96 sc400 seems sketchy
04-24-14, 04:47 PM
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96 sc400 seems sketchy
Hey there CL, need some advice and direction on what to get. I've been a member for over a year now and have done my research on the pros and cons on the sc400's. I recently sold my es300 and would like to get something with more power and something with a bit more character.
There is a 96 sc400 with no maintenance history with around 118,000 miles that needs struts all around and timing belt and water pump have not changed for 4800. The a/c is not as cold as he'd like. I hope the freon level is just low, but could possibly need a new a/c compressor.
There Is Another 95 Sc400 With 75,000 MILES On It With No Maintanence history for 6300, he claims the belt and water pump had been done by the previous owner, I don't know if I believe it because that would be pretty early to do.
Both body's are clean, with clean titles. They both will be inspected by a mechanic( I have a checklist of what I want checked out,compression, electrical, suspension, etc)
I don't know if it's worth the $, I will have to drive out of state to get both of them. I don't know which one would be a better buy or to stay away from both of them because they have no maintenance records. Need some input, advice.
Much appreciated
There is a 96 sc400 with no maintenance history with around 118,000 miles that needs struts all around and timing belt and water pump have not changed for 4800. The a/c is not as cold as he'd like. I hope the freon level is just low, but could possibly need a new a/c compressor.
There Is Another 95 Sc400 With 75,000 MILES On It With No Maintanence history for 6300, he claims the belt and water pump had been done by the previous owner, I don't know if I believe it because that would be pretty early to do.
Both body's are clean, with clean titles. They both will be inspected by a mechanic( I have a checklist of what I want checked out,compression, electrical, suspension, etc)
I don't know if it's worth the $, I will have to drive out of state to get both of them. I don't know which one would be a better buy or to stay away from both of them because they have no maintenance records. Need some input, advice.
Much appreciated
Last edited by coolexus96; 04-24-14 at 04:59 PM.
04-24-14, 05:45 PM
#2
I looked at a 97 sc300 with 24k miles on it, the thing was PERFECT lol, but under the car was smashed in, kinda looks like someone took it for a joy ride and just left it. no maintenance records and i turned it down, so if I was you, look over the car and match up the vins and all.
that is about the right price
that is about the right price
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04-25-14, 09:09 AM
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The 95 He just bumped the price up to 6500. Stock suspension going to go out soon, that will be more $. I think I might go with the 96 & replace struts all around for around 300 shipped (monroe) and then timing and water pump at dealership (890). So about 6 grand into the 96 If that's all it requires. I hope the freon level is just low and it will not need anything else.
I've read posts about the egr going out on these cars. Should I test drive the car for around 25 miles? Wait for it to get a little warm and see how it performs?
I would like to know the rituals u perform while test driving a car prior to purchasing especially the sc400.
greatly appreciated
I've read posts about the egr going out on these cars. Should I test drive the car for around 25 miles? Wait for it to get a little warm and see how it performs?
I would like to know the rituals u perform while test driving a car prior to purchasing especially the sc400.
greatly appreciated
04-25-14, 09:30 AM
#9
As far as the car with timing belt / wp for 6300 it's worth a shot to go look at it in person.
Look at the timing belt, my car has a sticker on top of the timing belt black plastic piece saying when it was replaced.
Maybe you will luck out and it'll be a good deal?
Also look all around, i didn't find anything but found 2 SC400's 1 mile form each other I was interested in because they had black exterior.
Me and my father drove 8 and a half hours each way to get my car. And I'm glad to say it has under 100k, flawless maintenance records, timing belt water pump already done etc for a lower price than the second vehicle.
Make sure you be patient and get EXACTLY what you want. Trust me don't skimp out, and get something you wont be satisfied with.
Look at the timing belt, my car has a sticker on top of the timing belt black plastic piece saying when it was replaced.
Maybe you will luck out and it'll be a good deal?
Also look all around, i didn't find anything but found 2 SC400's 1 mile form each other I was interested in because they had black exterior.
