*Spoiler brake light not working - Help!*
01-06-11, 10:54 PM
#16
Definitely... Looked up the whole replacement assembly before doing this of coarse and just for that LED housing its $250 bucks!!! The way I did it is probably better than OEM due to the fact that even if that housing was underwater the LED strip is 100% water proof. So any condensation? not a problem. I have none but still.
09-02-14, 05:00 PM
#17
Mine was burnt out when i bought it so like a week after I owned it i decided to take it apart and see whats up. I knew it wasn't the wiring because I checked the plug and it was receiving power. So I opened it (breaking the glue holding the lens on and found that a resistor or diode exploded and was no longer getting power to the bulbs. The bulbs were all corroded as well so I didnt bother figuring out what the diode or resistor was. So I went on ebay finding a 16" Strip of LEDs. Cut off the original LEDs making a flat surface to attach/stick to. Stuck it on, rewired through the seal and it looks brand new. The colors arn't washed out on the lens at all either. Perfectly red, not pink due to the LEDs being too bright. I was so happy to get it fixed. Now its not just a red bar on the spoiler anymore. It lights up!! 
Heres a couple pics.
Heres a couple pics.
09-02-14, 05:51 PM
#18
Last time Samurai visited this website was April 2013 he made this post in January 2011 so it may take a while before you get your reply. I suggest you take a breath read both pages of this post and you will find your answer. Hint see post #11 "So I went on E bay finding a 16" Strip of LED's..."
04-28-18, 04:32 PM
#20
Driver School Candidate
Mine didn't worked. No power to pin 1 of connector BD1 and no ground connection to pin 2 of connector.Bd1. (the Bd1 connector is about 1 foot from the high mount stop light.) But I did have power on ORANGE connector BC1 pin 11 about 10 feet closer to the battery from the light. ( all power tests require depressing brake pedal to activate the STOP LIGHT SWITCH). (See service manual)
well what an interesting problem. Should work if you are getting power at the BC1 connector ( located LH under rear seat, which I removed for access purposes. From BC1 it's basically a straight shot to Bd1 connector (located RH in trunk). and as I said , NO ground. on pin2 of Bd1 connector. Turns out a gentle pull of the Bd1 connector resulted in NO Resistance and further gentle pulling resulted in pulling the 2-wire set-up clean out of the plastic sheath. This wiring measured about 2 feet and appeared never to have been spliced in. It appears this was a factory mistake or an intentional factory action.. WOW if my conclusion is correct. I need to confirm this was a mistake before splicing it in somewhere.
well what an interesting problem. Should work if you are getting power at the BC1 connector ( located LH under rear seat, which I removed for access purposes. From BC1 it's basically a straight shot to Bd1 connector (located RH in trunk). and as I said , NO ground. on pin2 of Bd1 connector. Turns out a gentle pull of the Bd1 connector resulted in NO Resistance and further gentle pulling resulted in pulling the 2-wire set-up clean out of the plastic sheath. This wiring measured about 2 feet and appeared never to have been spliced in. It appears this was a factory mistake or an intentional factory action.. WOW if my conclusion is correct. I need to confirm this was a mistake before splicing it in somewhere.
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