts it. If the bump is large, it will wind up tearing the weatherstripping again. (Sorry, I don't know how to be more precise on this, it is kind of a judgement call / gut feeling type of thing.)
Hope that helps.
When you say weatherstripping, you are talking about the triangle piece, correct?
Also, can you be more specific about this (bolded) information?
If the window rises above the weatherstrippng, the window needs to be lowered or else it will just rip the weatherstripping again. Loosen the 2 bolts pointed to in the pictures below and raise the window to the point where it ought to be. Lower the two stops to the window stops and retighten.[/B] Then check the window position again. (The second two pictures show the stops from the top. They are the white cylindrical pieces between the glass and the door frame in the pictures.)
Thanks!
Last edited by nwcn98; 01-02-12 at 07:05 PM. Reason: spelling
01-02-12, 08:38 PM
#77
What I did was to raise the window to where it looked correct for the old weatherstrip first. The window was raised to where the old weatherstrip rip could barely close over the top of the window. That way I wouldn't have to worry about damaging the new weatherstripping.
Then I replaced the weatherstripping and raised the window again. The weatherstripping was a little loose around the top of the window, so I loosened the front restraint and bumped the window up just a bit to where the window was just barely starting to stretch the weatherstripping. Then I tightened the restraint back up.
If there is too much slack in the new weatherstripping, loosen up both restraints and bump the window up until it looks right. If the window distorts the weatherstripping, it is too high. The top edge of the weatherstripping should not create more than a slight bump at the top where the window contacts it. If the bump is large, it will wind up tearing the weatherstripping again. (Sorry, I don't know how to be more precise on this, it is kind of a judgement call / gut feeling type of thing.)
Hope that helps.
Then I replaced the weatherstripping and raised the window again. The weatherstripping was a little loose around the top of the window, so I loosened the front restraint and bumped the window up just a bit to where the window was just barely starting to stretch the weatherstripping. Then I tightened the restraint back up.
If there is too much slack in the new weatherstripping, loosen up both restraints and bump the window up until it looks right. If the window distorts the weatherstripping, it is too high. The top edge of the weatherstripping should not create more than a slight bump at the top where the window contacts it. If the bump is large, it will wind up tearing the weatherstripping again. (Sorry, I don't know how to be more precise on this, it is kind of a judgement call / gut feeling type of thing.)
Hope that helps.
01-04-12, 10:53 AM
#78
Lead Lap
For starters, thank you for taking the time to explain. I appreciate it. If you don't mind, I do have some more questions...
When you say weatherstripping, you are talking about the triangle piece, correct?
Also, can you be more specific about this (bolded) information?
If the window rises above the weatherstrippng, the window needs to be lowered or else it will just rip the weatherstripping again. Loosen the 2 bolts pointed to in the pictures below and raise the window to the point where it ought to be. Lower the two stops to the window stops and retighten.[/B] Then check the window position again. (The second two pictures show the stops from the top. They are the white cylindrical pieces between the glass and the door frame in the pictures.)
Thanks!
When you say weatherstripping, you are talking about the triangle piece, correct?
Also, can you be more specific about this (bolded) information?
If the window rises above the weatherstrippng, the window needs to be lowered or else it will just rip the weatherstripping again. Loosen the 2 bolts pointed to in the pictures below and raise the window to the point where it ought to be. Lower the two stops to the window stops and retighten.[/B] Then check the window position again. (The second two pictures show the stops from the top. They are the white cylindrical pieces between the glass and the door frame in the pictures.)
Thanks!
The two stops that look like black retangular pieces of rubber are adjusted by loosening the bolts in my first picture that are pointed to in the picture.
I do need to comment on my earlier statement of just bumping one of the stops to bring it up to the proper level. Before reassembling the door, shut the door enough to be able to ensure that the rear top corner of the window goes high enough onto the door weatherstripping. (I'll edit my previous entry.) If it is too low, more wind noise will result. My adjustment wound up resulting with the rear top corner being too low and I'm going to have to reopen it up and raise the rear stop, hopefully this weekend. I'll try to remember to take before and after pictures.
I guess you learn by experience. I'd just rather learn by someone else's experience.
