I concur. I changed out all bearings and pulleys and water pump while I was in there earlier this year. Every time I punch the throttle down I have no doubts that everything up there is new and working correctly.
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Thanks for all the great input. I slept soundly last night and drove like a bat out of hell today. The mechanic did a 100 point inspection and found nothing else the SC needed. I truly enjoy this car like no other and appreciate this forum as I have truly learned a lot. I replaced every thing with a bearing including the waterpump and idler assembly.
2002 SC 430 62k
2007 ES 350 60k
Disregard this post - you need an impact wrench or breaker-bar with dampener holder tool to pull the crank bolt. This crank bolt is torqued pretty stoutly.
The first hurdle with these timing belt changes is always getting that crank bolt off. I just changed the head and timing belt on my son's Ford Focus, and there is no easy way to hold the harmonic dampener. Most just use an impact wrench to remove and then install the same way - but you don't know the torque. I'm posting here to give the forum an alternative way of removing and reinstalling the crank bolt if you don't have the damper holding tool described in this thread, or don't have an impact wrench. I figured this one out while cussing the Focus.
Take the old timing belt, and wrap it once around the crank pulley. Now take a vice grips or clamp and pinch the belt sides together to squeeze it tight around the pulley (so the teeth won't jump). Put the clamp on the belt only, not across the pulley. Now that the belt is tightly compressed around the pulley, take the remaining belt end and wrap it around something solid (I used the jack stand with the weight of the car on it). Hold on tight to the belt that you've wrapped around the jack stand (friction is your friend here), or get a helper, and get on that crank bolt with your breaker bar and extension pipe. I can't say that this will work on the Lexus, but it was a piece of cake on that little SOHC engine on the focus, which was torqued pretty stoutly. Do the same thing to torque it back on.
However, the harmonic damper pulley holding tool that many of us used in this thread is the way to go.
Just wanted to thank Club Lexus, Members, and Threads Just finished installing water pump and timing belt on a 2001 430 LS. Need some misc. hoses plastic fasteners,proper freon,paint and detail items. Will plastic weld some under engine covers/air flow parts. Am inspired by the pristine detail of finished engine and parts. I will complete this 430 LS tomorrow along with detail.
After I'd moved the cams I was worried a bit but reading the threads and watching the videos allowed me to follow a detailed course to complete correctly. After lining up the cam factory marks to the I and then the CR arrow/line to the crank factory dot worked like a dream. I knew when the marks I'd made matched up perfectly it was like a double check system. Wow rotated by hand the engine complete crank socket/brake bar method not twice but four times and the marks lined up perfect on all marks mine and factory.
You guys are awesome. I'll be back we have a 92 400 SC I plan on modifying and updating and keeping and enjoying. Bye for now.
@KJCOLE the torque spec of a Ford Focus is much less than that of the SC430 crank bolt. I would be willing to put money on that one anyway and the method you talk about does not work for this motor. The crank bolt (by memory) is 186ft/lbs torque. i.e. you have to drop the weight of the car on that bolt to loosen it so I would only assume a close to similar process to tighten it. None the less it was a beach (not the warm sandy type) to get that tight again. Just wanted to add my $.02 to that one from experience and congrats on completing your task Daddio. Hopefully the alignment mark tips I added helped as well. My motor has been runing as strong as ever since the major top end overhaul that I did 2 months ago!
Set aside a weekend so you aren't rushed.
Have a good collection of extension bars, wrenches (the ratcheting box-ends are great), and sockets.
Pull the radiator - you'll be glad to have the extra room to work. Keep everything you pull off neatly organized and separated by assembly - makes putting it back together easier.
Don't be afraid to take take some pix before you tackle each assembly - makes putting it back together easier!
Don't forget the red silicone sealant for the water pump assembly.
Don't over-torque anything bolting into aluminum!!!
Great time to change the coolant and the oil/filter.
Thanks a lot for the boost! Red Silicone Sealant, as in what kind and where to buy? How much to put in? I am pretty committed to doing this on my own. I have a suspicion that my idlers as toast as I hear this whining noise.
Or maybe it is the Idler # 2 pulley which I am receiving tomorrow, I will replace.
I know which package to get from Fleabay. The Aisin one for $220+.
I have read these posts at least 4X. This dreaded TDC and rotate to XXX is bothering me a bit.
Thanks for the inspiration. I have done my plugs (which is not a serious job, compared to this TB work).
I have to have a TB change under my belt. This will be it.
SC430 WGC-Ecru/RX330 Bamboo Pearl-Gray/IS350 Black Onyx-Gray
Mandy good luck with the timing belt/water pump change. I feel good about mine - engine sounds better - less squeaky and there is a healthy hum to it. BTW I also got the serpentine belt changed to a Gatorback per many people's recommendations. Lemme now how yours goes. Can show you my old belts the next time we meet.