Gate

This thread is for my fellow idiots only!

If you are NOT an idiot like me, then do NOT read this thread!

Idiots have a tendency to be able to help other idiots.

Do not mention how stupid I am after reading this. I've learned some painful lessons and am better for it now, I need no reminding. Once again, I've already personally revealed my level of intelligence, I don't need an expansion on the subject.

Now, one of the first things you must do before changing your transmission fluid is do your best to not be an idiot anymore. This is best done by reading things that I've done so you can make sure you don't do them.

First of all, don't buy a 1992 SC400 if the transmission fluid is black (I've done tons of repairs and she's doing fine now, but I shouldn't have impatiently made the purchase - there are better deals out there). Let me tell you, it was BLACK. It's not necessary to take it up the bum in a private party sale.

Okay, so, regardless of the specific condition of your tranny fluid, the point is you want to change it. That's your choice. So get to it! Aww, yeah, this is gonna be so much fun, yeah, I'm gonna unscrew the drain plug after warming up the engine then loosen the pan bolts, oh the pan is kind of stuck, no worries I'll just pry it open STOP: next idiot spec to cover, some people tap the pan lightly with a rubber mallet after removing the bolts to loosen it, some people use safe plastic tools to pry it open and do just fine, but the point is you'd be surprised how many types of materials can damage the gearbox-pan mating surface and and how little effort it takes to screw it up. I noticed a pretty deep gouge there after using a kitchen butter knife myself. It hasn't caused any problems yet but I'm doomed to worry about it for quite some time. Be careful yo.

Yay, we got the pan off, you remove the old gasket and cleaned the pan spotless while making sure to rinse it thoroughly leaving no residue of any of your cleaning materials. You made sure no one overtightened it last time, which could have popped up the bolt holes in which case you gotta straighten them back out. Time to put your gasket on. Adhere it with minimal sealant or copper wires, but sealant goes on the bottom only. Do not put sealant on the top of the gasket. Do it how you see fit, but sealant on the top is no good. Wherever you do use it, don't glob it on like hooker lipstick.

Sorry, this was supposed to be a DIY, but I'm leaving out a lot of necessary tips and full procedure steps. I'm mainly just focusing on what not to do. Anyways, make sure you use the right fluid for your car (T-IV only for this car).

Also, if you're too lazy to disconnect the cooling line, then at least secure the pan properly each time between pan drops and drive a lot. Don't just let the engine run for a bit then drop the pan again. You'll lose way too much of the new stuff and get rid of way too little of the old stuff.

I basically just wanted to share stuff not to do. There are a million other things you shouldn't do. There are also several steps necessary for completing the job that I left out. Use this information in conjunction with a competent DIY. Don't say anything bad about this post unless you actually think that one of the things I said not to do should actually be done.

And if you're still mad about this even after that, just remember, I'm an idiot (but my car is doing well right now).