Last edited by Harold57; 01-07-12 at 03:47 PM. Reason: corrected stop/restraint wording
01-07-12, 03:45 PM
#79
Lead Lap
Here are pictures of the corner of the driver's side window before and after the adjustment. You can see in the pictures that there was a gap between the window corner and the previous crease. The gap caused a new wind noise.
Also, I went back and edited my earlier statements and replaced a couple of those pictures with ones with circles and arrows on them. (The white disk is attached to the bottom of the window and the retangular piece of rubber is the adjustable restraint.)
Also, I went back and edited my earlier statements and replaced a couple of those pictures with ones with circles and arrows on them. (The white disk is attached to the bottom of the window and the retangular piece of rubber is the adjustable restraint.)
10-09-12, 07:33 PM
#80
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Florida
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SC 430 Wind noise
Thanks to this forum I was able to correct the wind noise on my 2004 with 19,000 miles on it. The noise was driving me crazy. I changed the weather strip purchased from sewell parts for just $38 plus $5 shipping each side. The information gained through Club Lexus and its members was of great help. The noise is gone and I am again a very happy SC owner.
10-14-12, 05:40 PM
#81
Lead Lap
Welcome to the forum jtk243.
Yes, this forum contains a wealth of information from each "generation" of owners passing it down.
Yes, this forum contains a wealth of information from each "generation" of owners passing it down.
06-18-13, 08:04 PM
#82
I have a 2004 SC430 w/ 30K miles (very pristine condition) . . . same crack on the weather strip and windnoise. It appears that the window/glass does protrude excessively beyond the limit of the weather strip, thus stretching/cracking it. My question is, if I needed to adjust the angle of the glass window only, i.e., tilting, without lowering its overall height, to flush up the corner of the glass that mates up with the weather strip, what is/are the bolt(s) that I would have to loosen to do so. I am familiar with the PDF files in post # 19, so please refer me to the steps/pictures shown there in. Thanks for your help.
Harold57 - I've also sent you a PM. Thanks!
Harold57 - I've also sent you a PM. Thanks!
06-19-13, 10:58 AM
#83
Lead Lap
I have a 2004 SC430 w/ 30K miles (very pristine condition) . . . same crack on the weather strip and windnoise. It appears that the window/glass does protrude excessively beyond the limit of the weather strip, thus stretching/cracking it. My question is, if I needed to adjust the angle of the glass window only, i.e., tilting, without lowering its overall height, to flush up the corner of the glass that mates up with the weather strip, what is/are the bolt(s) that I would have to loosen to do so. I am familiar with the PDF files in post # 19, so please refer me to the steps/pictures shown there in. Thanks for your help.
Harold57 - I've also sent you a PM. Thanks!
Harold57 - I've also sent you a PM. Thanks!
The short answer is that I never tried that adjustment as I don't believe that it will fix the problem. But if you want to experiment with it, more power to you. Maybe you'll find the ultimate fix.
On step 25 of the "front door overhaul instructions", there are three steps to the window adjustment. The first two (a & b) apply to the window angle and the last (c) to the window height.
Step 25a requires adjusting the stud bolts at the bottom of the door to adjust the fitting of the window against the door frame seal (at the top of its travel). If your window already fits against the seal well and doesn't whistle or leak or abnormally deform the seal, I'd leave it alone since it is probably properly adjusted already.
Step 25b requires adjusting the bolts at the top of the door to adjust the fitting of the window against the seal in the door itself (rubber flap that the window slides against on the outside to keep rain from running down inside the door).
Once again, if you don't see problems with the window angle, it is probably okay. If you do make adjustments, be sure to leave yourself notes or marks so that you can return the settings to their original locations.
Good luck and let us know how that goes for you.
Harold
06-22-13, 09:55 PM
#84
SC430 Window Wind Noise Be-gone . . . Gone!!!
Well, started the job last night (Friday night), got through with removing the tweeter grill and the driver's door panel but had to give-in to the North Texas mosquitoes . . . Resumed the job this morning, basically aced it the 1st time; here is how (key steps only . . . door panel & tweeter grill removed) . . .
• Remove the mirror by loosening/removing the 3 bolts that sandwiched the mirror assembly to the door frame (one of the bolts holds the tweeter bracket)
• Reattach the window switch (stowed in the left armrest in normal operating condition) as you will need it to operate the window
• With the glass window fully up, run 2 pieces of masking tape: (1) on the glass window along but slightly below the top trim/seal of the door - see the 1st set of pictures on the left side, and (2) along the top of the seal on the rear window (the one that moves up/down when the convertible top is opened/closed - see the 2nd set of pictures on right side) . . .
