sc4shelby

what my neighbor said what he did was he removed the screw holding the handle to the door and the screws holding the arm rest to the door and got a flat head between the top window trim and the door panel and pryed the door panel to get the top loose, from there he said he pulled really hard on the cable and it opened, from there he took the panel off like normal. I can kinda see how that would work but i didn't physically see him do it, but i do remember his handles on his passenger door not working and now they work, so im assuming it worked for him. he did say however that the small crack on his window trip piece got way bigger and now it two spots.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Excellent info, thanks for following up. I wouldn't think you need to pull particularly hard on the cable once you've reached it. I drove around for a few days with my door panel off while working on alarm and speaker stuff, and I was able to open the door from the inside by lightly pulling on the cable. Although, for "stuck door" to have arisen, maybe the cable is pinched by something and not moving freely in the first place?

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

The door panel has to be placed and then pressed down into the right position to be mounted. You can try and pull it up and out a bit but only if it stretches..

jpw

I think what S4shelby said is your only viable option now. I have mine torn apart now as I'm rebuilding the lower part of the arm that goes into the actuator since it's broken. (have replaced 2 plastic clips, but this time caught it too late and the window bent it down, snapping the lower part off.

Oh and don't forget that awesome tip earlier in this thread about using your key outside to make sure the door's unlocked before you try to pull on the cable.

Also, when you pull on the cable maybe this will help....

Remove the cable cover mount point from the inner lever mount, then remove the end of the cable from the lever. (you would do this anyway). If I were you, I'd re-install the cable cover mount point (i.e. slide it back in) on to the mount so that when you actually pull on the end of the cable, the cable cover will remain stationary so the cable moves through the cable cover rather than pulling on the entire cable...

Good luck and hope you get it open...

iwannadie

iTrader: (1)

I appreciate all the info and insight everyone by the way, great support and keeping me from going insane while trying to sort this out.

I am waiting on a slim jim to show up and hoping I can dislodge whatever is stuck. In the mean time I am thinking of a back up plan and think I might cut a hole in the door panel... Under the armrest towards the back there is a plastic barrier and behind it is a hole in the door panel(from what I have seen in pictures). I am thinking, if I cut a hole in the plastic barrier and can fish my hand or something through the hole in the panel it is right where the access in the door frame is for the actuator. The hole would be hidden and could be left open or patched and never be seen. If i go this route I plan to pull the panel off the driver side just to have a visual reference of what I am reaching at blindly ha.

I will also keep everyone updated with whatever my hopeful success is .

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

I don't think you'll have a direct shot at any of the door hardware that way. Pretty sure it's all going to be tucked behind the solid metal bracing. (Why oh why did they not design that as a removable panel?) It's not a bad idea for an alternative way of getting in there, though. You might be able to fish around for the inner handle cables at the same time. If you do go that route, cut a flap instead of a hole, keeping it connected at the bottom. That way, you can bend it down, slip your arm up into the opening, and have a better job of patching it up to be unnoticeable later.

sc4shelby

there was a thread on here quite a while ago, when i had my first sc, that i had followed, that metal arm in the actuator broke on mine, instead of buying a new actuator i ended up getting a small sturdy piece of metal and i ground it down to fit around the small round white thing the original pushed on the open the door, i then used two screws to attach that to the metal arm because i didn't have a welder at that time.

iwannadie

iTrader: (1)

It certainly won't be a direct shot but I hope that I just need to get my fingers on the actuator or cable to release it, not like I am planning to unbolt anything through that access hole.

Good call on only cutting 3 sides and keeping it bent out of the way. It will be so out of sight but the less I have to cut the better.

Ramblerman

Another way is to remove inner fender panel, possibly fender also & unbolt hinge which will allow you to move door out enough to remove panel. Little plastic clip that holds rod to door handle broke & when you put window down you bent it, hopefully you didn't break it. Pain to fix. I bought 2 boxes of clips for 21$ got a lifetime supply now. Right & left.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Really, you can do that? I guess it makes sense that at least some of the hinge hardware has to be inside the door and fender. I assume there is still something stopping you from completely removing the hinge and lifting the door off that way, otherwise an enterprising thief could probably snap the lock/latch with the torque of the heavy door.

