joe diego

iTrader: (3)

Sonnieism, what year is your SC? Auto or man.?

6SOARER

iTrader: (20)

Hey Ali, how you been? Good to see your still around, your car is looking great with that FFIM.

I been running this Mod for awhile now until end of last year, I bumped the boost up to 14 lbs, was running low on oil and it messed up my motor. Long story short I picked up a replacement engine for a good price but it was from a 95'. I have a 92 SC300 and from my understanding, 92-95 are OBD1 and should be the same, correct? I had to swap a few sensors over to the replacement motor to make my TT harness work.

I got everything hooked up, plugged in then I went to start the car, it would crank but wont start. I am not getting either any spark or fuel. What strange is, everything worked before I pulled the motor out. What I noticed was the negative cable from the battery going to the engine block was not connected and the ECU plugs were not sitting fully. My engine light kicked ON when I turned the key OFF and out, this threw me off, I had never seen It do this before.

After I got the negative cable and ECU plugs connected, I tried starting it again. Same results, It cranks but does not start. I hear the Fuel relay clicking under the hood but I can not smell any fuel. the engine light functions normally now and I did not get any codes.

Where is the Crank sensor located and is there a plug to it? Im thinking my crank sensor is not working that's why im not getting no spark? what should I check next

Sonnieism

It's a 92 oem 5 speed!

6SOARER

iTrader: (20)

Nevermind my post above, I got it started


What I did was switch over my old 92' distributor, I am not positive if this did it but it starts right up now.

I was searching on ALLDATA, that the 92 sc300 crank signal was inside the dizzy. The 95 models, ALLDATA did not have any location of the crank. Just curious how do those model years get there crank signal?

joe diego

iTrader: (3)

I'm glad you resolve the issue. At the end you help us all out.

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

95 still gets signal from distributor

3sgte map sensor works. Jacked one from an mr2 turbo at the wrecking yard two weeks ago and my daily aristo ecu car (1j though) runs great with it.

Fwiw, I don't think maf on a single is a problem at all. I ran a 60mm on my Vvti 1j through the same maf (tt supra, ls400 obd2, stock Vvti 1j maf, all the same) on a completely stock setup (injector/ecu) with the only differences being the turbo and it ran great. 440s and safc, ran great. Id1000s, emanage, ran great on pump and e85. All through the maf. I can't see a reason why the tt ecu has an issue. It almost makes me wanna wire up this obd2 **** I have here to see if it gives me issues, just don't have 550s laying around. Also don't see why this would create a problem.

Maybe the guys lower runners are sucking in air under boost near the injectors Venturi style? Are you sure one of the timing negative signals isn't wired into where the positive signal is? Seen a 1j pfc came factory with the crank circuit reversed in the circuitry and had all sorts of normal driving/weird boost misfires until the ecu was pinned backwards to match apexi's mistake.

I have an na/t car here that does some weird stuff with idle sometimes and picks up knock under boost and transitioning into boost. I'm bypassing the stupid ge iacv this week since I think they suck, and confirming circuitry wiring. Thinking idle will be solid after the iacv is gone, but pretty sure the noise is because cold max oil pressure is 30psi. (Former bhg car)

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

14 is the IGF signal, one of the wires you put in the new ignitor. something is not wired right or bad connection. without the IGF working right the car will shut off.

47 is sub tps sensor, that is for traction control. since you have a 92 5 speed, they did not come with traction control so you will throw this code until you jumper the tps 5v to the sub tps signal pin, then ecu will be happy and it goes away.

you will run rich with those injectors and could be washing out the spark in boost.
I would find a controller to pull some fuel and fix the IGF issue.
normally the car will not run with an IGF problem so at least its not that bad.

I don;t think the vvti works the same way as the older ones, I don't hear many people having to go speed density on vvti ecu's but with the non-vvti ecu's it seems everyone does. people can complain that the vpc/safc is dinosaur old all they want, but its basically made for that ecu to work on a single turbo with larger injectors, hence why they have different chips. if no remapping was needed, there would not be so many different options you know. well at least thats how I feel.

I always felt there was a possibility with a leak on the injectors, which is why I pused the whole IS300 injectors or swapping to obd1 runner, but one of the guys already swapped to obf1 runners and injectors and has the same issue of it falling on its face after coming off of load and/ or stalling, and hunting for AFR's which is still odd to me. I have had no problems with the ge idle valve or the 7m idle valve and currently using a sc400 idle valve really they all seem to run basically the same.

It would be sweet if you wired it up and solved the problem, but not sure how you can do that on a vvti motor. I just don't have access to an obd2 car or the US ecu and 550's to do it either. these guys are in a pretty serious bind and I do think its related to the map vs maf, so until someone for sure tests it and says that doesn't work lets not shoot it down and just add other suggestions. according to me it should have been working already but the only thing left is that non vvti maf that seems to hate single turbo's.

also even though the 1jz vvti uses a maf, don't you think the airflow maps will be more closer to a large single turbo, since it comes factory with a single turbo (although a smaller one). I think the airflow of 1 of the twins at idle is much different than that of 1 small single turbo (larger than 1 of the doubles) or 1 large single turbo (probably double that 1 little twin turbo). so I would arguably say the 1jz vvti ecu would be the closest already maf wise to cooperating with a larger single turbo.

those little twin turbo's push so much air down low, its just not being adjusted for by the ecu properly cause when it trims back fuel at idle (due to decreased air flow), its going to have to retrim up above idle, and when it comes back to idle, it wont have that same fuel trim and will probably stay rich on decel. I dunno, like a million things happen in the ecu when its not set up right. I do think a vpc would take care of the problem and they have simple ***** you can turn to adjust things.