• Close the door (be careful not to damage the window switch, or connectors – best to tape them to the door)
• Use a ballpoint pen (thin line, subsequent pictures in the 1st set) to run/mark a curve along and immediately above the top edge of the door seal on the 1st masking tape; and similarly, a line/curve immediately behind the vertical edge of the glass window on the 2nd masking tape that was taped on top of the seal of the rear window mentioned above . . . the idea here is to mark/corner/reference the ORGINAL position of the glass window, should repositioning/lowering of the glass window is needed to avoid the new Weather Strip No. 2 (referred to as Weather Strip, henceforth) from being overstretched to the point where it would eventually crack. It would also help if for whatever reason, I needed to return the glass window to the old position (not preferred since it will be just a matter of time before the same cracking problem happens to the new Weather Strip . . .)
• Lower the glass window all the way to the bottom then loosen the 2 bolts that hold the "front door glass runner" per step 9 in the PDF found in post 19, page 2 (Lexus/Toyota instructions and drawings are really poorly written/translated/depicted - in fact the pictures in step 25 with all the dimensions make little intuitive sense, even for an ME . . .) It would help if you’d go ahead and remove the sub-woofer (4 bolts, one speaker connection) in the door panel to gain access to the runner . . . by the way, attached is the link to a really good pair of sub-woofers for the front doors that I replaced for my SC-430 about 3 years ago . . . they absolutely enhance my stock Mark Levinson . . . (minor mechanical interface going from obround to round – I think round speakers produce much better, more evenly distributed sounds; see the 2nd link in the Forum for how to replace your SC430 speakers in the doors)
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...0Cone%20Woofer
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lex...all-sc430.html
• Remove the old Weather Strip; you will need to remove the top bolt that holds the front window runner (drawing B51973, as shown in step 9 of the PDF in post 19) in order to remove the Weather Strip since it has an anchor wedge that gets sandwiched between the door frame and the top of the window/glass runner (in the bolted down position)
• Slip in the new Weather Strip, be gentle sliding it in top down, make sure the wedge mentioned above gets in the described position (above), then be sure to snap/press down the 2 plastic pins, which are attached within the Weather Strip, into the door frame. Loosely tighten the bolts that hold the front runner (retighten at the end after making sure everything works . . .)
• Raise the glass window all the way up . . . then lower it very slightly in the attempt to "align" the top of the front corner of the glass window to the overlapping/interfacing surface of the Weather Strip (will likely take a few tries) – this distance depends on the severity of the protrusion/extension of the glass window at its interfacing location with the Weather Strip (mine was about 1/4 inch and lowering the glass window by about 1/8 inch at this point was perfect to solve my wind noise problem . . . Note, “align” is technically a misnomer, since there will need to be some protrusion, thus some stretching of the Weather Strip . . . see the rest of the pictures)
• Once a new “ideal” upper stop position is identified, loosen the bolt that holds the front stop bracket (attached to the door; refer to picture B20517 on page 6 in the PDF in post 19) . . . the goal is to lower this front stop bracket (again, the piece that’s attached to the door) to touch the stopper that’s attached to the glass window which has just been lowered to the new “ideal” position to minimize the stretching of the Weather Strip. Once in position, re-tighten the bolt that holds this stop bracket to the door – Your glass window will now stop at this upper position . . .
• I did not mess with the rear stop position (other than tightening it down) for fear that I might create an air gap/wind noise in the back; also there was no need to, since I was trying to limit the stretching of the Weather Strip which is in the front corner of the window!