This thread convinced me to order a bag of spares, too. At 40 cents each, it's money well spent even if mine never fail.

Ramblerman

YES, have had to fix alot of doors that wouldn't open when I had my shop, this was one way to do it without cutting open the door or ruining hard to find or expensive parts. Once you remove the fender well & whatever else they stuck in there to block air, the bolts that hold door to hinge are right there. Use an extension unbolt door from hinge & you can swing door out enough to remove panel far enough to get your hand & arm up in the door to get to latch & release it. Your gonna lose a little skin & have to see with your fingers. GM was famous for this. Have someone to help, doors are heavy when released & you don't want it to fall on you as your usually laying on the ground under it. Clips were box of 20 ea.10$ per box plus shipping. 7$ per clip @ Toyota.

aliga

iTrader: (147)

break the door panel, only simple way.

iwannadie

iTrader: (1)

Got the door open, major pain.

I first tried a slim jim and just could not get the actuator rod to move or get to where I could feel it. I took the driver side panel off just to get a visual and feel for exactly what I was doing in the door. I did get good at unlocking the door though...

After giving up on the slim jim I started deciding on how to remove the door panel enough. I got flat head screw drivers under the upper panel and was able to pry the top of the panel off. I removed the two screws under the arm rest and just pried the rear of the panel free. I can plastic weld the broken screw holes and tabs later I decided. I got the panel away from the door fairly far and was able to get my arm sort of inside.

I gained access to the inside handle cables and used a pair of vice grips to try and pull to open the door to no avail.

In the most uncomfortable position I could ever get my hand and arm into I managed to get my fingers on the loose actuator rod and after a good 15 minutes I pressed it down just enough to open the door.

With the panel off I saw that the plastic clip holding the rod to the outside handle did in fact break. I haven't been able to get a look inside and see what else actually broke and caused the inside handle to not work.

My panel is in rather good shape, the screw holes for the rear screws are broken but plastic weld and some washer should fix that. For anyone with this problem, the best way I could gain access was just prying the top of the panel down and out. You should really be able to do that part without breaking anything. First thing is unbolt the inside handle screw and working flat blades under the upper panel and prying the small tabs free. Then pulling the rear of the panel free you will pull the screws through the panel holes, no getting around that. As you get the top of the panel loose you can undo the inside handle cables. With all of that undone you can pull the panel a good 6"-10" away from the door to get arms/tools inside, I had plenty of room. The big issue was getting my hand past the metal frame, the cross bar for the window regulator was right in the way. I almost started unbolting the outside handle and trying to go that route, you should have access to those bolts with the panel in that position.

All said and done, what a pain and now I still have to get in there and get the plastic tabs figured out and hope the metal rod isn't bent up and ruined or anything else. However, having the door open and panel intact was for me enough of a success.

Rhoderman

iTrader: (1)

Glad to hear you got it all apart. That AZ heat & dry sure hates plastic, don't it?

Do you see any good way to put a cable in for a manual release? For your next time, and since I'm going to be tearing into my door panels soon (speakers and tint). I'll prototype any ideas. I have some 1/16" aircraft cable, and the crimp ferrules to make loops.

iwannadie

iTrader: (1)

Honestly, having found the way to get the panel off I wouldn't bother rigging up any cable manual release inside the door. I would rather make a tool specific to pressing the actuator to release the door. Having an actuator out of the car and maybe focused on something that would be the right size/shape to do that for me would make more sense. I don't want to tread on any info that could be used to open doors to cars you don't own but thats the route I would go.

WIth cables and loops inside the door you are just looking at other things to snag or get in the way for when the tabs break and the rods are moving around where they shouldn't be.