Door stuck shut, at a lose...
#1
Door stuck shut, at a lose...
95 sc300.
So, recently my passenger side door would not open from the outside but the inside handle worked fine. The outside handle felt as if the connecting rod had detached entirely, there is no resistance in the handle at all. The inside handle worked fine unless the window was down, which I assumed was making contact with the disconnected connecting rod. Today, of all days, I go to attempt to fix it and now the door will not open at all. The window goes down about 3/4 of the way and gets stuck on the assumed connecting rod jamming it up.
From the sounds of it, I think the connecting rod has come off the door actuator side and is still connected to the inside handle. Being that I can not get the door panel off while the door is closed, does anyone have any advice how to go about this? I really don't want to destroy my door panel and since the connecting rod is useless using a slim jim I am not sure would work either. I guess I could try a lock smith and have them pop it open for a few hundred bucks. I just can not for the life of me see a way to get inside the door panel while its still shut...
So, recently my passenger side door would not open from the outside but the inside handle worked fine. The outside handle felt as if the connecting rod had detached entirely, there is no resistance in the handle at all. The inside handle worked fine unless the window was down, which I assumed was making contact with the disconnected connecting rod. Today, of all days, I go to attempt to fix it and now the door will not open at all. The window goes down about 3/4 of the way and gets stuck on the assumed connecting rod jamming it up.
From the sounds of it, I think the connecting rod has come off the door actuator side and is still connected to the inside handle. Being that I can not get the door panel off while the door is closed, does anyone have any advice how to go about this? I really don't want to destroy my door panel and since the connecting rod is useless using a slim jim I am not sure would work either. I guess I could try a lock smith and have them pop it open for a few hundred bucks. I just can not for the life of me see a way to get inside the door panel while its still shut...
#2
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
I passed on picking up a project car a few weeks back largely for that issue. I had previously read about similar problems and the only solution I recall seeing was half-serious suggestions to cut a hole in the door itself to access the connecting rods, figuring the door is less valuable than the inner panel.
#3
Driver
iTrader: (3)
I had something similar happen a few years ago and went into full panic mode. IF you can get the window back up before you try anything else it will take some strain off of the mechanism inside the door. What I finally concluded was what do I have to lose and pulled on the inside handle until I almost broke it and forced open the door with my shoulder. I mean at this point you really have nothing to lose trying. Maybe someone else has a better solution here.
#4
I can get the window fully up and it doesn't seem to effect anything.
I actually forgot that it uses cables instead of rods, not that it matters much but I do recall the cables now.
After playing with it for a bit I can hear the actuator moving while using the inside handle, it feels more as if the actuator is locked and just jammed. The inside handle feels normal and with the window 3/4 of the way down I can feel it hitting the cable inside. I can force the window past that sticking point with no effect. The lock button works with power and I swear I can hear it moving at the actuator also.
I have tried pulling on the handle as hard as possible to the point of almost breaking it, trying gently and everything in between with all combinations of the window up/down. I just don't know, short of cutting a hole in the outside of the door or destroying my door panel. I am not sure if a lock smith can do much of anything, I don't know if they rely on the rod/cable working and if mine clearly has issues if that will help them in anyway.
For fun I tried using the key on the outside to unlock it and it sounds and feels like it is unlocking/locking using the key.
I actually forgot that it uses cables instead of rods, not that it matters much but I do recall the cables now.
After playing with it for a bit I can hear the actuator moving while using the inside handle, it feels more as if the actuator is locked and just jammed. The inside handle feels normal and with the window 3/4 of the way down I can feel it hitting the cable inside. I can force the window past that sticking point with no effect. The lock button works with power and I swear I can hear it moving at the actuator also.
I have tried pulling on the handle as hard as possible to the point of almost breaking it, trying gently and everything in between with all combinations of the window up/down. I just don't know, short of cutting a hole in the outside of the door or destroying my door panel. I am not sure if a lock smith can do much of anything, I don't know if they rely on the rod/cable working and if mine clearly has issues if that will help them in anyway.
