weeters

iTrader: (1)

was there any final word on this working a ge tranny?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I read a thread which talked about different resistors. I think alot of guys are saying the ones that work on obd1 I dont think its the same value that works on obd2 or they realize its even different.

it comes with a 90mm mustang flange, so the only bolt on ones are the 90mm mustang ones which all use the mustang tps (wont work with this mod so well), but there is a RMR 90mm throttle body with a toyots tps adapter but its like $400+. what I ended up doing is getting a RMR q45 throttle body flange for a "D plenum" and having my aluminum guy weld it on, then you can bolt on a q45 throttle body which is like 82.5m its bigger than 3" piping. I then used the stock tps with the q45 toyota tps adapter. IACV I got the weld on flange online and am running a sc400 unit. a 2jz or 7m unit would work also, I have heard the 1jz does not fit right but can't confirm that or not.

I also had the intake made shorter when I changed flanges so could run the q45 throttle body upside down and have the throttle cable come over the lower runner instead of the shock tower side. the throttle linkage will want to hit the power steering union bolt for the remote reservoir thing, which is why I had to make the intake shorter to clear and used a lower profile bolt on the union. if you try and turn the throttle body upside down you will see what I mean.



you can see in this picture where the silver looking linkage would swing down close to the silver hex bolt on the power steering union.
The linkage clears the bolt by like 1/4"-1/2"

it shifts through all the gears fine, but the torque converter lockup function doesn't work. really for na-t you should look to swap to the gte auto trans or go manual transmission those are the only options for reliably holding na-t power. the stock trans is not worth the effort involved in making that function work properly.

killersqrl

Did they change the flange recently or is it just mislabeled? The xspower ffim I was looking at states it is made for q45. I think that's the best value for what I want, is the stock q45 worth messing with or better to get an aftermarket tb?

187

Looks like i need to find a 25 ohm resistor since radio shack isn't open anymore

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

no its a chinese knock off part and from day 1 the people that import and sell them actually have no idea what tb fits on there, I have had like 20 people ask me how to fit a q45 on there. they just write that cause they want you to buy it and everyone "knows" about the q45 tb vs the mustang one. majority of guys who use the mustang pattern are on standalone on supra's cause they want the max 90mm or you can even get like 110mm aftermarket ones basically its like the ford racing pattern. I bought it originally thinking it was a q45 pattern and well, it isn't even close.

which one you use is personal preference. lots of info out there just have to do some research.
I wouldn't go for the ebay special 90mm one, it might fit and is cheap but everyone says it leaks boost so its really just a waste of time/money.
the RMR is the pricey nice version of those that doesn't leak, but the tb costs more than the whole project.

the q45 is like old trusty that normally doesn't leak, but if it does it can be resealed with new nissan parts, is widely available, and was a oem part meaning it just plain works well.
the downside is its a bit bulky and ugly at times, but it also has a cold start feature that if you have no IACV, you can leave that on there and with some tweaking it helps massively with cold starts.
most with an IACV rip it off though, but my first setup with no IACV I left it on and it helped.

thats crazy how that place closed down so fast, although I don't feel bad they overcharged for literally everything they could. maybe you are lucky to be in one of those states with a fry's electronics or just have to order online and wait.

187

I made another adjustment to the idle air screw today. It stayed around 850 rpm but there was a lag in the throttle because of the tps. I think I need to move the tps closer to the middle an redo the procedure.

Its a very clear audible lag in the response and you can hear and feel it when driving, and it was about an 1/8 of a turn.

I'm going to try and pick up that resistor tomorrow if possible. I found a radio shack about 20 min from me that hasn't closed yet.

fried_rice

iTrader: (20)

I tried a 7M IACV, it did not work at idle and acted as if the IACV was completely open 2200-2500 RPM, The 7M was completely different internally, but had the 2JZ-GTE flange orientation. I'm not sure if the IACV was defective, as it was from a motor sitting around. We borrowed a JDM 2JZ-GTE IACV off our SC, for the NA-T GTE FFIM setup. It worked perfectly with the driftmotion IACV flange, GTE conversion in the Supra.

The GE IACV is completely different flange and design on the OBDI 2JZ-GE and will not fit the driftmotion flange, it also doesn't have a breather. The newer GE IACV has a breather, but the same GE bolt pattern, I couldn't test either of the GE IACV's with the driftmotion IACV weld on flange.

After using the 2JZ-GTE IACV, we purchased a 1JZ IACV and slightly drilled the bolt holes out to fit the 2JZ-GTE Flange. It did not idle correctly either, but not horrible like the 7M. We ended up purchasing another 2JZ-GTE IACV for our JDM 2JZ-GTE swapped SC and it is back on the road.

I do not have any info on the SC400 IACV.

The 1JZ/2JZ IACV's have different bore designs on the internal filter/grommet that go on the flange which possibly cause them to be slightly off.

Without the IACV it didn't just take 30-45 seconds like some have stated. It took a full 3-5 minutes of holding the throttle to reach operating temperature to idle correctly.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you probably got a bad 7m one. I have used them before with stock like idle for many moons. by this age most of them have seen better days and are stuck, thats why I recommended looking into a cheap and newer sc400 option that I am currently using.
2jzgte will always work thats what it was designed for, good to know the 1jz is close with some diy work.
if you crack open the throttle more without the iacv you wont have to hold it as long when starting.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Ali,

I currently have my toyota map sensor on the passenger side strut tower with a vacuum line from the intake manifold port near the fire wall.

Do you think that having such a long vacuum line could skew the pressure readings? Would it be more ideal to have it connected as close as possible which would require re-wiring the wires over there (which is why I avoided it).

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

just minimize the thickness of the line and make sure its not tee'd into too many things and it should be fine. it doesn't affect the actual reading just the rate of change so quick vacuum changes the diameter and length of the line can have a very small effect, but it seems its not enough to cause drive-ability issues most of the time.

I used to think it had to be a short line also, but then I used a map ecu which has like a 6 foot vacuum line to the map sensor which is by the ecu inside the car, and It runs just like the stock setup. I personally like to tie the stock 2jz map sensor in with the fuel pressure regulator with a short line but its not necessary, as I said I also run the map ecu with a long vac line all the way inside the car and both run the same more or less.

187

Okay so some more interesting information.

I tried a 22 ohm resistor for the wastegate vsv but it didn't work so I actually have to go online to find a 25 ohm because radio shack doesn't sell 25ohm.

Also a bit of a new development I got a new code I have never gotten that actually makes sense. P0133 for slow 02 sensor response. All it says in the book for the dtcs is to replace the sensor. Not quite sure what to make of this.

aznexus

Do any of you guys have any dyno numbers with this TT ecu mod?

myLEXsc400

330hp and 332tq at 10psi

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

Hey not bad considering a stock supra puts out 320hp on 11.5 psi.. But now, on stock injectors and the usual intercooler/exhaust, bump it up to 14-15 psi (14.7 boost cut) and get over 400hp no problem, theoretically..

Side note, I'm on the prowl for a GTE ECU, did they double in price recently? I cant seem to find one online for less than $500..

fried_rice

iTrader: (20)

There are quite a few ECU's on ebay under $200. The last ECU a friend purchased from ebay for $125. I see them quite often on the Supra,SC, and Lexus Facebook pages and craigslist for $100