skipjagger

iTrader: (1)

did this swap like over a year ago and doing this post mostly from what crapy memory i have so im im wrong about someting PLEASE let me know so it can be changed and not misinform someone!!! ty also its a work in progress doing a little at a time when i have time please feel free topost any question you want dont worry i wont be all mean and say drrrrr there is that info everywhere on this sight and then procede to not give you the info... i hate when ppl do that


first pull that smelly old auto tranny pull off cat back exaust remove drivesahft, unbolt torque converter from flex plate. there is 6 bolts you axcess them from under the engine there is a little rubber thing you pull out and can then axcess these 6 bolts. its a good idea to disconnect the bat for this so you dont loose any fingers. put a big rachet or breaker bar on the crank snout bolt to turn the motor over to get all 6 bolts. then support tranny and the engine with 2 seperate jacks. unhook the shifter linkage and all plugs and wires off trans its easier if you lift the front of the engine up to get at a better angle to pull the trans out. then unbolt the tranny from the motor and throw it in the garbage where it belongs

this is a picture of the connector i put on the reverse switch its called a gm weather pack its supposed to be water proof i soldered the little make and female inside things on cause i dont trust crimps up to you though

picture of the female side of the connector for reverse lights notice the wire colors (red and yellow) i cant remember the colors of the wires for the nutral start/clutch start switch i just soldered and heat shrinked mine together so i can start the car without depressing the clutch ill find the wire color info if anyone knows please say so thx

see the gray connector that came off the auto tranny in this pic? the red and yellow wire going to this are the 2 wires that turn on the reverse lights cut thoes off the connector and solder the little inside pieces on them and put them in the female gm weatherpack connector (or any connector of your choice)

remove the flex plate AND the ring behind the flex plate DO NOT LEAVE THIS ON!!!

take out the canter console so it doesent get damaged and the autoshifter there is a screw or 2 under a cover on the auto shifter stick i forget now ether slide it up or down or take it off or w/e once you get the screws out pull up on the stick and it should come off then unplug everything and unbolt the whole assembly you may need to take off the shift cable to get it all the way out

bolt on your new flywheel to the torque speck given(dont have #s at ahnd please inform me if you know) it calls for an aditional 90 deg once the torque spec is reached. i took a 90 deg piece of card board and lined it up w/ the centerline and traced the 2 lines use thoes lines as a refference for the additional 90 deg. the sell/ rent a tool with a pointer but i dont think thats nessary just be as accurate as you can. then install the pilot bearing in the back of the crankshaft you can see it in the middle of the flywheel bolts in this picture. use a socket and jently tap it in a little at a time making sure to go around in a circle so it wont get weged in there crooked.

a pic of an "auto" tranny crossmember next to a "w58" tranny crossmember shhhh there the same!!!! apparently a lot of ppl think there not i bolted both in just incase and they both fit and they are the same lol

just a pic of the w58 front driveshaft half important thing when putting the 2 halfs together the universal joints must be "timed" there are 4 ways to put them together aka 4 bolt holes that al match up 2 are wrong and 2 are right

ok in these 2 pics the part of the universal that im pointing to must face up when the drivesahft is sitting like this



i bolted it together the wrong way just to show you what im talking about in the pic below
same pic just circled the ujoints again this is bolted together WRONG!!! just to show you what not to do and see the diffefence against the correct way

abounly

iTrader: (27)

Nice, do a detail swap!

I'm planning to do mine pretty soon, must take off tranny, pedals, and master cylinder from donor and transport it to mine!

skipjagger

iTrader: (1)

the pressure plate and clutch disk mounted, put in the alignment tool in the clutch disk then put the alignment tool into the pilot beraing/bushing that you installed in the back of the crank shaft it should hold the clutch disk up for you. then slide the pressure plate onto thealignment pins in your flywheel and tighten the bolts EVENLY!! not one at a time you can bend the pressure plate housing especially if its a high clamping force clutch.




in the pic below it shows the fire wall w/ the mounting holes for the clutch master cylinder cut/drilled out. on the inside of the fire wall next to the pedals you can see the black sound deadener material has a dimond shape pre cut in it. right under the sound deadener nexted to the brake pedal mounts (again in the inside under the dash) the holes are stamped out of the inside sheet metal. i just ***** punched the center of all 3 holes grabbed the correct size drill bit and hole saw and just drilled the holes out being carefull to debur AND throw a little primer on it so it wont rust later on. i got the hole saw at home depot they sell crapy one piece ones for pretty cheep. i THINK i used a 3/8 drilll bit cant remember but if you have a step bit the holes will come out neater. cant remember the hole saw size kust measure the cut out or the dia of the part that sticks through the fire wall. make sure to cut a slightly over sized hole or it will never line up. i think my hole was about 1/16 oversized.