• Referring to the various pictures . . . on the curves marked on the masking tapes - the lower horizontal curve (on the masking tape stuck on the glass running front-back) indicates the original position of the glass window before the adjustment; and the upper curve indicates the new position after the adjustment was made . . . notice how the gap is wider in the front and gets smaller (to zero) towards the back. This is exactly what I wanted - that is to tilt the glass window (down at the front) to minimize the protrusion/extension of the glass window, thus minimize the stretching of the Weather Strip (in the front) . . . see similarly for the 2nd masking tape – gap at the top, but not at the bottom . . . Again, tilting the glass window down at the front where the Weather Strip is (in the front), keeping the back much in the same original position to avoid inducing air gaps (sources of wind noise)
• Took the car out for a test drive at different speeds (30 – 80 MPH) without the door panel attached (make sure everything is tidy without the door panel and harnesses connected; you can lower the window and reach out to open the door from the outside
. . .) and there was absolutely no more wind noise (did hear some road noise through the door but understandably so since my door panel was off)
• Drove back home, performed some last minute checkups, tightening up the nuts/bolts, reattaching all internal wires, speakers . . . then reinstalled the door panel
• Took the car out again, and the result is sheer phenomenal, it is absolutely as quiet as new, and as quiet as my LS460 (also after its wind noise problem was recently fixed using the JMcRaney’s method for the LS460)
Overall I am very pleased with these fixes and couldn't have done them without the CL Forum - thank you!
Well, started the job last night (Friday night), got through with removing the tweeter grill and the driver's door panel but had to give-in to the North Texas mosquitoes . . . Resumed the job this morning, basically aced it the 1st time; here is how (key steps only . . . door panel & tweeter grill removed) . . .
• Remove the mirror by loosening/removing the 3 bolts that sandwiched the mirror assembly to the door frame (one of the bolts holds the tweeter bracket)
• Reattach the window switch (stowed in the left armrest in normal operating condition) as you will need it to operate the window
• With the glass window fully up, run 2 pieces of masking tape: (1) on the glass window along but slightly below the top trim/seal of the door - see the 1st set of pictures on the left side, and (2) along the top of the seal on the rear window (the one that moves up/down when the convertible top is opened/closed - see the 2nd set of pictures on right side) . . .
• Close the door (be careful not to damage the window switch, or connectors – best to tape them to the door)
• Use a ballpoint pen (thin line, subsequent pictures in the 1st set) to run/mark a curve along and immediately above the top edge of the door seal on the 1st masking tape; and similarly, a line/curve immediately behind the vertical edge of the glass window on the 2nd masking tape that was taped on top of the seal of the rear window mentioned above . . . the idea here is to mark/corner/reference the ORGINAL position of the glass window, should repositioning/lowering of the glass window is needed to avoid the new Weather Strip No. 2 (referred to as Weather Strip, henceforth) from being overstretched to the point where it would eventually crack. It would also help if for whatever reason, I needed to return the glass window to the old position (not preferred since it will be just a matter of time before the same cracking problem happens to the new Weather Strip . . .)
• Lower the glass window all the way to the bottom then loosen the 2 bolts that hold the "front door glass runner" per step 9 in the PDF found in post 19, page 2 (Lexus/Toyota instructions and drawings are really poorly written/translated/depicted - in fact the pictures in step 25 with all the dimensions make little intuitive sense, even for an ME . . .) It would help if you’d go ahead and remove the sub-woofer (4 bolts, one speaker connection) in the door panel to gain access to the runner . . . by the way, attached is the link to a really good pair of sub-woofers for the front doors that I replaced for my SC-430 about 3 years ago . . . they absolutely enhance my stock Mark Levinson . . . (minor mechanical interface going from obround to round – I think round speakers produce much better, more evenly distributed sounds; see the 2nd link in the Forum for how to replace your SC430 speakers in the doors)
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...0Cone%20Woofer
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lex...all-sc430.html
• Remove the old Weather Strip; you will need to remove the top bolt that holds the front window runner (drawing B51973, as shown in step 9 of the PDF in post 19) in order to remove the Weather Strip since it has an anchor wedge that gets sandwiched between the door frame and the top of the window/glass runner (in the bolted down position)
• Slip in the new Weather Strip, be gentle sliding it in top down, make sure the wedge mentioned above gets in the described position (above), then be sure to snap/press down the 2 plastic pins, which are attached within the Weather Strip, into the door frame. Loosely tighten the bolts that hold the front runner (retighten at the end after making sure everything works . . .)
