Help on Mods please..
11-29-12, 08:35 PM
#1
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Help on Mods please..
Also I have read that a good mod that I have done is to jump the fp to the +b terminal in the diagnostic box under the hood to bypass the FP ECM. After I did this mod I noticed a much more responsive pedal but am I causing harm?.
I also did the BFI along with removing the 2 rear resonators.What else can be done for simple free or cheap mods?
11-30-12, 01:54 PM
#4
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I seen this on an older thread here on CL . First does this work and second where is this wire if it does work.
Also I have read that a good mod that I have done is to jump the fp to the +b terminal in the diagnostic box under the hood to bypass the FP ECM. After I did this mod I noticed a much more responsive pedal but am I causing harm?.
I also did the BFI along with removing the 2 rear resonators.What else can be done for simple free or cheap mods?
Also I have read that a good mod that I have done is to jump the fp to the +b terminal in the diagnostic box under the hood to bypass the FP ECM. After I did this mod I noticed a much more responsive pedal but am I causing harm?.
I also did the BFI along with removing the 2 rear resonators.What else can be done for simple free or cheap mods?
11-30-12, 03:11 PM
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I do know that jumping the FP on my SC helped the throttle response a LOT, with my other car its a well known mod and helped a lot from stock to me running 11s now... No need to have the FP running variable speeds its harder on the FP anyway. What I really wanna know about is this trans mod
11-30-12, 03:15 PM
#7
It's not a waste of gas, it's a waste of voltage. It will hum and run when you only want to just listen to the radio.
Hooking the FP ECU back in is equally retarded as it is to remove it, so the proper way to do this "Mod" is to wire a relay direct from the battery, fused like an audio amp, and using the 12v+ switched from the most forward key position.
There is no reason for the FP ECU other then to showcase Toyota's ability to implement leading edge technology in thier $50k car from 1992, which based on inflation is around 80 grand worth of car for the time with like 10 CPU's.
Good idea Toyota, but a solid 12v+ to the fuel pump is the only way to play.
Hooking the FP ECU back in is equally retarded as it is to remove it, so the proper way to do this "Mod" is to wire a relay direct from the battery, fused like an audio amp, and using the 12v+ switched from the most forward key position.
There is no reason for the FP ECU other then to showcase Toyota's ability to implement leading edge technology in thier $50k car from 1992, which based on inflation is around 80 grand worth of car for the time with like 10 CPU's.
Good idea Toyota, but a solid 12v+ to the fuel pump is the only way to play.
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12-01-12, 04:26 PM
#9
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
It's not a waste of gas, it's a waste of voltage. It will hum and run when you only want to just listen to the radio.
Hooking the FP ECU back in is equally retarded as it is to remove it, so the proper way to do this "Mod" is to wire a relay direct from the battery, fused like an audio amp, and using the 12v+ switched from the most forward key position.
There is no reason for the FP ECU other then to showcase Toyota's ability to implement leading edge technology in thier $50k car from 1992, which based on inflation is around 80 grand worth of car for the time with like 10 CPU's.
Good idea Toyota, but a solid 12v+ to the fuel pump is the only way to play.
Hooking the FP ECU back in is equally retarded as it is to remove it, so the proper way to do this "Mod" is to wire a relay direct from the battery, fused like an audio amp, and using the 12v+ switched from the most forward key position.
There is no reason for the FP ECU other then to showcase Toyota's ability to implement leading edge technology in thier $50k car from 1992, which based on inflation is around 80 grand worth of car for the time with like 10 CPU's.
Good idea Toyota, but a solid 12v+ to the fuel pump is the only way to play.
12-01-12, 09:01 PM
#10
I also agree!! I have a FP rewire I made on my GTP, in time I will make one for the SC but this works for now and as I said it runs better feels better. I still wanna know about the tranny mod (cutting the pink/black stripped wire which controls solenoid 4) Where do I find this wire on the ECM. also is the ECM under the passenger side kick panel the one I need to look at?
Everything is explained in this thread.
12-04-12, 04:54 PM
#11
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Well I did the trans mod and WOW what a difference it made a 2-1 down shift from about 25-30MPH causes the TCS to activate LOL! The shifts are much more Firm and feel much better! Very happy with this Mod !
12-04-12, 07:35 PM
#12
You should look into the Transgo Shift kit. I'm finally getting my car tomorrow after having it installed. I'll post my results tomorrow.
12-10-12, 07:46 AM
#13
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
The switch sounds like a good idea, when you have it "on" does your O/D light still flash? I get the trans code 67 because I have it unplugged. Send me a link please of where you get the shift kit.
Last edited by 1Fast99GTP; 12-10-12 at 07:51 AM.
12-10-12, 09:15 AM
#14
Hooking the FP ECU back in is equally retarded as it is to remove it, so the proper way to do this "Mod" is to wire a relay direct from the battery, fused like an audio amp, and using the 12v+ switched from the most forward key position.
There is no reason for the FP ECU other then to showcase Toyota's ability to implement leading edge technology in thier $50k car from 1992, which based on inflation is around 80 grand worth of car for the time with like 10 CPU's.
Good idea Toyota, but a solid 12v+ to the fuel pump is the only way to play.
There is no reason for the FP ECU other then to showcase Toyota's ability to implement leading edge technology in thier $50k car from 1992, which based on inflation is around 80 grand worth of car for the time with like 10 CPU's.
Good idea Toyota, but a solid 12v+ to the fuel pump is the only way to play.
for the record I had this 12V mod done on my car as an na-t, and I didn't notice any improvement in power or anything like that at all. I actually undid it and am running the stock fuel ecu now, I really noticed no difference at all down low, in transition to boost, and in full boost.
I have never seen the wideband dip lean, If your fuel ecu works this mod is not necessary, unless you can make large amounts of boost down low with a 2-step or something. In short it works for me just fine the factory way, but I do have a walboro in the tank.
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