oif721

-I have a 1992 SC300 and it has a 1J swap
-About 2 months ago it was in a car fire
-The trunk went up in flames for some reason and I have no idea why it started there
-Luckily the gas tank didn't go up
-So I salvaged the car and slowly fixed it in my garage
-I replaced the wire harness that goes from the driver side kicker panel - fuel pump ecu - all the way back to the rear taillights and all other trunk related wires
-After replacing this harness I got the car to start
-I read around and stumbled on OBEEWON's thread https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...t-turn-on.html his headlights not working
-Someone mentioned a thing called a Relay Integration located on the back side of the interior fuse box
-After pulling and replacing the Relay Integration I thought I'd be in the clear, but it didn't solve anything

Now here's the problem:

Things that don't work:
The gauge cluster is getting no power whatsoever; so I ruled out the bulbs.
The headlights don't work at all
The power windows don't work along with the powers locks

Things that work:
Car starts just fine
The hazards and turn signals work
High beams work ONLY with the "flick" function and will NOT stay on

Please advise!!! This is becoming a huge mystery and problem

mikef

iTrader: (3)

question when you turn the key, does the cluster lights flicker on then off real quick?

oif721

No, nothing. I forgot to mention that the AIR BAG light stays on when I connect the battery

Shrugy

iTrader: (12)

My air bag light stayed on due to the fact that I powered on the cluster when it wasn't plugged in.

This is a tough nut to crack

oif721

I'm wondering is there's a separate ECU for the gauge cluster

I don't want to keep throwing parts at it

I don't have much experience with electronics, but if I were to test the lines with a multimeter what should I be looking for (procedures)?

oif721

Here's what it looked like after the fire department put it out and I had it towed back home.... sadness

Biddles

iTrader: (2)

Damn man that's awful, are you sure you want to use that car still? I think I would have to put her down.

oif721

Yeah, it smells awful in there, but it's growing on me haha

I just had the diff welded and a straight pipe put in and it'll eventually get more beat up than this so I don't mind for now

I had a '94 DWP 5-spd a while ago and it was the most reliable car I've ever owned

Not so much with this one...

tfwnoturbo

Try checking ALL the fuses related to headlight and tailight function. My repair manual says the associated fuses are these.

In Relay Block #2:

• DIM Relay
• H-LP Relay
• HEAD(RH-LWR) Fuse
• HEAD(LH-LWR) Fuse
• HEAD(RH-UPR) Fuse
• HEAD (LH-UPR) Fuse
• DRL Fuse

Junction Block #1:

• Tailight Control Relay
• Integration Relay (you've checked this one so ignore)
• TAIL fuse
• GAUGE fuse

There's also the DRL Relays 2 through 4, but I'm not sure that'll do much.
Also while you're at it, check the "Light Failure Sensor" somewhere near the antenna assembly. It seems to be near the point of damage.

oif721

I'll do that and report back. Thank you so much!

I do remember reading about the "Light failure sensor" somewhere, but where ever it is it's in a puddle of plastic somewhere.

Would that sensor not being present cause larger issues?

tfwnoturbo

Not sure. All i know it senses if your tail lights are out and possibly some other stuff, doesn't say much else about it. Since your antenna assembly is gone and I believe the sensor hitches a ride beside the assembly, I can only assume it is beyond fried.

mikef

iTrader: (3)

If you look at the wires behind the radio you will see 2 grounds if there not connected all your dash and everything inside won't work, took me weeks to figure it out
actually you have to remove the center console where the shifter is, follow the 2 grounds on each side

oif721

I'll check for that too, but nothing in the area has ever been tampered with

I'll definitely double check though

Thank you!

estomax

iTrader: (2)

do you have an FSM? there are power wire diagrams in there you should reference and if youre comfortable following those you will be able to track down where power is supposed to be going. gauge cluster for example is powered by the 10A GAUGE fuse, a yellow wire going to pin C1 on the gauge cluster. ohm that out to the fusebox and see if you can see where the problem is.

vigman

Did the car have an after market stereo... in the trunk ? Or old wiring for a big amp that was removed?
This , pardon the pun smells funny...
Have you verified ALL the fuses in the under hoof black box??
Take an ohm meter and measure em You will need to make little blade adaptors