• Raise the glass window all the way up . . . then lower it very slightly in the attempt to "align" the top of the front corner of the glass window to the overlapping/interfacing surface of the Weather Strip (will likely take a few tries) – this distance depends on the severity of the protrusion/extension of the glass window at its interfacing location with the Weather Strip (mine was about 1/4 inch and lowering the glass window by about 1/8 inch at this point was perfect to solve my wind noise problem . . . Note, “align” is technically a misnomer, since there will need to be some protrusion, thus some stretching of the Weather Strip . . . see the rest of the pictures)
• Once a new “ideal” upper stop position is identified, loosen the bolt that holds the front stop bracket (attached to the door; refer to picture B20517 on page 6 in the PDF in post 19) . . . the goal is to lower this front stop bracket (again, the piece that’s attached to the door) to touch the stopper that’s attached to the glass window which has just been lowered to the new “ideal” position to minimize the stretching of the Weather Strip. Once in position, re-tighten the bolt that holds this stop bracket to the door – Your glass window will now stop at this upper position . . .
• I did not mess with the rear stop position (other than tightening it down) for fear that I might create an air gap/wind noise in the back; also there was no need to, since I was trying to limit the stretching of the Weather Strip which is in the front corner of the window!
• Referring to the various pictures . . . on the curves marked on the masking tapes - the lower horizontal curve (on the masking tape stuck on the glass running front-back) indicates the original position of the glass window before the adjustment; and the upper curve indicates the new position after the adjustment was made . . . notice how the gap is wider in the front and gets smaller (to zero) towards the back. This is exactly what I wanted - that is to tilt the glass window (down at the front) to minimize the protrusion/extension of the glass window, thus minimize the stretching of the Weather Strip (in the front) . . . see similarly for the 2nd masking tape – gap at the top, but not at the bottom . . . Again, tilting the glass window down at the front where the Weather Strip is (in the front), keeping the back much in the same original position to avoid inducing air gaps (sources of wind noise)
• Took the car out for a test drive at different speeds (30 – 80 MPH) without the door panel attached (make sure everything is tidy without the door panel and harnesses connected; you can lower the window and reach out to open the door from the outside
. . .) and there was absolutely no more wind noise (did hear some road noise through the door but understandably so since my door panel was off)• Drove back home, performed some last minute checkups, tightening up the nuts/bolts, reattaching all internal wires, speakers . . . then reinstalled the door panel
• Took the car out again, and the result is sheer phenomenal, it is absolutely as quiet as new, and as quiet as my LS460 (also after its wind noise problem was recently fixed using the JMcRaney’s method for the LS460)
Overall I am very pleased with these fixes and couldn't have done them without the CL Forum - thank you!
Last edited by MyLS460; 06-23-13 at 10:59 AM.
06-23-13, 12:40 PM
#85
Lead Lap
Nice job MyLS460. I'm glad you got the noise eliminated.
Last edited by Harold57; 06-23-13 at 12:44 PM.
07-01-13, 03:14 PM
#86
My driver's side is starting to rip. Still in one piece though. I would rather fix it before it gets any worse. I'd rather repair it with something for now then replace the entire piece when it's totally ripped and then I can adjust the window height and slope when I have to take apart the door panel all at the same time. I'm not sure what to do. What do you think my plan of attack should be? Permatex? Liquid Electrical Tape? No one ever posted any follow up photos of those fixes, so not sure how it looks. Any advice is really appreciated. Thanks.
Last edited by ShawnOk; 07-01-13 at 03:18 PM.
07-03-13, 07:58 AM
#87
My driver's side is starting to rip. Still in one piece though. I would rather fix it before it gets any worse. I'd rather repair it with something for now then replace the entire piece when it's totally ripped and then I can adjust the window height and slope when I have to take apart the door panel all at the same time. I'm not sure what to do. What do you think my plan of attack should be? Permatex? Liquid Electrical Tape? No one ever posted any follow up photos of those fixes, so not sure how it looks. Any advice is really appreciated. Thanks.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lex...all-sc430.html
07-08-13, 09:06 PM
#88
I'd go for the real fix - quiet peace of mind, if you will. I think you can do it all, being careful, in about 1-2 hours. Suggest that you'd read the Forum instructions on how to remove the door panel using the link below and the various notes on how to adjust the slope (as you call it) of the glass - again, I would not mess with the rear stopper location. Good luck!
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lex...all-sc430.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lex...all-sc430.html
PS. use a small arts and crafts paintbrush rather then the built in applicator brush. Allows you to have more precision and create less mess.
Last edited by ShawnOk; 07-08-13 at 09:09 PM.
07-09-13, 12:20 AM
#89
Currently, I'm really tapped for cash. I'm holding my funds for my Clear Side Markers Project, but for the moment the Liquid Tape has worked and it's not much of an eyesore. I bought it from Home Depot for about $5 (i think), and it's holding up pretty well so far. In the future if it continues to rip apart, then I will open it up, adjust the window slope, and replace it when I do the speaker swap. For now, I'm happy with the results. Here are some photos for anyone that might need to go down the same road so you will know what to expect. I had to wait about 10 minutes between layers. I did about 4 layers and used wax paper to line the inside area that the glass would touch.
PS. use a small arts and crafts paintbrush rather then the built in applicator brush. Allows you to have more precision and create less mess.
PS. use a small arts and crafts paintbrush rather then the built in applicator brush. Allows you to have more precision and create less mess.
This might be a solution for any fixes or tear with the rubber. I will be trying it soon! I FOUND THIS IN ANOTHER FORUM AFTER SEARCHING FOR AWHILE> I DONOT TAKE ANY CREDIT FOR THIS METHOD!!!
_______________________________!!!!
I thought I was screwed because I had let my issue grow from a 3 inch tear to a 2.5 foot tear running up the entire piece of rubber because of all the door action/wear/rub everytime I get in and out. at least $200 to replace at dealership, right?
anyways, I tried contact cement (two different kinds) and epoxy. Both failed. I was about to try silicone (which would have been extremely cumbersome because of drying/positioning), when I read the following article by MythBusters on popular mechanics .com about glues:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/scie...41.html?page=1
I was able to fix the tear PERFECTLY... and the tear had missing pieces and gaps, etc.
so I first started by using super glue in the 'flush' areas of the tear.. so it was kind of sporatic contact/gluing because of all the wear... then I used the MythBuster technique of BAKING SODA.
after letting all the main glue sections (that were clean tears) dry, I then took baking soda and filled in all the gaps (loosely). I then took the super glue and re applied it over the baking soda sections. What happens is the baking soda soaks up the super glue and INSTANTANEOUSLY 'kicks' or solidifies.. filling in the gap(s). For some gaps I had to reapply some more baking soda because the first time was only partially filled (hard to keep it in place when there is a hole and baking soda is a powder). You have a split second to press any baking soda areas down to make better contact but hopefully you are only filling in gaps where the rubber is missing at this point. I even sprinkled a little baking soda over the flush contact joints just to be sure...Overall, it took me about 30minutes total, and it is completely sealed/cured and there are no gaps, tears, holes, etc. I will post pictures later
if you are wondering... cracks filled with baking soda and super glue are not WHITE... but are almost translucent grey. The next step is to blend in the major crack repairs with the flush areas. I haven't actually done the whole tear yet because I didn't have time, but I am using a product called PLASTIDIP (black) to touch up the repaired areas and it matches the rubber weatherstripping perfectly, because it is rubber itself (already tried a test area). I was thinking about silicone instead... but I thought that may end up more shiny then the actual weather stripping
ps. be sure to wear powder coated gloves. They don't stick much with the super glue, and the powder helps prevent the super glue from looking glossy if you make any mistakes... just wipe the excess a couple times with a non-used finger of your glove.
If you have just flush cuts or slices I would recommend applying just superglue to your slice and do it very carefully without excess dripping when you push together. it will work much better than silicone (which doesn't hold as well)... and if you need to, apply a little baking soda so it instantly cures. Because sometime superglue just sits there and never bonds because it doesn't like the two materials... looks like baking soda forces it to do its job
enjoy! http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=556839
11-22-14, 11:52 AM
#90
Driver School Candidate
wind noise
I have the same problem. I referred to an old post. I did not read all replies.
The owner used "Liquid Tape" from Lowes to fix the problem. Liquid tape is a flexible rubber product. The owner put some blue masking tape on the top edge of the window where the split is located and coated the split with the liquid tape.
I have not tried the repair yet but it seems like an inexpensive fix if out of warranty.
The owner used "Liquid Tape" from Lowes to fix the problem. Liquid tape is a flexible rubber product. The owner put some blue masking tape on the top edge of the window where the split is located and coated the split with the liquid tape.
I have not tried the repair yet but it seems like an inexpensive fix if out of warranty.
