Skew

Today i was driving to the shop to get my car checked out. The oil light kept randomly turning on and off. I just did an oil change the day before and found it weird that this was happening. I was a few blocks from the shop when the metal chattering started, by the time i reached the shop it instantly turned into game over. The sound became a spun bearing. We got the car on the lift and pulled the Dipstick. It was bone dry, no sign of oil leaking anywhere. Ive been searching online to hopefully find a GTE block or have mine rebuilt. I am looking at between 3k-4k for a full rebuild with oversized pistons race bearings ect.

So my plan is to swap a GE block with a 2mm headgasket, ARP headstuds and have my GTE block rebuilt. This car is my daily for the time being so i am going to try and get this swap completed over a weekend time period.

Parts List:
2JZGE-Complete short block Anyone have a good one?
2mm HG-Still sourcing
ARP Headstuds
GTE Oil pump
GTE crank sensor(s)

Already having a GTE block you should be able to reuse the oil pan, lines, GTE ECU and retune on a AFC. Oil pump and sensor on the other hand im not to sure if mine failed or not so i will be replacing it

Now some area's i need to have a better understanding about is after removing the GTE head and putting it on the GE block where do the cams and crank need to be set. i am sure after i review the GE and GTE FSM again this should be answered. Also i need to make sure the Oil pump and sensors are a must.

Reference:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-few-pics.html
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...t-the-facts&s=
more to come

JustChill

iTrader: (9)

Most like u should replace the oil pump. Spun bearing equals metal shavings, and most likely ur pump picked all that up. That's IF u r using the gte pump. If not, let me just shut up. Lol.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I also agree with the above statement. I am in the middle of doing my swap and this is a must- replacing the oil pump. My question is if you have a monitoring device or gauge that shows loss of pressure, wouldnt it be worth not replacing this? In other words, if you know it isnt right, you should turn the car off immediatley and check the oil level. I know the part is only around 200 or so, might be worth the extra effort and time while the engine is apart if you plan on keeping it..

Tabaka

iTrader: (8)

Sounds like a bad situation my friend. I'd almost be inclined to take a look at drain plug on your engine to see if its still there. There is no reason why 5+ quarts of oil is missing in one day. I know my car is oil thirsty, but 5 quarts in 24 hours sounds a bit ridiculous. Even if your valve seals are completely gone, that much oil couldn't burn that fast. You would have seen heavy *** smoke when you started it up as well. Best of luck and hope you can get her back on the road. Hopefully you have a second car to take you to and from school or work.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

are you single turbo or twin turbo?
if you are single turbo it will cut the headaches in half , oil feed and return lines pita to make it work on the ge block.

You will need the followings
brand new IS/GS300 oil pump, cams seals and crank seal, rear main seal, oil filter housing O ring.
You don't have oil squirters on the ge block so the tt oil pump will not be needed. you just need a 96+ 2jzge oil pump.

Crank gear in front of the oil pump,and crank sensor you can reuse the old .

i will just use a tt headgasket , the 2mm hg is not needed.

make sure take the head to the machine shop have them clean it really good so you don't have metal shavings in it.
flush the dipstick tube, clean you oil pan .

and you should try to find out why is is burning that much oil, i wouldn't put a new engine together w/o finding out what's going on with that setup.