Sonnieism

Do you think the richness could cause it to missfire? Causing a code 14?

Sonnieism

t yes I am using a 2jz map sensor now.

Sonnieism

I am going back to stock ecu, no turbo and injectors to see if this code 14 goes away

Sonnieism

I seen that sj408 went to coil pack and code 14 went away. So I'm going to try to explain as much as possible because I was in class responding earlier. So my car is a 1992 sc300 with a W58 Trans. Just did a 2jzgte head gasket on a 2jzge with arp headstuds. After the headgasket, put on a xspower kit. For fuel I put A 255 LPh pump and 525 cc injectors. I am using my stock distributor and coil for this mod With turbo supra plugs. The ecu I am using is an auto aristo ecu with a known working map sensor. For an igniter I am using a ds62 igniter. I have had the car running (idling) for about a month now. The problem I am having is that I am getting a code 14 For ignition. I've have swapped ecus, checked grounds, swapped plugs, igniters, and wired igf and igt signal wires directly from the ecu. Still the same. On my wide band the car starts at around 7.5 af and then it starts learning to 12.5 then goes to 13.0 then dies. Not sure what is going on... no other codes at all except code 14, which is causing my car to be undriveable. I have been reading all these post and they have been very informative and I've been applying everything I've learned from them but still no luck. Just want to be boosting

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I am sure we can help you get it running you probably do not need to go to the stock ecu.
air fuel of 7.5 is horribly way too much extremely rich. I would not expect this from 525cc injectors, sounds like you have some sort of overfueling condition and that causes misfires and code 14. you need to look at the fuel side of things if the map sensor is working correctly.

have you replaced the cap and rotor on the distributor recently (or changed to the 4runner cap which I don't like)? you might want to start with that, I wouldn't turbo a ge without at least doing that cause if those parts are old you are loosing a good amount of spark energy right there. combined with large plug gaps and you wont get reliable ignition. just 1 thought to check.

can you post a picture of your vacuum routing just so I can double check? map sensor and fuel pressure regulator and any other things you are unsure about. I like to tee the map sensor into the fuel pressure regulator line. if you tie in there back by the egr, there is alot of stuff connected there that may mess with it slightly although it should be ok but I prefer the tapping into the FPR route, then those are the only 2 things that are on that 1 nipple off the intake manifold.

when mine starts up with the 440cc on jdm ecu, I am at around 11-12 afr's, and when it starts learning it goes to 14-15 afr range. still sounds like you are way too rich. what kind of wideband do you have the aem ones only go to 10 and stop even though it may be richer so makes me think you have a innovative lc1 or something if you can read that it is 7, and 7 is way too rich I am surprised it even starts. I would guess you have to play with the pedal to get it started.

you said supra turbo plugs, what gap did you drop them in at? with the stock coil you will want to gap them down to like .021-.024 which is really low but will get rid of misfires. going to coilpacks should help out alot with the spark, but will not fix an over fueling situation. trying a gap of .032 with the stock setup is not a good idea generally speaking it will break up in boost or misfire in vacuum at times, I only run those larger gaps on coilpacks. I have even seen some run .043 on stock gte coils up to 18-20 psi without breaking up.

make sure your fuel return line is good if you messed with that during the pump install that can create higher pressure if its kinked or pinched at all. make sure the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator is in place like factory, otherwise you will get extra fuel pressure in vacuum and not enough fuel pressure under boost.

I am sending you a PM next time you are working on it hit me up.

kevcoupe

Thought I'd post up my set up here and let you know of my progress so far

93 Supra SZ

2JZGE (TT head gasket & ARP head studs)
W58
GTE inlet manifold (NA lower runners and TT top section & TB)
GE fuel rail
550cc RX7 purpletop injectors
2JZGTE 6MT ECU
pre vvti GTE coils
TT igniter
BKR7's
0.7 bar boost





I had a bought a DS62 igniter which I was having problems with. The engine would turn over but wouldn't fire. Turns out I was getting a very very weak spark. I presume this was something to do with using old style individual coils as opposed to the vvti ones, or maybe even a faulty igniter?

Since installing the Supra TT igniter the car runs great, but I am experiencing similar problems to some other members in terms of the car running mega rich on the 550's (idles at around 11-11.5 on my AEM) and the boost brakes up at WOT. No EML so far though!

I have an Emanage ultimate which I'm going to wire in and then have the car mapped and will keep you all posted.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

the GTE coils are just as strong as the vvti coils. while each one is smaller, there is twice as many. Its on the first page if you are using 6 TT coils, then you need to use a 6 channel tt ignitor. you cannot use a 3 channel ds62 ignitor to run 6 GTE coils. the 3 channel ignitor is only for 3 waste spark coils (like vvti coils).
installing the gte ignitor should have set it straight, the rest sounds like fuel and I would remove that intake manifold.

everything looks good except for that gte intake manifold. did you weld them together or try and bolt them. If you did any kind of bolting your car will never run right, they do not match up well enough for na-t. trust me I have had several people tell me "no it really works with porting and 2 gaskets and rtv" and after they do it they blow the motor. I mean seriously 2 gaskets and rtv on something you plan on pushing 20 psi through??? the smallest bit of air entering is going to lean out those middle cylinders. do yourself a huge favor and either get it welded, or rip it off and make your own like I did out of D plenum.

this is what mine looks like. its just RMR D plenum, RMR q45 throttle body flange, q45 throttle body, IACV flange, and three 1/4" NPT aluminum weld on bungs.
not sure how bad shipping is to you though from the states.





