My 1992 2jz-gte vvti
08-05-12, 08:18 PM
#34
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Today was productive:
-Ebay gave me my $$$ back for the amp that was broken...ordered a new amp.
-Did the wheel well harness relocation (pictured)
-Fixed my fuel level sender issue (pictured)
The harness relocation was just as described in the DIY FAQ. It took a little longer than I expected, but I also extended the airbag cable, routed the washer fluid cable and hood cable a little better. Good thing I decided to look into this today as a wire in the harness just began to get stripped.
...and the final product
:
Here is my fuel level sender fix/swap. I had a rusted out, fuel level sender that read the fuel level correctly, but the low light came on all the time even when full.
I ordered a used replacement, and when I went to install it I noticed there were some differences between the unit and mine. I tried to return the unit but the seller, just wasn't trying to be very helpful. So after the seller doing nothing, I decided to see if I could do a workaround.
I was lucky to have another gas tank I had ordered to replace my rusted one laying around. I test fit both units and saw that once they were in the tank, the float sat at the same height with both units and so did the low level sensor. I decided to try and swap the heads. (yes I could have just went to the junk yard and found the correct plug, spliced wires and made it work...fully aware)
I'm not sure on which years the level sending units change, but with this swap or swapping plugs you can make it work if you get stuck like I did.
This is my fuel level sending unit. I bent part of it, but eventually I bent it back. Notice the 3 places to connect one the unit:
This is the one I was sold. Only two places to connect:
Side by side comparison:
To swap the heads, I drilled out just the very top hat of the 3 rivets:
This is what is on the other side of the 3 rivets. There has to be a contact all the way through to make this work. This is why you only drill out just enough to take the hat off the rivet:
Gently slide a flat head screw driver and pull the head off.
This is what will be left:
Do this again to the other unit:
With both heads off, I compared the mounting points. Perfect match:
Slide the old head onto the new sending unit. Once it is on, solder the 3 points, and insure proper contact.
Plugs up perfect:
Next, you need to make a point for the third wire to ground to the unit. I decided to use a male connector attached it to a wire on one end with a screw loop connector on the other.
I had to cut off the blue part so it would slide into the connector:
Slide it into the wire's connector:
Connect the wire to one of the screws around the outside. That's it, your done:
First time I tested it, my fuel gauge was dead. I realized my soldering points were not done well. I did them again and epoxied the head to the base...then it worked perfect
-Ebay gave me my $$$ back for the amp that was broken...ordered a new amp.
-Did the wheel well harness relocation (pictured)
-Fixed my fuel level sender issue (pictured)
The harness relocation was just as described in the DIY FAQ. It took a little longer than I expected, but I also extended the airbag cable, routed the washer fluid cable and hood cable a little better. Good thing I decided to look into this today as a wire in the harness just began to get stripped.
...and the final product
: Here is my fuel level sender fix/swap. I had a rusted out, fuel level sender that read the fuel level correctly, but the low light came on all the time even when full.
I ordered a used replacement, and when I went to install it I noticed there were some differences between the unit and mine. I tried to return the unit but the seller, just wasn't trying to be very helpful. So after the seller doing nothing, I decided to see if I could do a workaround.
I was lucky to have another gas tank I had ordered to replace my rusted one laying around. I test fit both units and saw that once they were in the tank, the float sat at the same height with both units and so did the low level sensor. I decided to try and swap the heads. (yes I could have just went to the junk yard and found the correct plug, spliced wires and made it work...fully aware)
I'm not sure on which years the level sending units change, but with this swap or swapping plugs you can make it work if you get stuck like I did.
This is my fuel level sending unit. I bent part of it, but eventually I bent it back. Notice the 3 places to connect one the unit:
This is the one I was sold. Only two places to connect:
Side by side comparison:
To swap the heads, I drilled out just the very top hat of the 3 rivets:
This is what is on the other side of the 3 rivets. There has to be a contact all the way through to make this work. This is why you only drill out just enough to take the hat off the rivet:
Gently slide a flat head screw driver and pull the head off.
This is what will be left:
Do this again to the other unit:
With both heads off, I compared the mounting points. Perfect match:
Slide the old head onto the new sending unit. Once it is on, solder the 3 points, and insure proper contact.
Plugs up perfect:
Next, you need to make a point for the third wire to ground to the unit. I decided to use a male connector attached it to a wire on one end with a screw loop connector on the other.
I had to cut off the blue part so it would slide into the connector:
Slide it into the wire's connector:
Connect the wire to one of the screws around the outside. That's it, your done:
First time I tested it, my fuel gauge was dead. I realized my soldering points were not done well. I did them again and epoxied the head to the base...then it worked perfect
08-06-12, 11:45 AM
#35
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I received the Marine JL sub today to install it into the rear deck. It's a 10 inch infinite baffle sub that will be powered by the 5 channel JL amp on order. Pics to follow.
08-07-12, 04:56 PM
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I did my headlights today. I posted this elsewhere, and though it belonged with my progress also:
Initial clean - Hand Rub: White wall tire cleaner/Mean Green cleaner 3:1 respectively (takes out yellowing and UV coating)
Then wet sand with 3 inch round sandpaper with foam backing and drill 500, 1000, 2000, 4000 grits.
Wipe down with alcohol to look for imperfections after each sanding level..
Then, apply Helmsmans urethane spar/mineral spirits mix (50/50 mix) with blue shop paper towels. Fold paper towels to about 1 inch wide and apply lightly the mix to prevent lines or drips. Only do one pass or you will risk streaks. Another thing I noticed that causes streaks is a mix that isn't fresh.
