Alternative Sway Bar Set Up
08-01-12, 03:25 PM
#32
"I got the TRD white bars as I think the blue bars might be too stiff. From the top of my head, the stock SC bars are 25mm front and 13mm rear. My TRD whites are 31mm front and 16mm rear."
There's another thread re. why the GS sways bars don't fit. I put in the blue TRD in the front and it's the same 31mm cited above. I saw the rear sway bar on my sc last weekend and it looks really thin at 13mm.
I would think you want to match the TRD thickness with the stock design.
08-01-12, 04:15 PM
#33
SlvBullet, what you said above is all correct^^^
One HUGE factor to keep in mind is, some bars are hollow and some are solid. Solid bars are stiffer.
Yes both the TRD white and blue front bars are 31mm, but the white bar is hollow and the blue bar is solid.
For the TRD rear bars, white is 16mm solid and blue is 19mm hollow.
Stock SC bar is 25mm front and 13mm rear, I am sure the rear bar is solid, but the front could be hollow, I am not sure. But judging from the 27mm stock bar on the front of my LS430 that is hollow, my guess is the 25mm stock bar on the SC430 is hollow.
One HUGE factor to keep in mind is, some bars are hollow and some are solid. Solid bars are stiffer.
Yes both the TRD white and blue front bars are 31mm, but the white bar is hollow and the blue bar is solid.
For the TRD rear bars, white is 16mm solid and blue is 19mm hollow.
Stock SC bar is 25mm front and 13mm rear, I am sure the rear bar is solid, but the front could be hollow, I am not sure. But judging from the 27mm stock bar on the front of my LS430 that is hollow, my guess is the 25mm stock bar on the SC430 is hollow.
08-01-12, 06:08 PM
#34
SlvBullet, what you said above is all correct^^^
One HUGE factor to keep in mind is, some bars are hollow and some are solid. Solid bars are stiffer.
Yes both the TRD white and blue front bars are 31mm, but the white bar is hollow and the blue bar is solid.
For the TRD rear bars, white is 16mm solid and blue is 19mm hollow.
Stock SC bar is 25mm front and 13mm rear, I am sure the rear bar is solid, but the front could be hollow, I am not sure. But judging from the 27mm stock bar on the front of my LS430 that is hollow, my guess is the 25mm stock bar on the SC430 is hollow.
One HUGE factor to keep in mind is, some bars are hollow and some are solid. Solid bars are stiffer.
Yes both the TRD white and blue front bars are 31mm, but the white bar is hollow and the blue bar is solid.
For the TRD rear bars, white is 16mm solid and blue is 19mm hollow.
Stock SC bar is 25mm front and 13mm rear, I am sure the rear bar is solid, but the front could be hollow, I am not sure. But judging from the 27mm stock bar on the front of my LS430 that is hollow, my guess is the 25mm stock bar on the SC430 is hollow.
08-01-12, 06:30 PM
#35
You can't "feel" it, the only difference is weight. If you can bent a sway bar for a 3900 lbs car with your bare hand, you are superman 
On my LS430, my stock bar look and feel identical to the TRD bar, same diameter, shape......etc. The only difference I can tell is the solid TRD bar is much heavier.
I don't know Ultra Racing, I have only seen their product on ebay.
I rather modify my bracket to clear my straight bar, because I am 100% sure that would work. Buying a different bar introduces a lot of uncertain variables.
On my LS430, my stock bar look and feel identical to the TRD bar, same diameter, shape......etc. The only difference I can tell is the solid TRD bar is much heavier.
I rather modify my bracket to clear my straight bar, because I am 100% sure that would work. Buying a different bar introduces a lot of uncertain variables.
Last edited by BNR34; 08-02-12 at 12:44 PM.
06-25-13, 08:59 PM
#36
Guys, don't wait for me on the adaptor as I won't get to it for a long while, hate to keep you guys waiting.
But it is very simple, you guys can all get it done yourself, it is all a matter of cutting a hole on the chassis brace bracket in the middle for a straight sway bar to go thru, you can see it very clearly in this picture, these guy did the same thing. My only concern is that bracket might get too weak after it is cut, so it might have to be reinforced by welding on some extra tubings or metel sheets.
The stock SC's rear bar are bent to clear this bracket, the GS bar is straight.
But it is very simple, you guys can all get it done yourself, it is all a matter of cutting a hole on the chassis brace bracket in the middle for a straight sway bar to go thru, you can see it very clearly in this picture, these guy did the same thing. My only concern is that bracket might get too weak after it is cut, so it might have to be reinforced by welding on some extra tubings or metel sheets.
The stock SC's rear bar are bent to clear this bracket, the GS bar is straight.
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