A little different headlight polishing technique...
11-27-11, 06:01 PM
#1
A little different headlight polishing technique...
For the second project on my "new" 92 SC400 I decided to tackle the lights. The lenses were cloudy and had scratches from what I assume was a previous attempt to restore them. Here are pics of the fine scratches with a light behind them...
I have seen several removel posts so I'll skip the basic removal process and get right to it. I've read where many have gone the 800 grit sandpaper, then 2000 grit, followed by polishing. I decided to try a different approach and went with Micro-Mark polishing cloths after the 2000 grit sandpaper. This is what model car builders use to get mirror shines on their projects and I'm pretty comfortable using it and thought this would give a better final finish.
I've not seen anyone really address technique when sanding so I'll touch on the subject for begginers. As you progress through your different grits switch direction of sanding 90 degrees. Here I am sanding lengthwise with 1200 grit sandpaper...
As I switched to the 2000 grit paper I would go in an"up & down" sanding direction.
The purpose for this is to help you feel when you are ready to progress to the next grit - you'll feel the difference as you sand and when the paper feels like it's dragging harder you've maxed-out the effectiveness of your current level. If you cross directions between grits it will also limit how much chasing old scratches you'll have to do later. Also notice the rubber block - when you are working with an optical acrylic and you just use your fingers you can dig grooves into the lense face that can affect light distribution. Another tip, use a bottle filled with 4 parts water to 1 part dishwashing soap to spray while sanding. It lubrucates the paper and removes the debris better than plain water.
After getting into the 2000 grit paper I started to notice variances in the "pull" of the paper across the lense. I dried the lense and realised I had cut through some coating. I wasn't sure if it was a factory UV coating or someone had painted it previously, I suspected the latter. I doubled-back to 400 grit and started over with the sanding. Grrrrr....
This was time-consuming even using the harsher grit...
I finally got it all off and started progressing through the grits again...
Here is what it looked like after getting to the 2000 grit level, and where I started using the sanding cloths...
The Micro-Mark sanding system is available in both cloth papers and sanding pads, like the one in the bottom of this picture. I found using the pads to be easier on this project.
I have seen several removel posts so I'll skip the basic removal process and get right to it. I've read where many have gone the 800 grit sandpaper, then 2000 grit, followed by polishing. I decided to try a different approach and went with Micro-Mark polishing cloths after the 2000 grit sandpaper. This is what model car builders use to get mirror shines on their projects and I'm pretty comfortable using it and thought this would give a better final finish.
I've not seen anyone really address technique when sanding so I'll touch on the subject for begginers. As you progress through your different grits switch direction of sanding 90 degrees. Here I am sanding lengthwise with 1200 grit sandpaper...
As I switched to the 2000 grit paper I would go in an"up & down" sanding direction.
The purpose for this is to help you feel when you are ready to progress to the next grit - you'll feel the difference as you sand and when the paper feels like it's dragging harder you've maxed-out the effectiveness of your current level. If you cross directions between grits it will also limit how much chasing old scratches you'll have to do later. Also notice the rubber block - when you are working with an optical acrylic and you just use your fingers you can dig grooves into the lense face that can affect light distribution. Another tip, use a bottle filled with 4 parts water to 1 part dishwashing soap to spray while sanding. It lubrucates the paper and removes the debris better than plain water.
After getting into the 2000 grit paper I started to notice variances in the "pull" of the paper across the lense. I dried the lense and realised I had cut through some coating. I wasn't sure if it was a factory UV coating or someone had painted it previously, I suspected the latter. I doubled-back to 400 grit and started over with the sanding. Grrrrr....
This was time-consuming even using the harsher grit...
I finally got it all off and started progressing through the grits again...
Here is what it looked like after getting to the 2000 grit level, and where I started using the sanding cloths...
The Micro-Mark sanding system is available in both cloth papers and sanding pads, like the one in the bottom of this picture. I found using the pads to be easier on this project.
Last edited by Murco; 11-28-11 at 04:26 PM.
11-27-11, 06:16 PM
#2
The Micro-Mark system starts at 2400 then goes to 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, then finally 12000. Here I am at the 6000 grit level, it's looking pretty amazing at this point!
After finishing with 12000 grit paper I put the lense to the reflector, what a shine! I hadn't even cleaned it at this point! The finish is so fine you feel like you're touching glass, there is no sensation of a plastic feeling now.
I did use Meguiers PlastX for the final polish and "Hi-Tech Wax" to protect it after reassembly.
After installation I noticed that the headlamp beam pattern on the lense was far more distinct and consistent. I wouldn't say this technique gives a superior result from others, it's just what I've used in the past and am comfortable with. I'm pleased with the final product and I recommend trying these pads on yours!
BTW - I have a set of disassembled HID headlamps from a 2003 M5 and experimented with the "angel eyes" while doing this project - WAY too big! lol
After finishing with 12000 grit paper I put the lense to the reflector, what a shine! I hadn't even cleaned it at this point! The finish is so fine you feel like you're touching glass, there is no sensation of a plastic feeling now.
I did use Meguiers PlastX for the final polish and "Hi-Tech Wax" to protect it after reassembly.
After installation I noticed that the headlamp beam pattern on the lense was far more distinct and consistent. I wouldn't say this technique gives a superior result from others, it's just what I've used in the past and am comfortable with. I'm pleased with the final product and I recommend trying these pads on yours!
BTW - I have a set of disassembled HID headlamps from a 2003 M5 and experimented with the "angel eyes" while doing this project - WAY too big! lol
11-27-11, 07:37 PM
#6
We do that at work sometimes, dry sand on a finish da starting with either 600 or 800, 1000, 1500 and sometimes finish with 3000 then bust out the buffer. Other times we go to 3000 then give em a coat of clear, those seem to last way longer, polishing only turns yellow pretty fast. Good job btw : )
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11-27-11, 08:40 PM
#8
Those look awesome! Thanks for the post....I just did mine last week and wasn't that happy with the results so I was planning on redoing them soon...I'll definitely use your method.
12-09-11, 05:20 PM
#11
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Mine had some oxidation on it. So it took the DA and used several types of waxs and some compound. Worked perfectly. Just put some wax on them every couple months or so to keep it protected.