If you need to redo the lenses, you can use mineral spirits to clean of UV mix. Make sure this is completely off the lens and then reapply the UV mix. Shouldn't take more than 1/2 - 1 oz of mix.
Here are the results, looks better in person:
from this ...
After wipe to remove yellowing with initial cleaner...
After the 500, 1000, 2000 & 4000 grit sandpaper and wipe with alcohol...
to this after UV coating...
If your in Fort Lauderdale FL and want me to do this for you send me a PM
Initial clean - Hand Rub: White wall tire cleaner/Mean Green cleaner 3:1 respectively (takes out yellowing and UV coating)
Then wet sand with 3 inch round sandpaper with foam backing and drill 500, 1000, 2000, 4000 grits.
Wipe down with alcohol to look for imperfections after each sanding level..
Then, apply Helmsmans urethane spar/mineral spirits mix (50/50 mix) with blue shop paper towels. Fold paper towels to about 1 inch wide and apply lightly the mix to prevent lines or drips. Only do one pass or you will risk streaks. Another thing I noticed that causes streaks is a mix that isn't fresh.
If you need to redo the lenses, you can use mineral spirits to clean of UV mix. Make sure this is completely off the lens and then reapply the UV mix. Shouldn't take more than 1/2 - 1 oz of mix.
Here are the results, looks better in person:
from this ...
After wipe to remove yellowing with initial cleaner...
After the 500, 1000, 2000 & 4000 grit sandpaper and wipe with alcohol...
to this after UV coating...
If your in Fort Lauderdale FL and want me to do this for you send me a PM
Last edited by dlsoul87; 09-16-12 at 09:38 AM.
08-08-12, 10:45 PM
#37
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Today I tested the replacement JL 5 channel amp and JL marine 10' sub. They worked good this time. Hopefully I can get the install done tomorrow. The sub is going to need a custom spacer, and I will have to open possibly the hole for the sub a little more. I'm also going to try and find a good way to mount the amp. I want the trunk to look stock, if possible, as of now.
08-10-12, 06:22 PM
#38
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Today's update:
Added the 98 tailights (I'm now a member of the fast blinker club), and installed the new 5 channel JL audio amp and the 10 inch JL marine sub in the stock sub location. It's all going to come out again when I swap to my rust free gas tank and dynomat the car. I'll post better pictures then.
Added the 98 tailights (I'm now a member of the fast blinker club), and installed the new 5 channel JL audio amp and the 10 inch JL marine sub in the stock sub location. It's all going to come out again when I swap to my rust free gas tank and dynomat the car. I'll post better pictures then.
08-23-12, 07:24 PM
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Update for the week:
1. My 5 channel amp was bad, had to take it out and return it for a refund.
2. Changed my extremely rusted out gas tank, and fuel filter. When I pulled off the fuel filter, rusty gas came out...I also ordered a non rusted out fuel neck filler and fuel level sender from aliga. These will get swapped out next week once the parts arrive.
Old Gas Tank:
New, Non rusted gas tank:
Also changed all the old front suspension bushings. Upper and lower control arm and steering rack bushings. I went to a friends shop for some assistance since the front lca rear camber bolts were seized. We had to cut them off with a plasma cutter.
Burning out the old bushings:
The change in the way the car drives is amazing! Steering is nice and tight, the car no longer follows the lines in the road. Worth the pain in the *** that it was. Next week we will be dropping the rear subframe and replacing all the bushings in the rear. I already ordered new lower rear lca camber bolts for the rear since we already check to see if they were seized as well and they arrived today.
1. My 5 channel amp was bad, had to take it out and return it for a refund.
2. Changed my extremely rusted out gas tank, and fuel filter. When I pulled off the fuel filter, rusty gas came out...I also ordered a non rusted out fuel neck filler and fuel level sender from aliga. These will get swapped out next week once the parts arrive.
Old Gas Tank:
New, Non rusted gas tank:
Also changed all the old front suspension bushings. Upper and lower control arm and steering rack bushings. I went to a friends shop for some assistance since the front lca rear camber bolts were seized. We had to cut them off with a plasma cutter.
Burning out the old bushings:
The change in the way the car drives is amazing! Steering is nice and tight, the car no longer follows the lines in the road. Worth the pain in the *** that it was. Next week we will be dropping the rear subframe and replacing all the bushings in the rear. I already ordered new lower rear lca camber bolts for the rear since we already check to see if they were seized as well and they arrived today.
Last edited by dlsoul87; 08-26-12 at 09:48 AM.
08-29-12, 01:32 PM
#43
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Oh yeah forgot to tell you supa mag ... the lady you were speaking abouts name is Asne she is the owner with her husband .. I would follow up with that until they pay !!! as much as that lady nickels and dimes I would make sure to get your money !
08-29-12, 03:01 PM
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I know about her already. I had already had a wheel repaired by them in the past with no problems. This is just their mess up that they wanted to avoid paying for. It's my warning to others. My first experience was good, the second that told the story about, not so good as you saw. I've already done my research on them.
08-30-12, 12:33 AM
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Did my rear all the bushings in my rear suspension tonight. Had to cut the LCA camber bolts. The only bushing we did not replace were the UCA's. I decided not to do those as I plan on buying the BV UCA's that have the adjustable camber.
Not the greatest pictures since my battery was low and couldn't get my flash to work.
Picture of LCA with bushing burnt out:
Not the greatest pictures since my battery was low and couldn't get my flash to work.
Picture of LCA with bushing burnt out: