Steering wheel shakes BAD, brakes HOT!
09-13-11, 07:45 AM
#17
I gave up, I took a look at it, My Dad took a look at it. My dad thinks the master cylinder is leaking internally causeing the brakes not to release pressure correctly, which seems very possible. So Im taking it to the shop to have them verify it before I do any ordering of expensive parts :\
09-28-11, 05:48 PM
#19
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Dude, I am working with the same issue right now, except mine is only on the left front. I pulled the wheel off this afternoon, and found that one of the caliper's pistons was not releasing. When I tried to compress it back into the caliper, one of the pistons went in, but the other stayed put. I figure either a caliper rebuild or new caliper will fix the issue...though an LS400 upgrade sounds like a good idea too 
09-29-11, 07:56 AM
#21
I'm replacing all four calipers, rotors, pads, SS Brake lines, and flushing fluid this weekend. I'm also replacing all four shocks with new Tokico's and bleeding the powersteering system. If this doesn't change the vibration I'm going to drive this car to a wrecking yard.
09-29-11, 08:10 AM
#22
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ABS unit won't always throw a code, especially on an ODB1 car. There is a proportioning valve inside that directs the fluid to each wheel (from what I've read on it in our car).
When you compress one caliper piston in, with the bleeder closed the other one will push out. You have to compress both pistons at the exact same time OR open the bleeder when compressing the piston in.
When you compress one caliper piston in, with the bleeder closed the other one will push out. You have to compress both pistons at the exact same time OR open the bleeder when compressing the piston in.
09-29-11, 08:31 AM
#23
ABS unit won't always throw a code, especially on an ODB1 car. There is a proportioning valve inside that directs the fluid to each wheel (from what I've read on it in our car).
When you compress one caliper piston in, with the bleeder closed the other one will push out. You have to compress both pistons at the exact same time OR open the bleeder when compressing the piston in.
When you compress one caliper piston in, with the bleeder closed the other one will push out. You have to compress both pistons at the exact same time OR open the bleeder when compressing the piston in.
Is the solution to replace the ABS unit? I have no clue how to do that either. Simple job?
09-29-11, 07:23 PM
#24
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my '93 sc400 just started doing the same thing. shakes real bad and the front left caliper is sticking. I plan to take the tire and caliper off tomorrow and bang around on it for a while to see if I can fiqure out what the deal is. I'm gonna do a fluid flush too. totally weird how this all just started two days ago in the rain for no apparent reason.
keep us posted on what your mechanic says
keep us posted on what your mechanic says
10-03-11, 07:02 AM
#26
Replaced all four pads and rotors this weekend. All of the caliper pistons looked fine. I really thought I had a stuck caliper in the passenger rear. When I would pass through a tunnel or along a jersey wall I could hear a scratching noise. It sounded like a stuck caliper but the outside rotor looked fine and really didn't get very hot. So check this out cause I think this might be the vibration issue (at least for me).
So I pull the wheels off which is a nightmare in my situation due to multiple wheel locks and spacer bolts, change out the pads and rotors. Everything goes by smoothly until the test drive.
Loud Scratch Scratch Scratch as I drive down the road. "Shoot" I thought, maybe it's just the dust shield. So I take the wheel and spacer off the rear passenger side, push the dust shield out a bit and put everything back together. 2nd test drive, Scratch Scratch Scratch again?!?!
So I take the wheel and spacer off again, remove the caliper and rotor, inspect everything. I checked the emergency brake pins/spring set. Everything looks fine. Then I inspected the inside rear rotor and noticed what the problem is. The e-brake shoes are scraping against the inside of the rotor. I adjusted the tension gear at the bottom, put the rotor back on and spun it by hand. I could hear scraping but it wasn't as bad. So I loosened it up even more, and the sound gets lighter and lighter. I have a minimal scratching sound now, but my ebrake is basically not functional. I park on a steep hill when at home and my ebrake will not keep my vehicle stopped. So I have to park it on the street until I can figure this all out and put bricks behind my tires (ghetto lol).
On my commute this morning, I noticed that I have a lot less vibration at 50mph with new rotors and pads, but I bet my ebrake shoe has been slightly touching the inside rear right rotor this entire time only to feel vibration at heavy speeds since it's screwing with the balance of the car.
So, I see that autopart places sell new ebrake shoes, but I think the entire assembly should be replaced. Anyone else want to chime in and let me know what I should do?
So I pull the wheels off which is a nightmare in my situation due to multiple wheel locks and spacer bolts, change out the pads and rotors. Everything goes by smoothly until the test drive.
Loud Scratch Scratch Scratch as I drive down the road. "Shoot" I thought, maybe it's just the dust shield. So I take the wheel and spacer off the rear passenger side, push the dust shield out a bit and put everything back together. 2nd test drive, Scratch Scratch Scratch again?!?!
So I take the wheel and spacer off again, remove the caliper and rotor, inspect everything. I checked the emergency brake pins/spring set. Everything looks fine. Then I inspected the inside rear rotor and noticed what the problem is. The e-brake shoes are scraping against the inside of the rotor. I adjusted the tension gear at the bottom, put the rotor back on and spun it by hand. I could hear scraping but it wasn't as bad. So I loosened it up even more, and the sound gets lighter and lighter. I have a minimal scratching sound now, but my ebrake is basically not functional. I park on a steep hill when at home and my ebrake will not keep my vehicle stopped. So I have to park it on the street until I can figure this all out and put bricks behind my tires (ghetto lol).
On my commute this morning, I noticed that I have a lot less vibration at 50mph with new rotors and pads, but I bet my ebrake shoe has been slightly touching the inside rear right rotor this entire time only to feel vibration at heavy speeds since it's screwing with the balance of the car.
So, I see that autopart places sell new ebrake shoes, but I think the entire assembly should be replaced. Anyone else want to chime in and let me know what I should do?
10-03-11, 07:04 AM
#27
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Your e-brake shouldn't make contact until the ebrake handle is pulled up to engage it I believe.
It sounds like someone has adjusted it too much and it's worn down to the point it won't grip anymore.
The E-Brake shoes are just drum type shoes that hit the inside of the rotor. I'd just overhaul the rear brake system while I was in there, unless everything is new.
It sounds like someone has adjusted it too much and it's worn down to the point it won't grip anymore.
The E-Brake shoes are just drum type shoes that hit the inside of the rotor. I'd just overhaul the rear brake system while I was in there, unless everything is new.
10-03-11, 07:11 AM
#28
Your e-brake shouldn't make contact until the ebrake handle is pulled up to engage it I believe.
It sounds like someone has adjusted it too much and it's worn down to the point it won't grip anymore.
The E-Brake shoes are just drum type shoes that hit the inside of the rotor. I'd just overhaul the rear brake system while I was in there, unless everything is new.
It sounds like someone has adjusted it too much and it's worn down to the point it won't grip anymore.
The E-Brake shoes are just drum type shoes that hit the inside of the rotor. I'd just overhaul the rear brake system while I was in there, unless everything is new.
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