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I've been wanting to do this interior lighting for a long time

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Old 08-18-12, 06:52 PM
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ecob30
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It's always good to see ideas that push the envelope. I would also like to see a video of this.
Old 09-10-12, 07:07 PM
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O. L. T.
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More work on the interior tonight. I've been messing with these for years, but since I decided I liked the runner strips up top I am going to finish this project I started in 2007. See if you can figure out what it is The stock cluster face is being replace with a clear plexi unit, then the plexi will be covered in a custom overlay I designed. The one thing I can't get the camera to show is the waterfall effect I designed into it where the colors merge. It's so nice in person where they blend in. These are my "beaters".




Attached Thumbnails I've been wanting to do this interior lighting for a long time-img_0653.jpg   I've been wanting to do this interior lighting for a long time-img_0663.jpg   I've been wanting to do this interior lighting for a long time-img_0666.jpg  

Last edited by O. L. T.; 09-10-12 at 07:10 PM.
Old 09-10-12, 08:56 PM
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pieisgude
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You sir are quite the magician. I wanna see more!
Old 10-14-12, 07:15 PM
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O. L. T.
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Originally Posted by pieisgude
You sir are quite the magician. I wanna see more!
Wish granted. I am doing the radio now. Just about got the whole car done.

Just trying to decide on a color. Been putting a design together all week and going back and forth on colors. Colors do not burn at the same voltage. if you put say.... a green and white together the green will light and the white won't. The green draws more amperage and more priority over the white in the circuit. When I pick a color I have to set the voltage up then set the frequency to 38hz so the on time of the led's is low. That way I can hit them harder and brighter, but they are only on for a third the time of an led running lower voltage and hotter output. By using the R/C Time Constant you can burn LED's much brighter than their are rated for without killing the gates in the diodes. I've been underclocking the speedometer cluster frequency for years so people can have brighter needles and backlight and lower temperatures on the led gates. That's why people who don't know what the hell they are doing sticking led's in there at full clock speed burn them out sooner (and they usually look like crap anyway just stuck in there). I am clocking the entire car's lighting at 38HZ on high power and 48 hz on medium power and putting a potentiometer in the console to control it all centrally (almost like the dimmer ****, but for the frequency and voltage controller rather than just controlling resistance).

LOL, I just noticed the frequency counter is clearly on 38 hz in the background.

In other words, it's gonna be hawt without being hot. Now I just have to decide on color.
Attached Thumbnails I've been wanting to do this interior lighting for a long time-img-20121014-00046.jpg   I've been wanting to do this interior lighting for a long time-img-20121014-00053.jpg   I've been wanting to do this interior lighting for a long time-img-20121014-00056.jpg   I've been wanting to do this interior lighting for a long time-img-20121014-0004.jpg  

Last edited by O. L. T.; 10-14-12 at 08:25 PM.
Old 10-16-12, 06:42 AM
  #20  
ishootstuf
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So how do you integrate a PWM circuit and still use the factory copper trace that supplies power to the LED's?
Old 10-16-12, 10:03 AM
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O. L. T.
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The factory system is already clocked, but really high near 60hz. If you design a modified circuit to change the clock speed, you set it at whatever you wish.
Old 10-16-12, 10:10 AM
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ishootstuf
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Originally Posted by O. L. T.
The factory system is already clocked, but really high near 60hz. If you design a modified circuit to change the clock speed, you set it at whatever you wish.
For the needles, I can understand. Are you saying Lexus doesn't supply unmodulated power to the incandescent bulbs in the radio, cluster, etc?
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