scdroptop

iTrader: (1)

I thought I would share this nice article from Park Place Lexus based in Plano, Tx. Some interesting points...I learned a few things. Maybe someone will too

Enjoy!

http://www.imakenews.com/parkplacele...s65fw,bgs4d1b0

In case the link doesn't work:

Washing, Polishing and Waxing 101
Proper paint maintenance can dramatically extend the life – and looks – of your car’s paint.

Don’t be alarmed, but the environment has declared war on your car – more specifically, on your car’s paint. If you live near a major city, then the finish on your vehicle is coming under constant attack from atmospheric pollutants, whether they are from tailpipe emissions, factory smokestacks or even oil-burning stoves in your neighborhood. If you live out in the country, then you have to deal with acid rain, tree sap, pollen and most likely rocks and gravel kicked up on the road.

It’s clear that as the first line of defense when it comes to protecting your car’s bodywork from rust, corrosion and wear, any steps you can take to protect your paint will not only add years to the lifespan of your vehicle, they will add to your vehicle’s value as well. Well-maintained paint can often be the difference between a vehicle’s condition being appraised as “excellent,” or as merely average” or “fair” – a difference that can mean thousands of dollars when trading in or selling your car in the future.

The first step when it comes to protecting your paint is to adopt proper and regular washing habits; frequent cleaning gives contaminants less time to sit there and work on degrading your paint. Ideally, hand washing is the best way to keep your vehicle spotless, but, in a pinch, a touchless carwash will also do. Above all else, make sure to avoid touch car washes, as the bristles and foam strips used in these contraptions are capable of leaving thousands of tiny scratches on your paint, scratches that are especially visible on dark colored cars in the sunlight.

If you choose to hand wash your car, you should make sure to take the appropriate steps to maintain your paint’s shine. Ignore the old wive’s tale telling you to use dish soap as a car cleaner, as the harsh detergents found in these products can gradually wear away at your paint. Instead, buy an inexpensive soap at your local big box store that is specifically formulated for use on vehicles. It’s also important to make sure that you use a soft wash mitt – not a sponge, which can collect small rocks that can scratch your paint – and frequently rinse it off in between soapings to make sure it is free from dirt. Another tip is to avoid using a swirling motion when washing or drying, and to dry using only a microfiber cloth and not a standard house or beach towel, which contain harsh synthetic fibers. This will help you to avoid creating “spider web”-type scratches that can be so frustrating on an otherwise clean car.

After washing, there are two additional steps you can take to make sure your paint looks its best and stays that way for as long as possible. The first is to use automotive paint polish, which can not only bring out the brightness and richness of the vehicle’s original showroom sheen, but can also take care of scratches both large and small. A good rule of thumb is that if you can catch your fingernail when running it across the scratch, it is probably too deep to polish out; if you can pass over it, then it can most likely be removed with a little bit of elbow grease. Polish is generally best applied with a random-orbit buffer, an inexpensive piece of equipment that isn’t powerful enough to damage your paint but can save you a lot of time when working out paint issues. If you are nervous about using this type of equipment, then hand polishing is still a viable option.

Waxing is the final stage in the cleaning and protecting process. When properly applied, wax forms a physical barrier between your paint and the outside world, which means that contaminants like sap and acid rain never make it through to the finish itself. Wax can even offer a degree of protection from rock chips. There are two main types of wax available on the market. Carnauba-based waxes are derived from special palm tree leaves, and they provide a deep, “wet” look. Polymer waxes or sealants use a different mechanism to bond to paint, and while they do not usually provide as impressive a gloss as carnauba products, they do last a lot longer before they need to be reapplied.

Washing, polishing and waxing your car not only helps it to look its absolute best, it also offers you the chance to lock in a beautiful paint shine no matter what the world might throw at your car.

Yes

The one thing I would add to this is to NOT use a microfiber cloth. I used them for about a year until I read somewhere that they are actually pretty abrasive. If you have a shiny piece of plastic you don't care about, rub it with a microfiber cloth then look at it angled in the light. You'll see thousands of tiny scratches. They're great at soaking up water. But not as good for your clear coat as a good old fashioned terry cloth towel.

VVTiBob

There is a whole lot of debate regarding MF vs. Cotton. Here is one thought. When I use MF towels I go through five or six before I'm finished, if you'll pardon the pun.

Yes

i did a quick search and came across this. looks like microfiber cotton towels are ideal. but i'd stay away from polyester.

(100%) Cotton Towels:
Micro fibre by definition (very small; involving minute quantities or variations) is not a fabric; but a yarn, that’s spun into thread, which is then used to weave a terry fabric. These ultra-fine yarns (2X as fine as silk and 100X finer than a human hair) are made form various sources, they can be made from many different materials, such as Micro fiber (Polyester / Polyamide) or a natural material such as cellulose (100% cotton) a plant carbohydrate.