the pic below is the fire wall under the dash after i drilled out the holes for the clutch master. the black crap got in the way and pissed me off so i cut it out. kinda wish i didnt lol but it was definatly a pain trying to bolt up the clutch pedal mount with it in there

skipjagger

iTrader: (1)

skipjagger

iTrader: (1)

ok thats all of them for the w58 i have a w58 shifter housing vs a r154 housing incase anyone needs to know the size differences for the swap


dont wanna confuse anyone this is an r154 tailhousing and me trying to fiit a 1 1/4 moved back w58 shifter housing on it doesent fit which is good for someone looking for a w58 cause i can sell one hole it sitting in my garage, taking up valuable space!! here a few pics of it the shifter linkage and hopusing will deffinatly be assembled if someone wants the tranny
you can actually see an r154 belhousing(on the left) next to the w58 belhousing(on tranny on right) in the pic below you can see how the slave cyl bolted to the r154 bell is facing down ill put up better pics
this pic the r154 bell is on the right you can see the bell is oriented in the same way as the w58 bell front down if you would like to tell the difference between a w58 and r154 its easy the slave cylinder faces opposite eachother the r154 the slave faces twards the motor(it pushes the ram twards the motor) and w58 twards the back the clutch fork sticks out of the belhousing like inthese pics and the ram rod (lol) pushes it twards the back of the car

trying to fit r154 tranny crossmember onto w58 rubber tranny mount obvioulsy wont fit

yell0w

I dropped the whole tranny kit and everything off at the shop already. My buddie, the technician was just wondering if the crossmember and the rubber mount from the auto would work for the manual tranny i dropped off and if he needed to order a shim for the flywheel cause toyota is saying yes he needs the shim while lexus is saying no he doesn't. So now i'm in panic mode.

skipjagger

iTrader: (1)

i know we answered this in pm but this is for everone!



my w58 already had a rubber tranny mount on it so i cant tell you from experience but it looks like the general consensice is that no the rubber mount from the auto wont fit but know from personal experience that the auto crossmember fits on a w58 rubber trans mount (im 99 percent sure its exactly the same alum cross for both auto and w58)

im assuming he is refering to the shim behind the flex plate that spaces the automatic flexplate out and is to be removed before the manual flywheel is installed

i dont think he was refering to the locking ring some choose to put on ther flywheels it is not nessisary i did not use one its a driftmotion part and just from reading the discription it seems kinda useless except so you dont put a little mark on your alum flywheel, the bolts should NEVER back out install them correctly and you wont have an issue! here is the link to the "locking ring" incase anyone is interested

http://store.driftmotion.com/static/...ockingring.php

jdmbeer

heyy was up man so am doing 5 swap to my sc. so i want to know way to jump the neutral switch and wire reverse light too.

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

the spacing on post 5 makes this unreadable. ugh

bleedspeed

superb!! between this and sc300jz's thread i will have a huge jump start on my swap happening in a few months. thanks for this and keep it up. subscribed.

yell0w

Hey skip just letting you know i'm car is done and it runs great. Just one more question. My buddie has a auto to manual r154. And his shifter is way back of course. Is there a fix to that? so that it sits nice like the w58?

skipjagger

iTrader: (1)

sorry ti took so long to get back to you been really busy lately,

yes you have to put some chassis grease in 3 spots, one on the coller thing that the inout shaft rides inside. grease the part where the throw out bearing will be sliding on the ouside parts, then the splines on the input shaft cause the clutch plate moves in and out a litle every time you press the clutch, and on the throw out beaing , the part where the clutch fork will be pushing against

skipjagger

iTrader: (1)

i cant find my info on colors for the neutral safety but if i remember correctly it should be the 2 black wires?? but dont quote me on that. but what ever color they are there is 2 wires for the switch, both in the same connector. you cut these 2 wires off the connector that plugs into the tranny and hook them together, i recommend heat shrink tubing and solder or a weather proof single pin connector.

in this post pictures 2 through 5 have the connections for the reverse light the big connector that plugs into the tranny grab that and pull back the wire loom you will see a red and yellow wire cut those 2 off the connector those are your power and ground for the reverse light switch, you cant hook them up backwards to the reverse light switch in the tranny just get a weather prof connector and put it on like the pics show. the 2 black wires in this pic are off the transmission reverse light switch il see if i can find out what colors the wires for the neutral safety are. you can just eliminate it like i did so you can start the car without depressing the clutch or you can hook the yellow and red wires up to the clutch pedal switch that most likely came on your pedal assembly if it was used

skipjagger

iTrader: (1)

im still doin my swap for that had to stop and move my car out of the garage and do a payin job im assuming you mean the shifter is way forward?? like almost into the radio forward or you cant see where the shifter goes cause there is floor in the way lol between the tranny tunnel and hole the bottom of the shifter goes into the tranny i mean?

LexyAzHell

Hey skip. I came across this swap but the pics won't load. I was wondering if you could do anything to make these load. Thx.