stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

First off, I take no responsibility if you do this and your car speeds out of control like the Toyota that it is. With that said...

If you did a 5-speed swap and you lost your cruise function, but the cruise light still comes on when you activate it, this mod should work to restore it.

The cruise control ECU is the one mounted up beside the clutch pedal. It is a black box and says speed control on the side of it. It has a single connector plugged into the bottom of it. Disconnect that connector and remove pin 2 from it.

The wire should be black with a white stripe. You can pop the pin retaining mechanism up on the connector and use a small pick or screwdriver to free the pin, or you can do it dirty and just cut the wire and tape the ends off.

Your cruise should now work again.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Oh, and BTW, if you did not wire in a clutch switch, PRESSING THE CLUTCH WILL NOT CANCEL THE CRUISE!

If you push the clutch in, the RPMS will hang wherever the cruise had it last to maintain speed. That means you need to tap the brake to cancel, or push the cruise switch to OFF to cancel.

This may only be an issue with my car since I removed so much of the auto harness stuff, but just be aware.

I think I am going to find a cruise clutch switch and wire it in, since this little issue is a bit annoying.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

just a heads up its not the clutch start switch at the bottom of the pedal that cancels cruise.
I jumpered the clutch start switch so I could start my car without having to push the clutch in (concerned about crankwalk), and I discovered my cruise control still works 100%, and still cancels when you push in the clutch ever so slightly which makes sense cause the switch i jumpered is basically only activated when the clutch is all the way to the floor. To cancel cruise you only have to push the pedal very slightly.

so basically there must be another switch or another way it knows you are just barely on the clutch and it will cancel it. good luck.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

That's correct. There is a second switch on the clutch pedal to cancel cruise. It does not use the NSS. The cruise cancel switch is the one I am going to order since I already bypassed the NSS.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Ok, I borrowed this diagram from Sewell. I do plan on buying my clutch switch from them, so I hope they are cool with that Anywho, circled in green is the cruise kill switch, which you can see would trip as soon as you touch the clutch.



The start switch is at the bottom of the clutch stroke(circled in red). The full part number for the cruise switch is 88280-14030. I am not positive how to wire it yet. Once I get it and wire it, I will follow up in this thread.

BartleDoo

iTrader: (1)

I suppose I could add in how to keep CC on manual swapped 400's since this isn't a 300 specific thread. Just wire in a toggle switch instead of directly bypassing the neutral safety switch. Then, you can toggle it off after the car is started to use CC. The manual car runs better with the NSS enabled so it is only useful to disable it while cruising. If it is disabled while driving regularly, the throttle on/off is more jerky and the ecu retards timing at the non-power ect shift points (4xxx rpm?) unless you connect the ect dealy and set it back to power mode.

Gspec

Thanks for the info...I was considering removing all the cruise components since it no longer worked after my swap.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Interesting to know. How can you tell that it is retarding timing, and why would the ECU retard timing for specific shift points if it thinks the car is in neutral?

BartleDoo

iTrader: (1)

When you disengage the NSS, the ecu thinks it's in drive. So, if you don't enable the NSS, and then go wot with the ect switch unplugged (which will trigger the default ect setting), then the ecu will pull timing at the default shift point because it thinks it's in drive. That's why I said disengage it only for cruising. You can feel the timing pull. It is VERY pronounced. It feels like you let off the throttle completely and then stomped it again as you pass through the shift point at wot. With the NSS is enabled, it runs smoothly.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

My ECT switch is long gone. When should I feel the power loss if I am WOT? My car pulls hard up to about 6500.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I was going to install a push button on the Nss so I have to hold it to bypass for starting. I'm not swapped and on standalone so it works even when bypassed full time. Cruise works like stock. Just install the cruise switch and get a regular automotive 12vdc momentary-on push switch for the Nss. I wouldn't waste money on the stock nss.

lev00221

iTrader: (28)

Thank you! Very helpful thread!

MIGS

iTrader: (15)

i wish there was a write up on how to retain CC when you swap over to an aftermarket steering wheel and lose the CC lever :/

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

I dont follow ya man. The bad?

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Oh dang, I think I read your reply wrong. You are saying you want to leave the NSS in the neutral position pretty much always unless you are using cc. If you trick the car to think it's in neutral it won't retard timing right? Is that what you were saying? For some reason I interpreted it backwards from that the first time I read it.