This detailing towel is made entirely of a blend of micro fibre cotton and pima cotton, 100% Cotton (50% Cotton Microfiber/50% Pima Cotton) Its scratch resistance has a lot to do with the way the fibres are processed and spun, there are too many factors to be able to say conclusively that natural fibres will not cause scratches and artificial fibres will. In my opinion, however, natural fibres are far less likely to scratch, flannel or cotton flannel is a very tight weave and it could scratch as it mats down easily, always try to stay with a terrycloth weave.

Theses cotton towels are exceptionally soft, super absorbent terrycloth. The fabric is woven from a blend of micro fibre cotton and Pima Cotton; no artificial fibres of any kind are used in the weaving or sewing of this product. But pay attention to the edge bindings as they can be a potential cause of surface scratches Quality towels edge bindings are sewn with cotton thread, not polyester. (For more information on cotton) -http://www.supima.com/faq/index.htm

The smaller the diameter of the yarn, the softer the fabric will feel, however this does not mean that its non-abrasive and will not cause scratches (this softness can also be chemically induced) The most important criteria for any fabric used on a vehicle surface is its quality and scratch resistance.
Natural cellulose can be spun with long staple cotton and then woven into 100% natural looped terrycloth or velour, were the loops are trimmed to produce a fine nap (ideal for glass cleaning). This is very soft, absorbent, and non-abrasive and will not cause scratching.

Once this type of fabric is washed two or three times, to remove any short fibres it will not leave a lint trail. The principal structural chemical in cotton, wood, and most other plants is actually cellulose consisting of many small molecules linked together (monomers) in a chain or lattice like structure; both linen and cotton are natural plant fibres. Quality towels edge bindings are sewn with cotton thread, not polyester.

Regardless of material type or quality, a dirty micro fibre, or a 100% Cotton towel will scratch, Micro fibre has attractant properties, that is dirt, dust, and various other substances cling to it, which is one of the reasons that it works so well, but it is also a reason why you need to be extra careful when using towels on your paint

scdroptop

iTrader: (1)

nice info....I'll have to check the material on my orange $5.00 microfiber towels I buy at Target. I love them, but I have a funny feeling they might be the bad ones

Yes

i have one high quality cotton microfiber towel. but i only used it once because it sheds. think i'll run it through the wash a few times and start using that from now on.

jimmer!

I've read the same scratchy things about synthetic microfiber towels (after I bought a bunch).
I did a search and found a detailing specialty site that offers well priced cotton microfiber towels.

Any one else have a reliable, inexpensive source?

Medium-Small 17 x 17 inches $6.15 (from my search, this is a good price)

http://www.dftowel.com/ordertowels.html

TooCoolSC

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/..._Code=Z-BBFT-3

jimmer!

just bought a 17x17 6-pack.
I'll let you know how they work.

evlway

I have noticed that in a car that is 3 or 4 years old, the rubber seals and baskets between the parts of the car, i.e. windshield, convertible top, windows, etc. start to take on a grayish appearance. Does anyone have an oil or polish or something that will make those look more like new?

robsvdp

I use Aerospace 303 (google it). I use it on the dash and tires too, great stuff.

jimmer!

ditto on the aerospace 303.
I picked it up from a forum recommendation.
it treats/protects all plastics, rubber, synth materials.
not the cheapest or easiest to find -- just the best, most advanced.
hi-tech stuff that has no equal.

iolmaster

iTrader: (1)

First, cotton is not a microfiber. Check your Denier count. It has to be 1 or below to be considered microfiber. Cotton is no where close to that. Cotton microfiber is just marketing. Second, it is hard to believe that a microfiber cloth is damaging your paint. There are a number of companies that sell clay bar kits that include them in the kit. I've used them for years and have never noticed that the cloth damaged the paint. These companies certainly wouldn't include a towel that damages paint. If your paint is getting damaged, look somewhere else.

Yes

the first time i noticed it was when i tried to polish my ipod screen. i had an old video ipod that was pretty scratched up from use. i searched google and someone recommended using a cd repair kit to remove the scratches. so i tried it and used a microfiber cloth to polish the screen. it worked really well for the most part. but when i held it up the the light, i saw thousands of tiny scratches all in the direction i was polishing. so i searched "microfiber abrasive" and sure enough, there's a lot of evidence out there that polyester microfiber towels are in fact abrasive. not that i really needed any more proof after seeing it with my own two eyes. i used a cotton cloth to re-polish my ipod and it got most of the scratches out, but not completely.

gentouru

Great info to revive. I have some questions.

1. the difference between touch car washes and touchless car wash.
2. should I use cotton microfiber to wash, dry, polish, and wax.
3. what is a good wax brand to use that is carnauba based
4. what is a good polish brand to use
5. I read that some people use aerospace protectant for their tires and paint, anyone tried this?