463K on My SC300, Original NON rebuilt Engine and Transmission
01-12-15, 10:46 PM
#1
Rookie
Thread Starter
463K on My SC300, Original NON rebuilt Engine and Transmission
Guys I am the second owner of my SC300. I picked it up with about 45K on the odometer. Back in the mid 90s LOL.
I just Clicked over 463K on my 93 SC300 with the original non Rebuilt engine and transmission.
Normal service maintenance
Spark plugs, cap, wires and rotor
Major service
4 timing belts
2 cam seals
1 timing belt tensioner
4 new front crankshaft seals ( replace while replacing timing belts)
5 water pumps
1 valve cover gasket
Original Alternator ( Rebuilt every 100k ,new bearing rectifier bridge and brushes)
Original Starter (rebuilt once, new brushes and bearings)
Original Transmission ( installed new shift solenoids 300K)
Replace trans fluid and filter every 100K
Replaced U joints on drive shaft @ 300K
Oil: 1st 200k Castrol GTX, moved over the Castrol Synthetic. with Lucas Oil additive on both grades of oil.
4 fuel filters
1 fuel Pump ( didn't go bad, just replaced because it was 10 years old at the time with 250K)
Only big problem I have/ had is the front brake calipers (Pistons seize up over a period of time). Replace both sides 3 times.
I perform all the mechanical services my self.
What's your experience with your SC300 with the 2JZe Engine and trans?
I just Clicked over 463K on my 93 SC300 with the original non Rebuilt engine and transmission.
Normal service maintenance
Spark plugs, cap, wires and rotor
Major service
4 timing belts
2 cam seals
1 timing belt tensioner
4 new front crankshaft seals ( replace while replacing timing belts)
5 water pumps
1 valve cover gasket
Original Alternator ( Rebuilt every 100k ,new bearing rectifier bridge and brushes)
Original Starter (rebuilt once, new brushes and bearings)
Original Transmission ( installed new shift solenoids 300K)
Replace trans fluid and filter every 100K
Replaced U joints on drive shaft @ 300K
Oil: 1st 200k Castrol GTX, moved over the Castrol Synthetic. with Lucas Oil additive on both grades of oil.
4 fuel filters
1 fuel Pump ( didn't go bad, just replaced because it was 10 years old at the time with 250K)
Only big problem I have/ had is the front brake calipers (Pistons seize up over a period of time). Replace both sides 3 times.
I perform all the mechanical services my self.
What's your experience with your SC300 with the 2JZe Engine and trans?
Last edited by red93sc; 01-12-15 at 10:50 PM.
01-12-15, 11:00 PM
#2
Driver School Candidate
wow that's amazing man my 92 sc300 is still young 117k miles burns oil every so often I just check it at every fill up. 5 speed still shifts like butter. just replaced the starter last week replaced valve cover gasket 2 months ago along with spark plugs and wires. mainly the suspension needs attention vibration while driving on the highway along with it acting squirrely after hitting bumps I read about rack busings causing that so I will inspect/change them and take a look at the control arm bushings
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01-13-15, 10:17 AM
#9
Rookie
Thread Starter
Thanks guys for the props.
kartel876: You can significantly reduce your oil consumption, buy using an oil additive. I have tried a variety of brands. I must say, the Lucas oil additives have surpassed them all.
I used their power steering pump additive when my seal begin to leak around 200K. It stopped the leak until about 300k when i decided replace the seal .
I just replaced my inner tie rod ends this past weekend, they were the originals. The old ones were definitely worn out..1/8" to 1/4" of looseness in the joint.. I must say, it drives and respond like new.
What Up Steve.. You know we gotta have one good stock car in the corral. We can't make all hot rods lol. I 'll see ya at the track.
E
kartel876: You can significantly reduce your oil consumption, buy using an oil additive. I have tried a variety of brands. I must say, the Lucas oil additives have surpassed them all.
I used their power steering pump additive when my seal begin to leak around 200K. It stopped the leak until about 300k when i decided replace the seal .
I just replaced my inner tie rod ends this past weekend, they were the originals. The old ones were definitely worn out..1/8" to 1/4" of looseness in the joint.. I must say, it drives and respond like new.
What Up Steve.. You know we gotta have one good stock car in the corral. We can't make all hot rods lol. I 'll see ya at the track.
E
Last edited by red93sc; 01-13-15 at 10:22 AM.
01-13-15, 01:20 PM
#13
Driver School Candidate
Thanks guys for the props.
kartel876: You can significantly reduce your oil consumption, buy using an oil additive. I have tried a variety of brands. I must say, the Lucas oil additives have surpassed them all.
I used their power steering pump additive when my seal begin to leak around 200K. It stopped the leak until about 300k when i decided replace the seal .
I just replaced my inner tie rod ends this past weekend, they were the originals. The old ones were definitely worn out..1/8" to 1/4" of looseness in the joint.. I must say, it drives and respond like new.
What Up Steve.. You know we gotta have one good stock car in the corral. We can't make all hot rods lol. I 'll see ya at the track.
E
kartel876: You can significantly reduce your oil consumption, buy using an oil additive. I have tried a variety of brands. I must say, the Lucas oil additives have surpassed them all.
I used their power steering pump additive when my seal begin to leak around 200K. It stopped the leak until about 300k when i decided replace the seal .
I just replaced my inner tie rod ends this past weekend, they were the originals. The old ones were definitely worn out..1/8" to 1/4" of looseness in the joint.. I must say, it drives and respond like new.
What Up Steve.. You know we gotta have one good stock car in the corral. We can't make all hot rods lol. I 'll see ya at the track.
E
01-13-15, 01:35 PM
#14
That is fantastic you should make it to 500k and keep going at this rate.
I would suggest next time just upgrade to the ls400 calipers in the front, check it out in the brake section. they make the car stop much better and are more or less bolt on (have to remove/trim a dust shield and use a shorter bolt). they are 4 piston and aluminum so not only do you get much better breaking, you save a bunch of weight up front. the original calipers are twice as heavy they are like iron lol.
I would suggest next time just upgrade to the ls400 calipers in the front, check it out in the brake section. they make the car stop much better and are more or less bolt on (have to remove/trim a dust shield and use a shorter bolt). they are 4 piston and aluminum so not only do you get much better breaking, you save a bunch of weight up front. the original calipers are twice as heavy they are like iron lol.
01-13-15, 03:16 PM
#15
Yes! Love to see that. I'm surprised you haven't done any suspension work... mine's at 166k with worn out bushings and ball joints. It's going to cost a grip to fix, and I get a lot of people telling me "why bother, you're just going to sell it in a couple of years with that many miles" but they don't get it--I bought mine with 80k, and I plan to keep it forever.
How does she idle? I'm considering changing out my plugs / rotor / cap as it's never been done.
How does she idle? I'm considering changing out my plugs / rotor / cap as it's never been done.