I have even seen some new setups where people take the 2jzgte greddy knock off intake manifold and then modify the middle plate that bolts the 2 together. I haven't done it but I have seen one on a na-t and it looked nice and you can use a q45 throttle body on those with a tps adapter.
looks like this and you would have to modify the plate where you can see the holes machined out.


sounds like you got most of your problems sorted except for the fuel controller to pull some fuel and of course the gte intake manifold you should remove it I am not trying to be mean or anything I just rather see a fellow na-t member not blow their engine. I wish it worked but seriously it does not don't let people convince you it does. I would use a stock intake manifold over the ge/gte intake manifold setup .

kevcoupe

Thanks for the feedback Ali, it's much appreciated!

Thanks for explaining the ds62 / GTE coils issue, hopefully others learn from my mistake. Also, the FFIM has been welded together so I don't have any concerns there. Wouldn't mind something similar to your set up in the future though, I guess I'll cross that bridge when I come to it!

I'll keep you posted with results of Emanage fitting / mapping once the snow goes away!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

That is good news on the gte ffim being welded, at least that does not mess with the tune too much. bolting them as said does not work at all. you should be fine with the gte ignitor, but if you ever go to vvti coils you will need to use the ds62 ignitor. hopefully you ran 3 more wires from the ecu to the TT ignitor as the TT ignitor has 6 channels.

let us know how the emanage goes that should take care of the fueling, and I think you can also set up boost cut on those so it should work out nicely.

Osbornecox

What are you guys with ffim doing about blocking off the egr port on the head? It looks like it will be hard to make a block off plate where the egr ports shares a mounting hole with the intake manifold. Would a freeze plug work? Anybody have any advice or pics? Thanks

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

The 550's on the stock JDM GTE ecu were super rich, like pegging my AEM UEGO rich. My new innovate goes below 10:1 A/F and it was deep in the 9's. WOT was choppy and jerky like the car was being flooded. Bought a simple SAFC and pulled 25% and pulled fuel at WOT and it completely fixed the issue.

The only slight problem which isn't really a huge issue is at operating temps starting the car it will run lean for about a minute or so (16.0-17:1 A/F) if I let it sit and idle. This also can cause the car to idle slightly lower due to the lean condition but the ecu relearns and adjusts once I get going. Not sure how to remedy this, the IAT sensor is in the upper intake pipe near the filter.

I recently sold my daily driver and have been driving the lexus everyday for the past couple weeks. The car starts in 0 deg weather like a champ not a hint of trouble, super reliable!

Freeze plug! The stock head I purchased is from Oumar, a moderator here and a freeze plug was installed on the EGR to cap it. Now what size freeze plug he used I couldn't help you there but did the trick.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

the hot start lean idle is completely normal and not anything to worry about. its due to the cylinder temps being higher as the first 15 minutes after you shutoff your car the engine temp will actually get hotter (due to no coolant circulating) before it starts to get cooler from sitting there, and when the engine is that hot it runs leaner.

96-97 "GE" motors have a vsv on the fuel pressure regulator to correct this minor issue, but I would advise bypassing it when na-t because it was not designed for boost.
what happens is on hot start that vsv disconnects the FPR from the intake reading, so it just reads outside air. this bumps up the fuel pressure for a few minutes until the vsv turns off, assuming you do not have a turbocharger. if you do have a turbo and you boost during this time, you can actually run into the problem of having not enough fuel cause its not looking at the intake and reading outside air, whereas your turbo is pumping like 14 psi more than the outside air is, so that would be a worse problem than being 1 point leaner for a few minutes which is only really noticed in closed loop.
to bypass just connect the 2 hoses to the vsv together.

The lean hot start numbers on the wideband is also sort of a neat feature cause its reminding you that the motor is a little hot, and to give it a minute before you really get on it so the cylinder temps stabilize.

I use a simple block off plate on the EGR. there is the factory gasket, then the factory lower runner which has the spot for EGR, then I put some high temp rtv on the plate and bolt it onto the runner. works just fine but if you forget the RTV it will likely leak.
the freeze plug does sound like a good idea you can do that on the runner itself to avoid having to mess with the head but the lower runner might have to come off. I would probably tap it and use a NPT fitting.

187

Soon

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

very nice. make sure you have the right "chip"

187

Yup already confirmed the "A" chip. Just need to find a place to mount the temp probe and I'll be ready to install.