Me and my father drove 8 and a half hours each way to get my car. And I'm glad to say it has under 100k, flawless maintenance records, timing belt water pump already done etc for a lower price than the second vehicle.
Make sure you be patient and get EXACTLY what you want. Trust me don't skimp out, and get something you wont be satisfied with.
04-25-14, 09:57 AM
#10
Its not uncommon for meticulous owners to do the timing belt every 60k and one with that low mileage should have been replaced just due to age so it does not sound fishy to me at all. I have seen it many times where you have to do it based on age rather than mileage cause that type of owner will not wait another 5-10 years to rack up 120k to do the timing belt, by that time the already 20 year old belt would be 30 years old, I mean who care what mileage it has at 30 years change the belt already you know.
Go and drive both of them, and then decide. the one with lower mileage and the work being done already is a good thing and likely worth the money. if the other guy has a clean car too and just hasn't gotten around to doing it that might also be a good car but I would try and get a better deal on it cause really thats something that should be done by the owner before passing it on, not driving it up to the point of the timing belt job and then selling it, I would expect a discount to have to deal with whatever random stuff comes up during that job.
If the shocks are done, so are the lower control arm bushings, also check the wheel left to right for play if there is play it needs new rack bushings. rack bushings are cheap and easy, the lower control arms no so much.
go from drive to reverse with your foot on the brake a few times, turn the wheel and try it again, if you hear a loud clunk there is worn control arm bushing somewhere. These are more important than checking EGR, egr is just a simple system that can be replaced and do not go bad often enough to warrant looking out for that, but any car you want to buy get it up to operating temp and let it sit there or drive it, take it on the highway, make sure it won't overheat, drives straight, etc. etc..
Also pop the hood and check the inside of the 2 front fenders for the toyota stickers. easiest way to tell if a front acident has occured replacement fenders will not have the sticker unless replaced by a certified toyota center which rarely happens anyways. missing sticker, you ask what the accident was, and then look over the rest of the body very carefully if you are still interested. If they wont tell you then its probably a good idea to walk away. If they tell you and it was something minor then look over it to verify and it was just minor then its a good bargaining point and you know what you are getting.
Go and drive both of them, and then decide. the one with lower mileage and the work being done already is a good thing and likely worth the money. if the other guy has a clean car too and just hasn't gotten around to doing it that might also be a good car but I would try and get a better deal on it cause really thats something that should be done by the owner before passing it on, not driving it up to the point of the timing belt job and then selling it, I would expect a discount to have to deal with whatever random stuff comes up during that job.
If the shocks are done, so are the lower control arm bushings, also check the wheel left to right for play if there is play it needs new rack bushings. rack bushings are cheap and easy, the lower control arms no so much.
go from drive to reverse with your foot on the brake a few times, turn the wheel and try it again, if you hear a loud clunk there is worn control arm bushing somewhere. These are more important than checking EGR, egr is just a simple system that can be replaced and do not go bad often enough to warrant looking out for that, but any car you want to buy get it up to operating temp and let it sit there or drive it, take it on the highway, make sure it won't overheat, drives straight, etc. etc..
Also pop the hood and check the inside of the 2 front fenders for the toyota stickers. easiest way to tell if a front acident has occured replacement fenders will not have the sticker unless replaced by a certified toyota center which rarely happens anyways. missing sticker, you ask what the accident was, and then look over the rest of the body very carefully if you are still interested. If they wont tell you then its probably a good idea to walk away. If they tell you and it was something minor then look over it to verify and it was just minor then its a good bargaining point and you know what you are getting.
04-25-14, 03:45 PM
#12
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As per the Toyota Soarer Service Manual, timing belt should be changed at 100,000kms (60,000miles) so the guy could be telling the truth about timing belt being done
04-25-14, 04:00 PM
#13
04-25-14, 05:01 PM
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I asked for both Vin numbers on the cars. Hopefully i receive them. I asked the 96 sc owner for a carfax/history report he said he'd send me it in the mail...still trying to decide and I will take those things into consideration while test driving.
Appreciate all the input it is very helpful
Appreciate all the input it is very helpful