Sonnieism

Okay so I've tried 2 different ecus, 2 different igniters, wired the igf and igt signal straight to the ecu pinout to the igniter, and grounded everything out. Im not longer getting a code 47 because I installed a 02sensor. not sure why but it went away. I added grounds everywhere, I triple checked wiring. Not sure what's going on 😕. Getting desperate haha. I added the 5 pins in the ecu, moved the map signal wire, added ground for ignitior, etc should I record a video? Thanks for your help

Sonnieism

This is the ignter wiring i followed. heard a ''click" when i connected the pigtail to the igniter. Same with the ecu. All of the 5 igt pins i added are connected to the igt signal wire. Tried new plugs also. I get it to start then it dies at idle after a couple of seconds. Tried driving it qnd would have to ride clutch to keep it from dying.

Sonnieism

Coil 1 is connected to c1. I followed a lot of hipsis' videos and post also!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

if you connected all of the IGT's together to the stock IGT wire, then I am guessing you are trying to do the mod with the stock distributor and coil setup?? really could use more info.

I will assume you connected them to the right IGT wire and not the IGF wire. is the code 14 still there?? it could be that its running so rich or bad that its getting misfires and then you can also get that code cause no IGF is returned when there is a misfire.

almost sounds like you just have too much fuel. do you have a wideband and what is it reading at idle and when you get into positive pressure?
if its 10.0:1 very rich that could be the problem there, there is a reason why I recommend the 440's to start out with so you know if you did it right.
525-550 should really use a fuel controller you could be washing out the spark but usually it takes 660's to do that all the time.

I have had similar symptoms with a bad map sensor before. maybe see if you can see what the voltage is when the engine is off key on, and then when idling etc..
if the map is bad it will hardly stay running and you have to put the foot on the gas to keep it alive after a start, so check out the map sensor, do you have a spare, where did you get it, etc...
it could also be an intake leak, really hard to diagnose. a video may help I can usually tell if its something I have run into before.
leaning towards a wiring issue here possibly on the map sensor, or where are you plugging into the intake, could be as simple as that.

Sonnieism

I had a omnipotent map but got a 2jz map off a running car... the ominpower worked but I remember you saying to go stock map with stock ecu. af is around 12.5-13 at idle. Map sensor is running straight to vaccum fitting were egr lines Were

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

Can't do it on a Vvti engine. But my daily is a non Vvti 1j sc400. It's on an aristo ecu and stock 1j 380s. It would need 475cc injectors to get the volumetric efficiency equation happy. 550s are 25% larger than 440s, 440s are only like 14% more than 380s. Hence the 475cc number. I also have a 2j, but I'll never ever ever ever ever use that bull**** distributor head since I think it's bull****. Ge Vvti all the way.

But like I said, i 100% feel that there's something in the wiring wrong. The difference of the turbos shouldn't matter. It's moot.

Here, test the theory by taking the wastegate off so the turbo doesn't over spool, pull the cold side piping and place a pipe maf and filter on the throttle body. If car still runs like **** then I'd look into other issues. Car should run fine that way too. I've done that before. **** is slow, but ran fine. But that would eliminate your airflow theory. I cant see the Vvti engine being different. The entire system works the same between the two other than having a cam timing map. The ecu should work in conjunction with the O2 and stuff to make the thing happy. Hell, toyotas tune for pressure/airflow sensor is usually so good an O2 isn't even needed. I've had cars idle/run perfectly with them unplugged. My daily does. I'll put one on eventually, but for something built out of leftover parts, I have zero issues.

And still, someone should confirm the ne-/g- signals aren't flip flopped by mistake which will cause weird *** timing issues

Sonnieism

Also I couldn't get into positive pressure. When it wanted to spool the car would start hesitating

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you do see on the first page where it says 2jz or 1jz map sensor only. the mr2 is the same but the omni you mentioned is an aftermarket unit and sometimes have a built in IAT, you will not want to use that as it does not correspond to the stock map sensor values.

do you have an o2 sensor in and working. if it can only lean it out to 13 with the o2 sensor in there, then its probably a sign there is a lot of extra fuel.

Vrank those are good points, and you def have more maf experience with me I have not used a TT maf but I have used the map setup extensively and those problems are not present, and both use the same cam crank setup via distributor. I didn't think it would need the map conversion originally but lots of people have issues and aren't as good as troubleshooting as you. I have heard maf position and bending behind it can affect the ecu readings and how it runs. maybe you got lucky or there is another problem.

the reason why I know there isn't a cam/crank sensor issue is these guys are still on the stock distributor base for those signals, and there is a shared ground for ne and g1/g2 (unllike the gte which has 3 seperate grounds), and these guys haven't messed with the distributor plug at all (like me and mine works). the only plausable thing I could think of besides that which would only affect those with 96-97 harnesses or blocks is that extra crank sensor, which I had them unplug and no change. I thought maybe it could pick up extra noise the gte ecu is not programmed for but that was not the case.

your 1jz non-vvti wouldn't have the same setup, but maybe we could learn something from it. I would think the fueling would be even more off. the map sensor cars its easy to get them running with little bit different injectors, but that maf ecu is doing the same things to everyone. I have read threads at supraforums where people use the vpc to get rid of those idle issues on single turbo, and it seems this problem is only present when using the USDM ecu. If someone used the US ecu on a obd1 car and it had the same problems, we could definitely narrow it down to just that specific type of ecu.

I personally have a map ecu that would go on a US ecu if I were to try it. unless its vvti its not worth keeping the stock maf in my opinion. if some can make it work thats great but seems like there is an issue here.