Artsy/Spooky Pic's of SC's
10-02-14, 03:15 PM
#33
The holes dont line up....but if you get lucky the pre 97 spoiler may cover up the holes.....I had to mount mine up a little bit higher to hide the holes....be prepared to drill holes in the trunk for the pre 97 spoiler..I ended only being able to use 3 of the 5 mounting points but I did use 3M as well to seal it up so water cant get underneath of it
10-02-14, 08:37 PM
#35
The holes dont line up....but if you get lucky the pre 97 spoiler may cover up the holes.....I had to mount mine up a little bit higher to hide the holes....be prepared to drill holes in the trunk for the pre 97 spoiler..I ended only being able to use 3 of the 5 mounting points but I did use 3M as well to seal it up so water cant get underneath of it
10-03-14, 11:24 PM
#37
Lexus Champion
10-05-14, 04:56 PM
#39
scENFORCER, that's a great location! I love the second one especially.
I am not familiar with Nikon's sensors but generally I'd suggest this:
Until very recently the sweet spot for ISO settings for many DSLRs still emulated most 35mm professional film stocks (for BEST performance-- they can take pictures with considerably higher ISOs than film). The Canon 5D Mark III and Nikon's D700 changed that.
You'll have to forgive my comparisons to celluloid film methodology. That's how I trained and it's a point of starting reference for the thought process to manual exposures.
Switch to full manual, try ISO 1600-2000 to start (that's where most film left off although there were black and white 3200 and grainy as all hell 6400 speed films), and try an aperture of f/4.0, f/2.8 or f/2.0 or lower if your lens is that fast. Remember the wider the aperture the less depth of field you will have. Try lower shutter speeds as well. If you have a tripod or can safely set the camera on the ground try setting a shutter timer to use a setting below (or well below) 1/60th of a second. Sometimes you can go handheld at 1/45th but any lower than that and you need to set a timer. Just check your meter for the median exposure mark as you play with these settings.
The newest cameras have some very impressive maximum ISOs up to 12,500. They might be up to 15,000 ISO by now. Keep in mind, as your ISO goes even higher you'll have even more noise (like film grains being exposed for too long-- in color film photography this used to cause what was known as "reciprocity failure" where one or more color layers would burn out from extremely long exposures. It made for some cool experiments but with digital it's a thing of the past).
I usually stay around ISO 1600-2000 maximum for the most stable image with little to no noise. If you can do low shutter speeds on a timer you may be able to back it down considerably. Personally I love embracing the light in the location I'm in at night so my preference is to shoot near or full wide open aperture on the lens but this isn't always going to give you the affect you want.
That, and there is a big, big difference at night between a lens that will only give you f/4.5 maximum at night and a 50mm that will give you f/1.4 maximum.
Just play with your camera and remember that capturing light in your camera settings is additive and subtractive: aperture/f-stop (lens opening), shutter speed and ISO (sensor speed or camera film speed) are your three ways of doing this. And today the in-camera light sensors are pretty accurate at giving you a median exposure indication.
There is also the technique of making HDR images (High Dynamic Range) which is similar to bracketing but involves combining three or more varied exposures in Photoshop to create brilliantly colored images.
Hope this helps. Just have fun with it!
I am not familiar with Nikon's sensors but generally I'd suggest this:
Until very recently the sweet spot for ISO settings for many DSLRs still emulated most 35mm professional film stocks (for BEST performance-- they can take pictures with considerably higher ISOs than film). The Canon 5D Mark III and Nikon's D700 changed that.
You'll have to forgive my comparisons to celluloid film methodology. That's how I trained and it's a point of starting reference for the thought process to manual exposures.
Switch to full manual, try ISO 1600-2000 to start (that's where most film left off although there were black and white 3200 and grainy as all hell 6400 speed films), and try an aperture of f/4.0, f/2.8 or f/2.0 or lower if your lens is that fast. Remember the wider the aperture the less depth of field you will have. Try lower shutter speeds as well. If you have a tripod or can safely set the camera on the ground try setting a shutter timer to use a setting below (or well below) 1/60th of a second. Sometimes you can go handheld at 1/45th but any lower than that and you need to set a timer. Just check your meter for the median exposure mark as you play with these settings.
The newest cameras have some very impressive maximum ISOs up to 12,500. They might be up to 15,000 ISO by now. Keep in mind, as your ISO goes even higher you'll have even more noise (like film grains being exposed for too long-- in color film photography this used to cause what was known as "reciprocity failure" where one or more color layers would burn out from extremely long exposures. It made for some cool experiments but with digital it's a thing of the past).
I usually stay around ISO 1600-2000 maximum for the most stable image with little to no noise. If you can do low shutter speeds on a timer you may be able to back it down considerably. Personally I love embracing the light in the location I'm in at night so my preference is to shoot near or full wide open aperture on the lens but this isn't always going to give you the affect you want.
That, and there is a big, big difference at night between a lens that will only give you f/4.5 maximum at night and a 50mm that will give you f/1.4 maximum.
Just play with your camera and remember that capturing light in your camera settings is additive and subtractive: aperture/f-stop (lens opening), shutter speed and ISO (sensor speed or camera film speed) are your three ways of doing this. And today the in-camera light sensors are pretty accurate at giving you a median exposure indication.
There is also the technique of making HDR images (High Dynamic Range) which is similar to bracketing but involves combining three or more varied exposures in Photoshop to create brilliantly colored images.
Hope this helps. Just have fun with it!
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