SliC300

iTrader: (4)

So in the process of converting my '92 auto to manual (w58 and sc300 pedals, ds, etc.) I decided to change my rear main seal. The process itself was not too bad, but when it came time to put the housing back on, I realized that it probably needs to be torqued (doesn't everything ). Not wanting to wash my hands to jump on the interwebs to find the proper specs, I decided to do a quick search on the matter on my phone.

I found a source that stated that the torque was to be 11 ft/lbs, and believing this to be true and not wanting to double check, I proceed to whip out my torque wrench. Now, at this point, they are already in the block, and the housing is hand tightened. But I proceed to "torque them down" to the "proper" spec. As I go on, it seems that they were in fact loose as ******, so I think to myself "wow, I guess you do have to torque them..."

After about three or so passes, I begin to wonder when the wrench is going to click, indicating that torque has been reached. Eventually, one does and I think to myself "cool, a few more to go." the second one also clicks and as I proceed to the third bolt, it also clicks but this time its different: the bolt fell out...

At this point I am in a panic, "WTF did i just DO!" I wonder, and check the other two that "clicked." Sure enough, there were loose, in other words broken My heart immediately sank and I texted a good friend. He proceded to tell me that the torque was actually in the ~40 inch/lbs range. I had applied about 3x the necessary torque...

Needless to say, it was a major set back, as I had only a few days to complete the swap before school began again after Xmas break, and as of now it is still sitting there with the broken bolts in the block.

So now the question for you, CL, is: What is the best way you know of to remove a broken dolt that has about a 1/4 inch diameter? Bolt extraction bits seems like the way to go, but I am a little worried that the bolt is too small. Also, they were torqued at 3x spec, so would that mess with the threading in the block? Also, if that were the case, would it be easier to drill out a majority of the bolt and tap the holes again?

Anyones input as to how I can remove these freaking bolts would be awesome, as I am trying to finish, for reals this time, in the spring.

TheAzn

iTrader: (2)

I would try to extract the broken bolt first to see if that will work. If it does, hopefully the threads in the block is fine so all you would need is a new bolt. If it doesn't, then I'll take it a step further.

I'm starting to make a habit of replacing bolts that require torqueing. Bolts stretches when you tighten them so they're somewhat weaker next time you tighten them. Especially overtighten.

Provide a picture, there could be other ways to remove a broken bolt without having to drill and tap
a larger hole.

alex425

iTrader: (1)

As Long as you don't use to large of a reverse drill bit to back out the screw, you will be fine. Just apply plenty of pressure from the back of the drill when backing it so the teeth grab it. Good luck

Zinik

iTrader: (1)

any pics of the situation??

ttyR2

The fact that they broke from being torqued and not from being rusted means something like a reverse drill bit will probably spin them right out (provided you didn't put Loctite on them). Might shoot a little WD40 in the holes so the threads are lubed and it'll spin out even easier. Just be sure the clean the holes with carb cleaner so they are dry before putting new bolts in.

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

I actually did this on my first jz haha, and I got the bolt right out. Have you even attempted to mess with it? it should come out pretty simple. IIRC, I used a little pick tool and needle nose pliers. Honestly, there are a number of things that you can disregard torque specs on and just use good judgement. this is one of them. Set the tq wrench to the correct spec when you go back to put it on, then you'll see how much effort/resistance is involved. You'll never have the problem again. Just make it snug, not tight.

sayayin

iTrader: (2)

easiest way is to weld another bolt to take them off, or just leave it like that, I have two missing tops bolt on my tranny with my 1jz and never had any issues. I always usually tight them good with no torque wrench, I only use the torque wrench on flywheel, clutch and inside motor bolts.

jwin

iTrader: (16)

I would use a easy out but the snap on one and drill the bolt right in the center. I do it all the time with 1/4 bolts at work. The bigger the hole you drill the more flex you can have to remove the bolt, but not too much cause then your easy out won't have anything to grab onto. You can always go to sears and buy the bolt extractor and follow the directions on what size drill bit to use.

SliC300

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the input guys. I'll try to get a picture soon. Also, I just left the housing on the block as I was incredibly depressed after the fact lol. I am hoping that the bolts are somewhat still intact in the tread, and that jus the upper part got twisted but I guess we'll see.

SliC300

iTrader: (4)

Also, if I remember correctly, one bolt had the head snap off (the one that alerted me to the situation) but the others are broken a little deeper in I think. So I figure that the one that the head snapped off of I may be able to get some pliers and twist it out.

TheAzn

iTrader: (2)

Yep! If the head is the only thing that snapped, then just remove the housing. You'll expose the threaded part which should be long enough for you to fit a locking plier on it.

I had the same situation on my old Corolla. I was unbolting the water pump and the head broke off. It took me a while to think WTF to do. Then I was like "well if I took the pump off, there's still an expose threaded part of the bolt....".... yep...WORKED OUT!

SliC300

iTrader: (4)

Man, I wish it wasnt so damn cold right now, I'd definitely get those suckers out.

SliC300

iTrader: (4)

So I got a bolt extraction kit from Harbor Freight, cost ~$7.00. I hope it works... Thinking I'll do this around spring break...