tw3rkbot

Hi all,

I recently purchased a 92 sc400 from a buddy of mine for only $300
200k miles
Power steering groans and turns hard at low rpm.
Transmission shifts HARD from park to drive (while driving it shifts fine)
Gas gague doesnt work.

Other than that seems to run fine and hasnt given me any problems. I have removed the ps pump solenoid and cleaned the screen. It was nasty! (Used the screwdriver method and yes i made a video i will upload it later). Bled the system with dextron III ATF fluid. Steering still gorans but turns MUCH better even at low rpm. I figure either the pump is bad or theres a leak. Today i noticed white smoke when i first start it up so I now things its probably that valve under the ps pump you guys all talk about. Im going to plug it tonight.

The transmission shifts really hard from Park to Drive. During driving its fine. But when shifting into drive it is real hard and nasty. The transmission fluid level is fine but its REALLY dark red and smalls bad. (Assuming that it didnt get its tranny flushed often.) I read here that with this many miles flushibg it is bad and to introduce it gradually. I will do so.

My question is do you guys have any reccomendations on certain things to avoid and certain things to check/change now?. Ive always been a chevy guy. This is my first import/lexus and so far I love it! You all seem like a great community so im glad to be a part of the crowd. Any advise would be appreciated!

Biddles

iTrader: (2)

I would seafoam it, change the plugs, and wires. Seems like you're on the right track though. The shift from Park to Drive is normal for me, it was hard in my other SC400, and hard in my current SC400. I've seen a few people talk about how to fix it, I was recommended transmission mount but that didn't fix it. Couldn't hurt to check out your tranny mount though it's easy. Then I believe driveshaft bearing may fix the hard shift. Can't confirm it as I haven't replaced it yet. Good luck, sounds like you got a pretty good deal...hell $300 aint much these days.

tw3rkbot

Thanks! I have always done the work and maintenance on my cars. If I didnt know how I google/youtubed/chilton until i figured out how.

Seafoam is a good idea (actually still have a can from my previous car) ill give that a throw. Plugs and wires were going to be my next bet most likely.

Yea I got pretty lucky $300 was a steal for me since i have ALWAYS wanted an sc300/400 the body is perfect even paint. So even if i had to throw $700 at a new motor im still in the green in my opinion.

tw3rkbot

So i want to fix whatever this growl is in my power steering. The solenoid screen cleaning and flush REALLY helped the steering. But the whine/growl (albeit quieter) is still very prominent. (Such a beautiful car...until I turn .

I passed a local mechanic shop and some guy was like "damn that s*** is broke!" As i turned out of the parking lot. I laughed because hes right haha.

Anyway was wondering if any of you have used uv dye for PS issues. I want to replace whatever needs it. Pump,rack,hoses... For now im on a budget so I would prefer to only fix what needs it for the time being. I have had success with uv dye before with other issues in other cars. But since i am new to lexus and new to import. I want to be absolutely sure it is okay.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

burp the system before you do much more, get the wheels in the air and move the wheel from full lock left to right and back lots of times. keep an eye on the fluid level and if it goes down thats good that means air came out and then top it off with more fluid. If you open the cap when its running and it shoots out everywhere you likely have air in the system.
the pump makes noise when its not lubricated enough so air in the system, or the seals have gone bad and its not working efficiently internally anymore. I always try and eliminate the air first I have had good pumps make noise for a while but once they start to whine it does put some wear on them might eventually want a replacement, cause on a 400 if it leaks externally its very common to leak on the alternator and then you need a new alternator. some people replace 2 or 3 alternators before they figure out the PS fluid is leaking all over it.

tw3rkbot

Yea i used the guide in the mega thread to bleed air from the system after i cleaned thr filter on the solenoid. As of now with the car running the fluid swirls and i dont see any air bubbles like i did before i bled it. I do see that the boots are extremely worn and cracked on my rack so im sure that has alot to do with it. I just picked up the dye so im going to throw it in and take a drive. Anything that shows leakage. Pump, rack, hoses etc will be replaced.

Tried uploading the video of me removing the solenoid but everytime i try it gets to 100% then says couldnt upload. Ill try from my computer tonight.

Thanks for the advice guys ill keep it updated once i find the final issue. Id rather not replace the pump right now. But since itssuch a common issue i might just end up doing it anyway if I can afford it.

Theres a guy locally (las vegas) that has a perfectly good sc400 with a broken control arm for $600 im thinking about picking it up if i can afford it.

GISguy

Please do. Been waiting for a solenoid cleaning video for a long time.

tw3rkbot

I used the screwdriver method. I tried vise grips (regular and long nose) couldnt get a good grip. Not many have success with the screwdriver method. The physics are there though so I have it a try. Took 5 minutes (3 of those minutes were spent being scared too hit it too hard lol) tbh hardest part was unscrewing and screwing it back it with out messing up the wires from the bottom.of the unit for the connector. I will upload as soon as i get home tonight i promise.

tw3rkbot

WOW!!! the dye is amazing. For $7 i cant believe more people dont use this for diagnosis. So its for sure the pump. I can see exactly where the fluid seeps between the pump and the block creeps to the front drips on the side of the alternator then drips to the ground. Awesome. Now that i know its the pumo im going to use the guide to replace it i know it was said the tranny shifting hard might be a common thing but does anyone have any suggestions? Im going to the thr cable and the mounts hopefully its just that.

oldManTan

the tranny shifting hard could be the solenoid bypass wire. open up your floor in the passenger side where the ECU is and check if a pink wire with a black stripe on it is cut. if it is that means the 4th solenoid is bypassed and it shifts the car hard. people do this on purpose to make the car shifter a little quicker. how does it downshift? and here's the thread about it
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...it-s-free.html

skeet92

iTrader: (1)

I don't know but when my trranny shifted hard from park to drive and was told its normal, two weeks later was replacing my transmission. Go get your tranny checked out.

oldManTan

mine shifts smooth into D as well, with the bypass its a hard shift though

tw3rkbot

hey guys!

thanks for the replies so far. as far as the tranny goes. I will check the solenoid bypass. once its in drive it shifts up ad down just fine havent noticed any slippage or anything problem only happens when I shift from park to drive. that being said. if i go from P to R to N to D taking a 1-2 second pause in between shifts it is ALOT smoother going into D.

the video is uploading from my laptop as we speak. im calling it quits for the night (1:27a.m. here) but so far I have everything exceot the 2 last bolts in the back of the pump removed (only took about an hour so far, taking my time) tomorrow I unbolt the pump and swap that bad boy over.

so as I stated in my introductory thread this is my first import but I can say so far its rather easy in comparison to domestic motors. so far im impressed. I absolutely cannot stress enough how awesome the dye is!

tw3rkbot

ps Solinoid removal. screwdriver method.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKYp...ature=youtu.be

alright so now ive got the pump off everything disconnected EXCEPT the power steering hose. in the lexls.com guide it shows a banjo fitting mine looks completely different.

LEXLS:


MINE:



am I supposed to unscrew the bronze looking bolt on the end/bottom of the piece? Or do I unscrew the skinny nutbetween the bronze piece and the pump itself? (reminds me of the nut for the solenoid) Im pretty sure I am supposed to remove the nut on the end of the piece but try for the life of me I cant get it to budge. Any ideas? Just want to make sure im removing the right bolt before I go man handle this thing.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

still looks like a banjo to me, isn't there a pipe coming off the center part?
Don't forget the copper crush washers one on each side.
do not turn the part with the pipe coming off of it, remove the bolt at the very bottom.

there is a notch for a pipe/monkey wrench on the banjo itself, my guess would be to keep the banjo still while you are breaking loose the bottom bolt.
You don't want to break the bottom free and then bend the heck out of the banjo line now do you.
it will also help get the right alignment when re tightening the bottom bolt.

Sometimes those larger ones have been on there forever and don't want to break loose.
a breaker bar will probably do the trick to crack it open and then it should come out by hand.

what rpm's are you sitting at when you go from P to D.
In my experience people usually say it shifts to D rough when the idle rpm is too high for whatever reason.
It could be not idling down for a variety of reasons, tps needs adjustment, or someone cracked the throttle body open some to bandaid some other problem and guess what that also throws the tps adjustment off.

when your car is fully warmed up what does the rpm read. if its 650 or so then its right, if its much higher than that then you probably have one of those issues or something similar. some more info or a startup video would help.