CenterIsl

I added on to the CS install thread, didn't see a response...

The car I bought 2 weeks ago came with the Tein CS (older style) shocks. I got the two height adjustment wrenches, but not the hex wrench. Looking at the front, a 2.5mm hex wrench fits just fine through the Tom's STB. The rears, however are another issue entirely...

I can see that there's some kind of shield around the top of the shock, held on apparently by 3 or 4 fasteners (self-tapping machine screws? bolts?). My question is...if I remove the rear wheels, and remove these shields, will that give me access to the tops of the shocks? I don't need visual access (I'm assuming they're identical to the fronts), simply room to insert a small hex wrench and turn it (fortunately, I have small hands).

I'm really, really hoping that it's not more involved than this (I have seen mention of cutting a hole in the trunk sheet metal - I'd really like to avoid that!).

rominl

iTrader: (4)

the only way to access the dampening adjustment is to take out ALL the trunk lining to gain access to the top of the shock. unfortunately, that's the only way. you should see it as soon as you take out the lining.

CenterIsl

[QUOTE=rominl;3161727]the only way to access the dampening adjustment is to take out ALL the trunk lining.../QUOTE]

Which means...pull back the carpet lining from where it wraps around the fenders up to the sides of the trunk lid? Is that what you mean by trunk lining? And then...what, glue it back down with spray contact cement?

There must be more...a removable cap on top of the shock tower?

Or do you mean something else by "trunk lining"?

talwang

iTrader: (4)

Yup, all the trunk interior trims. Have fun!
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=245316

rominl

iTrader: (4)

yes, that's what i meant by trunk lining. they are all held down by clips, as long as you don't break those clips, you can just clip them back on. NO GLUE needed. lexus put enough design so things can be put back. just think about it, in order to change the stock shocks (maintenance items), lexus also need to do all these. they wouldn't want to make their life more miserable

CenterIsl

Talwang's install picture helped me to visualize this. Does that thread's reference to t-25 / t-30 (torx) bits refers to the wiring work by the radio?

It looks like they first removed the tool tray to get room to swing the sides in...but I shouldn't have to remove the lining behind the rear seats, right?

CenterIsl

BTW, if the only hole that has to be created is in the interior trim panel (I mistakenly assumed it involved sheet metal)...does anyone know how high that sits above the top of the shock tower? I'm now thinking it might make more sense to cut an access (hole saw / dremel) and install a plug. If the trim is flush against that top mount, then a small hole - in the right location - would be enough to insert that 2.5mm hex wrench.

rominl

iTrader: (4)

you need the torx to remove the two little "hubs" where the roof screen sits when you pull them out.

yes, you remove the two buckets on the side, the carpet, tool tray, the lower back cover, then the sides. no need to touch the rear (where it goes to the seat)

you can drill a hole, the strut tower is not too far away from the lining. but unless you cut a big hole, otherwise you will have to cut very precisely otherwise it's hard to reach the top of the shock. the shock doesn't sit straight, it's at an angle

talwang

iTrader: (4)

That is my friend who was installing edfc for me free of charge.
You need to remove every trunk interior trim behind that tonneau cover starting from rear sill plate.
Even you want to drill a hole, you still need to remove those before you can drill at the right spot.

Just keep in mind that those two side trim panel you plan to drill will cost you around $500 each.
If there was a shortcut, all the smart people here would have already found it long time ago.
Maybe you are smarter than us. hehehe
I am one of the cheap guys here on CL and I decided to go with the EDFC for a reason.

CenterIsl

Ah, so that means that my idea for bypassing the Agree / Nav override (see other thread) won't work? <grin>

CenterIsl

I'm mostly lazy. Plus it's about 40 degrees outside for the next few months...something that discourages long involved projects. I suppose I could shuffle things around and get this in my garage...

Seriously, I think I could get pretty close to the correct drill location by matching the shock angle(s) from outside the car. Yes, I don't relish putting holes in the trim...but I also know that this kind of trim r&r isn't totally without pitfalls either. I'll have too noodle on this a bit...

rominl

iTrader: (4)

what a LIE

talwang

iTrader: (4)

I am also lazy.

Who just bought another two brand new Lexus and put lots of expensive parts on them?

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=323141

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=321156

talwang

iTrader: (4)

Bypassing might work, but no one here has tried it or shared the info yet.
I'd rather use the navi override unit instead (runs in parallel to the factory wiring system). You can pm PS VIP for more info.

Anyone can drill a big hole without removing the trims, the idea of removing them beforehand is to make sure the hole is as tiny & invisible as possible.
Let me remind you that the adjusting *** also has a cover cap on it.

Maybe you can do it this way.
I had thought of drilling a hole then adding a nice looking removable dust cap over it before I bought the edfc.

bt430

Big hole works great. Thats what I did plus I was able to find hole plugs the same color, looks stock.