Up & Down Steering Wheel Free Play?
03-15-12, 06:44 AM
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Up & Down Steering Wheel Free Play?
I've noticed that I can bump up/down the steering wheel some and I was just curious to see what could cause this.
I don't see any movement on the shaft going to the rack in the engine bay.
It's almost like it's got half an inch of play ONLY up and down.
I don't see any movement on the shaft going to the rack in the engine bay.
It's almost like it's got half an inch of play ONLY up and down.
03-15-12, 07:42 AM
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Not really, everything functions normal (except for the in/out telescopic feature, up/down works without a problem).
There's no recommend fix in the FSM. D'oh
I've got new steering joints from another member I just haven't had the time to put them on.
There's no recommend fix in the FSM. D'oh
I've got new steering joints from another member I just haven't had the time to put them on.
03-15-12, 08:02 AM
#4
I don't think mine plays that much. But when I'm driving at highway speeds and hit bumps on the road, the steering wheel practically rattles...even with my 55 wall tires on stockers. When I put my 19"s on during the summer with 35 walls it drives terrible with steering play. I think it's the rack bushings though.
03-15-12, 08:06 AM
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I don't think mine plays that much. But when I'm driving at highway speeds and hit bumps on the road, the steering wheel practically rattles...even with my 55 wall tires on stockers. When I put my 19"s on during the summer with 35 walls it drives terrible with steering play. I think it's the rack bushings though.
My rack bushings are new daizens polyurethane installed about six months ago.
I don't suppose oil could really mess them up being they are polyurethane as I had a NASTY oil leak.
03-15-12, 09:15 PM
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I'll take a look for sure. I would be happy it that's all it was because in a rare junk yard car here someone had already taken the entire column out and left it in the there. Went back to get it the next day and they crushed the car after 13 days for a totaled riced out Camry to take its spot.
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03-17-12, 10:20 AM
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I figured it out. The motor over time had loosened it self (the up/down) so I had to use an Allen head and wrench to snug it back up.
I also retorqued to spec the stopper nuts at the top. I'm slightly confused as to what they do because one side has a ground strap which I assume stops something when it gets to high.
The steering wheel feels 100x better. For the first time in a year I was able to take my hands off the wheel at any speed. I also had no problem getting up to 130 MPH on the bridge here whereas normally I feel like my wheel is about to rattle off making me think something was wrong.
I took some pictures. I'll post later on today.
I also retorqued to spec the stopper nuts at the top. I'm slightly confused as to what they do because one side has a ground strap which I assume stops something when it gets to high.
The steering wheel feels 100x better. For the first time in a year I was able to take my hands off the wheel at any speed. I also had no problem getting up to 130 MPH on the bridge here whereas normally I feel like my wheel is about to rattle off making me think something was wrong.
I took some pictures. I'll post later on today.
03-19-12, 09:28 AM
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Uploaded pictures.
Don't torque it down too hard, or else it will strain the motor and possibly burn it up. You just want it snug enough to where there is no slack.
The second picture would be on the exact opposite side of the first picture.
Don't torque it down too hard, or else it will strain the motor and possibly burn it up. You just want it snug enough to where there is no slack.
The second picture would be on the exact opposite side of the first picture.
03-20-12, 10:32 AM
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It makes sense to me - the column will get the brunt of the vibration from the rack and loosen it slowly over time. I wonder if this might have something to do with the need for a washer on the inside cover over time.
You're still going to be able to force it up, but it will take a lot of tension on it upwards to hit the stop nuts (it's a safety feature).
If you take both covers off, while you're budging the wheel up and down you'll notice slack between the housing and the nut on the back. I could have put a feeler gauge under the nut on mine so it was pretty obvious what was loose.
You're still going to be able to force it up, but it will take a lot of tension on it upwards to hit the stop nuts (it's a safety feature).
If you take both covers off, while you're budging the wheel up and down you'll notice slack between the housing and the nut on the back. I could have put a feeler gauge under the nut on mine so it was pretty obvious what was loose.