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Tinting isn't supposed to be this hard....

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Old 11-16-12, 03:31 PM
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SC400slide
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Default Tinting isn't supposed to be this hard....

A couple months ago I got some 20% Tint for the passengers side window from Wally World. The Drivers side had 50% tint I think. This is a 1992 SC400 as you all probably know, But anyway, The first time I tried tinting the window, it creased and wasn't sliding around, (btw, I used boatloads of soapy water to apply), and it was windy anyway so I wasted that tinting. I threw it away. Later, when I finally got it into the garage, (no wind and such), we got to applying the tint, again. Like usual, used lots of soapy water cuts were really good, but than near the end there the tint creased. Look's like crap up close but the tint is still blocking the sun from the interior. (back windows aren't done either). My Question: Is tinting supposed to be this hard? My Dad said he tinted his Isuzu Trooper when he got it new in the early 90s, and that is was like breathing. As for the SC400, the window goes all 4 ways. The molding of the window is up, down, left, right, everywhere. Has anyone else DIY the tinting on their SC? And if so, how hard was it? It is just really hard for me to tint these windows. My Dad was helping too and he was surprised that it was so difficult, or is it meant out to be a Tint shop thing? That will cost me money I don't have on something that isn't that hard. Thoughts?
Old 11-16-12, 04:16 PM
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Did you heat shrink it? The windows of our SC's are curved unlike other cars. Heat shrinking the tint is really necessary. Plus, if the window weather gaskets are dry and the furry finish is gone, then the tint wouldn't slide in like its supposed too even with lotsa soapy water.
Old 11-16-12, 04:34 PM
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i tried to tint my windows this summer and it ended with me crumpling the roll of tint and kicking it across the driveway and then stomping on it.

What huge pain in the ***.

Im taking it to a tint shop next summer.
Old 11-16-12, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by KingPhilip
Did you heat shrink it? The windows of our SC's are curved unlike other cars. Heat shrinking the tint is really necessary. Plus, if the window weather gaskets are dry and the furry finish is gone, then the tint wouldn't slide in like its supposed too even with lotsa soapy water.
I have never heard of heat shrinking it...that sounds like it would work...so would it melt the creases to were you don't notice them or do you have to start out without creases completely. My window gaskets are really good condition but I don't know what you mean by furry finish...Nice to see you by the way Kingphilip, you haven't posted lately that I've noticed..thanks so much for the pro tip! I will end up re doing the tint if the car doesn't sell...
Old 11-16-12, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 1WILLY1
i tried to tint my windows this summer and it ended with me crumpling the roll of tint and kicking it across the driveway and then stomping on it.

What huge pain in the ***.

Im taking it to a tint shop next summer.
I felt like smashing the tinting as well... So annoying, especially when the wind picked up. Only windy when it's time to tint...It's pretty costly to take to it to a tint shop, isn't it?
over $100, right?
Old 11-16-12, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by SC400slide
I have never heard of heat shrinking it...that sounds like it would work...so would it melt the creases to were you don't notice them or do you have to start out without creases completely. My window gaskets are really good condition but I don't know what you mean by furry finish...Nice to see you by the way Kingphilip, you haven't posted lately that I've noticed..thanks so much for the pro tip! I will end up re doing the tint if the car doesn't sell...
You're getting the idea. You can watch some DIY vids on YouTube on how to do it. It takes a few couple tries to get it right. Also, the sticky part of the tint is really really sensitive, so wind blows dust'll get to it that quick and the tint is trash, if it comes in contact with anything, dust gets to it and again it's trash. So you really need to do it indoors and be really really careful. Check the side of the window gasket that's in contact with the glass window, it should look like furry, like felt paper. If the furr is gone, then the rubber is the one in contact to the glass, and that'll push the tint enough to make it stick to glass as you try to slide it downwards. I do tinting occasionally. And took me a few couple tries my first time doing it. I've always been here on CL, just moving slow, 'cause September was a bday month for my family, and now Xmas is coming... Lol Ballin' on a budget 'til after the holidays...
Old 11-16-12, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by KingPhilip
You're getting the idea. You can watch some DIY vids on YouTube on how to do it. It takes a few couple tries to get it right. Also, the sticky part of the tint is really really sensitive, so wind blows dust'll get to it that quick and the tint is trash, if it comes in contact with anything, dust gets to it and again it's trash. So you really need to do it indoors and be really really careful. Check the side of the window gasket that's in contact with the glass window, it should look like furry, like felt paper. If the furr is gone, then the rubber is the one in contact to the glass, and that'll push the tint enough to make it stick to glass as you try to slide it downwards. I do tinting occasionally. And took me a few couple tries my first time doing it. I've always been here on CL, just moving slow, 'cause September was a bday month for my family, and now Xmas is coming... Lol Ballin' on a budget 'til after the holidays...
OOOOH, okay...that furry felt fuzz between the window and the rubber trim! I know what your talking about now. Yes, it is all still there. They should have a name for that fuzz...any pointers on tinting the curved windows? (tricks and such) Thanks for the tips and help! I stink at tinting so this is really helpful.
Old 11-16-12, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by SC400slide
I felt like smashing the tinting as well... So annoying, especially when the wind picked up. Only windy when it's time to tint...It's pretty costly to take to it to a tint shop, isn't it?
over $100, right?
yea it was windy when i did it too,,,,,,and im not sure the price but I think its well over $100.00 for a reputable shop to tint your car.....im guessing $2-300 minimum.
Old 11-16-12, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 1WILLY1
yea it was windy when i did it too,,,,,,and im not sure the price but I think its well over $100.00 for a reputable shop to tint your car.....im guessing $2-300 minimum.
And I'm not gonna spend even $100 to tint my windows. I'll live with it creased if I have too...it's windy 85% of the time here in NM, if it's not windy, it's breezy, and if there isn't any movement, than it's not New Mexico.
Old 11-16-12, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by SC400slide
OOOOH, okay...that furry felt fuzz between the window and the rubber trim! I know what your talking about now. Yes, it is all still there. They should have a name for that fuzz...any pointers on tinting the curved windows? (tricks and such) Thanks for the tips and help! I stink at tinting so this is really helpful.
You're gonna need a heat gun to heat shrink the tint. Only advice I can give you is when you're heating it, use gloves or a damp cloth to wipe the 'fingers' (bubbles) out while heating it. And try to heat as much area as you can, don't focus on just one area in particular, 'cause after heating it a few times it'll melt the tint, which is obviously bad. It takes a lot of practice before you can get a hang of it, by the time you're good at it, it's like paying a shop to do it for you already, lol.
Old 11-16-12, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by KingPhilip
You're gonna need a heat gun to heat shrink the tint. Only advice I can give you is when you're heating it, use gloves or a damp cloth to wipe the 'fingers' (bubbles) out while heating it. And try to heat as much area as you can, don't focus on just one area in particular, 'cause after heating it a few times it'll melt the tint, which is obviously bad. It takes a lot of practice before you can get a hang of it, by the time you're good at it, it's like paying a shop to do it for you already, lol.
Since I'm on this thread anyway, I'll ask. How much would a bare bones heat gun cost? Would a small torch work? Could something be supplemented instead of a heat gun, cuz I don't think I have one...
Old 11-16-12, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by SC400slide
Since I'm on this thread anyway, I'll ask. How much would a bare bones heat gun cost? Would a small torch work? Could something be supplemented instead of a heat gun, cuz I don't think I have one...
I bought mine on sale for $50. I don't think there's anything else hot enough to shrink it but not burn it. I'd just suggest buying one to use, then just return it after use. I always do that, lol. I know I'm ghetto, but what are you?! Lol
Old 11-16-12, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by KingPhilip
I bought mine on sale for $50. I don't think there's anything else hot enough to shrink it but not burn it. I'd just suggest buying one to use, then just return it after use. I always do that, lol. I know I'm ghetto, but what are you?! Lol
I'm ghetto as well. I "buy" the muffler chain cutter just to return it the next day...lol Rats, I was hoping a simple blow drier would work...
Old 11-16-12, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 1WILLY1
i tried to tint my windows this summer and it ended with me crumpling the roll of tint and kicking it across the driveway and then stomping on it.

What huge pain in the ***.

Im taking it to a tint shop next summer.
Lol thats pretty funny the way you put it
Old 11-16-12, 07:02 PM
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^^^lol joey ,,yea really frustrating man,,I wont be trying that again anytime soon.


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