TX: 1998 SC400VVTi W58 Swap finally finished!!!
12-15-13, 10:34 AM
#77
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Hello Everyone,
I haven't posted in some time. The car is in Houston again getting an R154 swap and some engine modifications that I will disclose when they are completed. So no pictures.......sorry!.
I did spend some time talking with my friend regarding the hesitation on acceleration that I described in my first posts. Really, it is the only thing that keeps the car from feeling like a factory-built five-speed manual. It turns out that he has the car set up so that the ECU thinks that it is in "Drive". Thus, when the ECU thinks that it is shifting it retards timing slightly in order to smooth the shift. Anyway, we discussed wiring it so that the ECU thinks that it is in neutral (what I believe that the Non-VVTi SC400 swaps have done) in order to try to eliminate the hesitation. This may cause issues with the cruise control and other things so he is not sure if it will work. I will let you guys know how it turns out when it is finished. My friend is working on some other projects right now so I may not have an answer for a little while.
I haven't posted in some time. The car is in Houston again getting an R154 swap and some engine modifications that I will disclose when they are completed. So no pictures.......sorry!.
I did spend some time talking with my friend regarding the hesitation on acceleration that I described in my first posts. Really, it is the only thing that keeps the car from feeling like a factory-built five-speed manual. It turns out that he has the car set up so that the ECU thinks that it is in "Drive". Thus, when the ECU thinks that it is shifting it retards timing slightly in order to smooth the shift. Anyway, we discussed wiring it so that the ECU thinks that it is in neutral (what I believe that the Non-VVTi SC400 swaps have done) in order to try to eliminate the hesitation. This may cause issues with the cruise control and other things so he is not sure if it will work. I will let you guys know how it turns out when it is finished. My friend is working on some other projects right now so I may not have an answer for a little while.
I personally did this swap so here's a little help...
You MUST install a switch or relay to start the car in PARK then switch to DRIVE before accelerating. If you don't then the car won't drive smoothly and you'll get a cel. I think if you set it to NEUTRAL all the time you'll end up with the same hesitations. If you're in DRIVE all the time you'll get a cel. I think your buddy might have pulled the cel bulb out. The only cel I have is for Speed Sensor A which I'm guessing was on the auto trans. But the speedo works so I'm happy. My car drives like factory with no hesitation. Use this method and you'll be a happy man
02-03-14, 11:38 AM
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I personally did this swap so here's a little help...
You MUST install a switch or relay to start the car in PARK then switch to DRIVE before accelerating. If you don't then the car won't drive smoothly and you'll get a cel. I think if you set it to NEUTRAL all the time you'll end up with the same hesitations. If you're in DRIVE all the time you'll get a cel. I think your buddy might have pulled the cel bulb out. The only cel I have is for Speed Sensor A which I'm guessing was on the auto trans. But the speedo works so I'm happy. My car drives like factory with no hesitation. Use this method and you'll be a happy man
You MUST install a switch or relay to start the car in PARK then switch to DRIVE before accelerating. If you don't then the car won't drive smoothly and you'll get a cel. I think if you set it to NEUTRAL all the time you'll end up with the same hesitations. If you're in DRIVE all the time you'll get a cel. I think your buddy might have pulled the cel bulb out. The only cel I have is for Speed Sensor A which I'm guessing was on the auto trans. But the speedo works so I'm happy. My car drives like factory with no hesitation. Use this method and you'll be a happy man
if your using the W58 drive shaft you will need to change the companion flange on the Diff side to the small style flange to accommodate the W58 drive shaft. all 98+ V8 cars i read are big style. so you'll need to pull one off 92-97 SC/GS (300 or 400 as from the data i read they use the same flange) at the salvage or order a new one which will run you about 120 at the dealer.
06-16-14, 07:24 PM
#82
Here's a thought: I know that SC's have a sensor on the parking brake to allow a dash light to come on. My factory manual car has this just like the rest of them. The ECU just gets no extra signal of course since the transmission is always in "neutral" to start. Well, there is the neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal but I disabled that since swapping to an R154.
Point being: if the switch is there on the parking brake lever, can't this extra switch to start the car in "Park" and then switch to "Drive" that Da Coupe mentioned he has in his car be tied directly to the circuit from the parking brake lever?
Barring that, a retracting toggle switch would be in order. Something that can't physically be left in the "Park" position and always goes back to "Drive" position.
That, or theoretically one could hook up the NSS on the SC clutch pedal to perform exactly this function. Although for factory 5-speed cars it's little more than a circuit interrupt until the pedal goes in, which completes the ignition circuit. I'm not aware of any crank walk issues with 1UZ engines the way JZ engines are known to have with R154 and V160's so this might be another possible solution...
Point being: if the switch is there on the parking brake lever, can't this extra switch to start the car in "Park" and then switch to "Drive" that Da Coupe mentioned he has in his car be tied directly to the circuit from the parking brake lever?
Barring that, a retracting toggle switch would be in order. Something that can't physically be left in the "Park" position and always goes back to "Drive" position.
That, or theoretically one could hook up the NSS on the SC clutch pedal to perform exactly this function. Although for factory 5-speed cars it's little more than a circuit interrupt until the pedal goes in, which completes the ignition circuit. I'm not aware of any crank walk issues with 1UZ engines the way JZ engines are known to have with R154 and V160's so this might be another possible solution...
Last edited by KahnBB6; 06-16-14 at 07:29 PM.
08-04-14, 05:52 PM
#86
Wow, another manual vvt-I 400 for sale eh? What's going on!? Lol.
Is there an issue with the manual swap on these cars I should know about before I dive in it myself? Or are you just switching it up?
Is there an issue with the manual swap on these cars I should know about before I dive in it myself? Or are you just switching it up?
08-04-14, 09:24 PM
#87
Nothing is wrong. I really love the car but God has sent me another Princess that arrives in a few weeks.
I have barely driven this car since it was swapped and I really can't use a small car anymore. Anything that I drive has to accomodate all of my girls. Thus, I've been using my LS430 as my daily driver. I'm selling all of my toys.
I have Streetking's extremely low mileage, Boost Logic SC 300 that will be listed for sale soon as well. I want someone else to enjoy these cars. They're too nice to be parked.
I have barely driven this car since it was swapped and I really can't use a small car anymore. Anything that I drive has to accomodate all of my girls. Thus, I've been using my LS430 as my daily driver. I'm selling all of my toys.
I have Streetking's extremely low mileage, Boost Logic SC 300 that will be listed for sale soon as well. I want someone else to enjoy these cars. They're too nice to be parked.
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