3.76 Supra LSD Differential DIY -- SC430--
01-26-10, 09:52 PM
#1
3.76 Supra LSD Differential DIY -- SC430--
So I have been looking for ways to make my SC a little bit quicker and I came across a really good deal. I found a differential off of a 1995 Toyota Supra (auto, worm gear type torsen 3.76) with really low miles (35 K), the bad part was that it had been sitting in a junkyard for a good 8-10 years. As soon as I picked it up I began ordering new parts, I changed every seal, bearing, shim, dust shield, breather plug, and all bolts and misc hardware. After all was said and done I pretty much had a brand new diff, granted it took a little longer and cost more than I expected I am very happy with the outcome.
The car feels so much more responsive off the line, and that lag all the SC owners complain about is now non existent. Once you punch it the car breaks loose for only a second then takes off like a bat outta hell, through the gears the car feels livelier as it revs up effortlessly and shifts without hitting the rev limiter. Cruising at freeway speeds (80mph) puts the rpm’s at 3K, which is tolerable and I really haven’t had a chance to document my gas mileage. According to the fellow members you can expect a 1-3 mile per gallon decrease in MPG.
Installation wasn’t too hard.
For the average mechanic I would rate this a 6 out of 10. Took me about 3-4 hours.
Remove rear exhaust (mufflers) 14mm
Remove mid pipe (silencers) 14mm there is a brace that also needs to be removed to access the front bolts.
Remove metal heat shield (above the mufflers) 4 bolts 10mm
Remove chassis bracing 2 metal pieces one on each side of the car 12MM
Remove 2 smaller metal braces 14MM
Remove drive shaft shield, a thin piece of metal covering the drive shaft. 4 10mm bolts
Loosen but do not completely remove the 6 bolts that connect each axle shaft to diff.
There are a total of 12 bolts, 6 on each side and they use a 10mm Allen key
Remove drive shaft bolts, only remove the 3 bolts that are holding the differential in, do not remove the other 3 bolts. You will need a 17mm wrench and socket, or just two wrenches.
So now you have all the bolts that connect the diff to your drive line disconnected, next you have to remove the 5 bolts that are holding the actual diff in place.
Loosen but do not remove the 3 rear hex bolts; you will need a T-60 hex type socket.
Loosen the 2 (19mm) bolts on the wings/arms/ears that are holding the diff up.
Once you have broken the bolts loose then slide a jack under the diff and make sure the jack is able to safely and evenly lower the diff.
Once the jack is in place and you have raised it enough to take support the weight of the diff you can proceed to remove all 3 rear hex bolts, along with the 2 main 19mm bolts.
Now that all the bolts are removed you can carefully begin to lower the diff out from underneath the car.
Carefully and slowly let the diff drop, making sure it does not snag any of the lines/wires or other pieces present in the area.
Once the old diff is out make sure the new diff is filled with fluid, tighten all the bolts, check all the mounting points on the new diff to make sure none are plugged/broken/or damaged.
Once everything looks good bolt that sucker back up. Everything should be a direct easy swap, there are no modifications, alterations needed just reverse exactly what you did while removing the diff.
Last step take her for a drive and ENJOY!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The car feels so much more responsive off the line, and that lag all the SC owners complain about is now non existent. Once you punch it the car breaks loose for only a second then takes off like a bat outta hell, through the gears the car feels livelier as it revs up effortlessly and shifts without hitting the rev limiter. Cruising at freeway speeds (80mph) puts the rpm’s at 3K, which is tolerable and I really haven’t had a chance to document my gas mileage. According to the fellow members you can expect a 1-3 mile per gallon decrease in MPG.
Installation wasn’t too hard.
For the average mechanic I would rate this a 6 out of 10. Took me about 3-4 hours.
Remove rear exhaust (mufflers) 14mm
Remove mid pipe (silencers) 14mm there is a brace that also needs to be removed to access the front bolts.
Remove metal heat shield (above the mufflers) 4 bolts 10mm
Remove chassis bracing 2 metal pieces one on each side of the car 12MM
Remove 2 smaller metal braces 14MM
Remove drive shaft shield, a thin piece of metal covering the drive shaft. 4 10mm bolts
Loosen but do not completely remove the 6 bolts that connect each axle shaft to diff.
There are a total of 12 bolts, 6 on each side and they use a 10mm Allen key
Remove drive shaft bolts, only remove the 3 bolts that are holding the differential in, do not remove the other 3 bolts. You will need a 17mm wrench and socket, or just two wrenches.
So now you have all the bolts that connect the diff to your drive line disconnected, next you have to remove the 5 bolts that are holding the actual diff in place.
Loosen but do not remove the 3 rear hex bolts; you will need a T-60 hex type socket.
Loosen the 2 (19mm) bolts on the wings/arms/ears that are holding the diff up.
Once you have broken the bolts loose then slide a jack under the diff and make sure the jack is able to safely and evenly lower the diff.
Once the jack is in place and you have raised it enough to take support the weight of the diff you can proceed to remove all 3 rear hex bolts, along with the 2 main 19mm bolts.
Now that all the bolts are removed you can carefully begin to lower the diff out from underneath the car.
Carefully and slowly let the diff drop, making sure it does not snag any of the lines/wires or other pieces present in the area.
Once the old diff is out make sure the new diff is filled with fluid, tighten all the bolts, check all the mounting points on the new diff to make sure none are plugged/broken/or damaged.
Once everything looks good bolt that sucker back up. Everything should be a direct easy swap, there are no modifications, alterations needed just reverse exactly what you did while removing the diff.
Last step take her for a drive and ENJOY!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by Lexiss_sc430; 01-26-10 at 09:57 PM.
01-26-10, 10:04 PM
#5
yes they do, the car feels amazing. I have been looking for one of these for so long, its like trying to strike gold, no one has them and the people who do want a small fortune. But if it wasn't for all your modifications and documentation of your mods I would not be where I am today, thank you for all the pointers and DIY you posted for us!
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01-28-10, 12:21 AM
#9
06-06-10, 10:24 PM
#11
did your driveshaft flange match the flange on the LSD?
the reason i ask is because im trying to swap an LSD in my sc300 and the rubber flange on the driveshaft is smaller than the flange on the supra LSD
does anyone happen to know the length of the sc430 driveshaft?
the reason i ask is because im trying to swap an LSD in my sc300 and the rubber flange on the driveshaft is smaller than the flange on the supra LSD
does anyone happen to know the length of the sc430 driveshaft?