For fun I tried using the key on the outside to unlock it and it sounds and feels like it is unlocking/locking using the key.
Last edited by iwannadie; 07-26-14 at 12:32 PM.
#5
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
It's rods on the outside handle, cables on the inside handle, isn't it? I know the inside is cables -- I've messed with those plenty of times -- and pretty sure the outside is what the rods connect to.
The one I looked at hand completely disconnected (or broken) inside handle cables. (And the window raised/lowered with no obstructions.) If you can feel something moving in the handle and latch mechanism, there might be hope that you can keep wiggling and bumping it until it opens up, then pull the door panel off before you accidentally close it again!
The one I looked at hand completely disconnected (or broken) inside handle cables. (And the window raised/lowered with no obstructions.) If you can feel something moving in the handle and latch mechanism, there might be hope that you can keep wiggling and bumping it until it opens up, then pull the door panel off before you accidentally close it again!
#6
Driver School Candidate
possible hope
My neighbor had a similar problem with his door on his 92. He managed to take the door panel off without causing noticeable damage. I'll ask him for exact details when I get back home. There may still be hope
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#11
If only I could get to the little clip . I am pretty sure now that the outside connecting rod broke free, then the power window bent it down and it is now wedged some how keeping the door shut, if thats possible. It really feels like the inside cables are intake but something else is keeping the door actuator from releasing. I really can't wait to get it open now and see exactly what failed to cause this.
#12
Driver
iTrader: (3)
Now it's coming together. You understand now why I said put the window up first. 1.) Put the window up 2.)With the key unlock the door from the exterior passenger lock, 3.)Pull like a ***** on the interior handle and even pry the door in addition to using your shoulder. In other words it will not work if the door is locked or the rod and window regulator are impinging on the cable and certainly not if the lock is locked and the rod and window assembly are impinging on the cable. Give her a try after trying this again. Good luck.
#13
Now it's coming together. You understand now why I said put the window up first. 1.) Put the window up 2.)With the key unlock the door from the exterior passenger lock, 3.)Pull like a ***** on the interior handle and even pry the door in addition to using your shoulder. In other words it will not work if the door is locked or the rod and window regulator are impinging on the cable and certainly not if the lock is locked and the rod and window assembly are impinging on the cable. Give her a try after trying this again. Good luck.
I am going to try and use a slim tool to slide into the door and wiggle the assumed disconnected rod free.
#14
Racer
iTrader: (7)
I just went out to my car to pretend it was in the same issue and you're pretty stuck man. Only thing I can think of is pulling off the speaker grill and trying to reach a rod through there.
Otherwise you'll have to cut through the panel and pull the cable to pop the door. I think the least amount of damage is either going to be through ripping off the wood trim piece or cutting through the leather right below it; whichever you would be better at replacing... Sucks man..
Otherwise you'll have to cut through the panel and pull the cable to pop the door. I think the least amount of damage is either going to be through ripping off the wood trim piece or cutting through the leather right below it; whichever you would be better at replacing... Sucks man..
#15
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
That's gonna be tough. The inner handle and wood trim are screwed on from the back side. I imagine it would be difficult to rip them apart without destroying the panel, too. Going through the speaker grill is an interesting idea, but it's at the wrong end of the panel and you'd have to be one seriously skinny contortionist to reach anything from there. Too bad the engineers didn't design an emergency access point through removing the arm rests.
I wonder if you could pry the top of the door panel away from the window enough to reach down there with some needle nose pliers and grab onto the cable? You would want to put tape over the window beforehand and roll it down enough to not risk scratching exposed glass. It seems like the top of the panel isn't really held in by anything but pressure on tabs that extend up into the window trim, so maybe you'll have luck separating it a bit.
I wonder if you could pry the top of the door panel away from the window enough to reach down there with some needle nose pliers and grab onto the cable? You would want to put tape over the window beforehand and roll it down enough to not risk scratching exposed glass. It seems like the top of the panel isn't really held in by anything but pressure on tabs that extend up into the window trim, so maybe you'll have luck separating it a bit.