I have HID Lights (don't know what brand; they came on the car when purchased), and as of recently I've noticed my headlights have changed color; though it's not the glass housing, but I mean the "light" itself. They used to look White (or Yellow depending on the angle) like so:
Now, I (clearly) have one Blue, and one Yellow, as seen here:
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Swap the right and left bulbs to see if its a problem with the bulb itself or with the ballast. Most cheap aftermarket bulbs will change color gradually over time. With all these $40 eBay kits floating around I'm surprised they light up at all lol. I'd invest in some genuine Philips or Osram bulbs and retrofit some Hella ballasts in there. Not cheap but it will be OEM quality.
I've had my DDM HID's for about a month now and one light appears to have a green tint while it's warming up. I checked where I mounted my ballasts and they seemed a bit wet, which is frustrating since other posts here on CL say that was a dry location.
I have a feeling it has somehing to do with the ballasts and wires being wet. The weather has been extremely rainy here lately, we'll see if anything changes once things dry up. Otherwise at lead DDM has a lifetime warranty.
The dimmed light goes out once in a while; I have to flick the lights on and off again to illuminate it.
I swapped the ballasts, and same thing on the other side; only the good ballast lit up.
However, the side that originally dimmed, was still dim.
They've always been blue while warming up, but now it just stays blue, as per the pics.
Does this mean I need a new bulb, and a new ballast?
i got diode dynamics HID kits, waterproof and shockproof housings and super small too, the ballast is the size of a small wallet. never had any problems, had em on my xb for 2 years, now just plugged in some other bulbs on my SC and still work awesome.
In my experience if you just hook the HID kit up to the factory harness for the lights, you will have ignitor or bulb problems in the short run if your car has other electrical issues, or even in the long run if you don't because these circuits are not deisgned for the initial burst of load the ignitor needs, and usually its the ignitor/ballast that goes bad first when it is trying to fire and fails to.
The answer is the very very inexpensive HID relay harness they sell online, when using those on cars that pop bulbs or ignitors left and right the relay harness has always taken care of the issue and with working ignitors the problem doesn't happen again because it draws power straight from the battery. worth a shot if you still connect your ignitors straight to the SC harness try the relay harness.
1995 Lexus SC300 5spd Na-T ( TT Ecu Mod + a few others)