3.76 Supra LSD Differential DIY -- SC430--
03-15-15, 08:39 PM
#31
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Ok I saw on YouTube the differential removal on a SC300 and the axles just pop out when the diff is lowered. I completely dropped the differential and it kept hanging on the axles. So after 11 years mine are pretty tight so I'm going to going to apply WD40 overnight and see if that helps ...
Rats, didn't get here on time to make a off colored joke
. But yeah, the axles with pop right out after the bolts are taken out. I've done two now and it's getting to be pretty easy. Just need something sturdy to support the carrier while you're undoing everything.
03-17-15, 09:22 PM
#32
Differential out
With some Blaster rust penetrator and a 3 lbs dead blow hammer I got the axles free by turning the wheels and whacking the axle-differential joint. The penetrating liquid was applied over night.
Last edited by SlvBullet; 03-18-15 at 03:54 PM.
03-17-15, 09:32 PM
#33
The driveshaft was also stuck to the differential so I used a long pry bar to break it free. I will sand and paint the axle ends to keep them from binding. Of course no paint on the end that gores into the differential. Here's the old OEM and replacement Supra TT 3.77/LSD differential.
Note lack of heat dispersion fins on the OEM differential. The SC300 however has a differential design similar to the Supra with fins but not as large. The Supra TT differential has shallow fins on the top too.
Supra TT Differential has new performance bushings from Figs Engineering.
Note lack of heat dispersion fins on the OEM differential. The SC300 however has a differential design similar to the Supra with fins but not as large. The Supra TT differential has shallow fins on the top too.
Supra TT Differential has new performance bushings from Figs Engineering.
Last edited by SlvBullet; 03-18-15 at 03:55 PM.
03-17-15, 09:39 PM
#34
Next step - rear bushing upgrade
To go with the new pinion ear bushings I will also upgrade the rear bushings with performance bushings from Figs Engineering.
The OEM bushings have a metal outer casing which of course has rusted to the chassis so Blaster Penetrator again and I'll try with the dead blow hammer again tomorrow.
The OEM bushings have a metal outer casing which of course has rusted to the chassis so Blaster Penetrator again and I'll try with the dead blow hammer again tomorrow.
Last edited by SlvBullet; 03-18-15 at 03:55 PM. Reason: included picture
03-18-15, 06:03 AM
#36
Lexus Test Driver
Wow, good work Greg! This mod looks like ALOT of work for DIY. You must be driving another car in the interim. We are all eager to hear how it turns out. Then you can do mine :-)
03-18-15, 04:05 PM
#37
Thank. This is 3.77 LSD differential off a 1996 Supra TT Automatic I bought from a shipment straight from Japan. Was in great condition but I opened and inspected, cleaned up, resealed with the Toyota black FIPG, polished the Al cover, filled with Amsoil Severe Gear Differential fluid SAE 75W-110 with a bit of lubricating additive (the additive was probably overkill because there are no friction plates). I guess the paint and polished cover is a bit like Victoria's secret given that you can barely see it but it makes me happy 
03-18-15, 04:13 PM
#38
I had to remove the rear chassis support and the rear sway bar - spent more time thinking about it than actually doing it. There a several tricks I will post when I'm finished for other mechanic wannabees like me ... Not a hard DIY if you have all the tools and know the tricks to save time.
I still have no movement from the rear bushings
with three applications of the Blaster Penetration juice and lot of dead blows - I'll try a different angle tonight.
03-19-15, 09:41 PM
#41
Wow these rear bushings are really stuck. I tried a C bushing tool no progress. So I am starting to cut them out. I started with the passenger side and used a coping saw to cut out the rubber center. It's a oil filled buching with oil pockets on the top and bottom - rather messy. Then started to cut the metal bushing rim with a Dremel metal cutting disk. Got in trouble with the wife for burning rubber ... Made progress and used up a cutting disk. The cut edges will not even bend with chisel and 3 lbs hammer so I have a lot of cutting to go. This may take a bit ...
03-21-15, 10:12 PM
#42
Success - rear subframe diff bushings out
It was a long day but I finaly got the rear differential bushings out! . No torch per warning from Mike at Figs - Thanks Mike. Mike suggested cutting the edges of the bushings and bending them over and hammering. I used my Dremel with a cutting wheel to cut the metal edge and a blunt chisel and large, long, standard screwdriver. I also used vice grips to help start the bend until I could bend more with the chisel and hammer. The passenger side bushing has thicker metal than the driver side. I had removed the metal mounting plate yesterday from the passenger side bushing so it was a bit faster. After much pounding it started to move and popped out. The driver side bushing doesn't have the oil filled areas but thicker rubber and the lip on the rear side is very thin and difficult to raise. After much cutting, pounding, bending the driver's side bushing finally came out.
. No torch per warning from Mike at Figs - Thanks Mike. Mike suggested cutting the edges of the bushings and bending them over and hammering. I used my Dremel with a cutting wheel to cut the metal edge and a blunt chisel and large, long, standard screwdriver. I also used vice grips to help start the bend until I could bend more with the chisel and hammer. The passenger side bushing has thicker metal than the driver side. I had removed the metal mounting plate yesterday from the passenger side bushing so it was a bit faster. After much pounding it started to move and popped out. The driver side bushing doesn't have the oil filled areas but thicker rubber and the lip on the rear side is very thin and difficult to raise. After much cutting, pounding, bending the driver's side bushing finally came out.
03-21-15, 10:16 PM
#43
Next, cleaning and reassembly
Started with rust removal and repainting some of the removed pieces: rear member support bars from Ltune, chassis support piece, and Dr. Gas mufflers. My daughter helped with the rust removal and painting, and also polished the SS exhaust tips.
Last edited by SlvBullet; 03-21-15 at 10:19 PM. Reason: Added picture
03-21-15, 10:24 PM
#44
More rust removal - grinded the rust off the axle cups that connect to the differential. After assembly will paint with black caliper paint. Also cleaned the rubber face of the large connector between the drive shaft and the differential (after picture was taken). Assembly tomorrow 
03-22-15, 06:34 AM
#45
greg
did you finish the rear end? if so how do you like it must make a difference. they are the best road gears setup. I used 4.88 in the Vett but that's out there not for street use track only but I did go on the street sometimes for a ride. when I sold the Vett. had 5600 on the clock.
did you finish the rear end? if so how do you like it must make a difference. they are the best road gears setup. I used 4.88 in the Vett but that's out there not for street use track only but I did go on the street sometimes for a ride. when I sold the Vett. had 5600 on the clock.
Last edited by bacardi11; 03-22-15 at 06:51 AM.