99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Damn.. Still going thru this obd2 mess?

I wish I have an obd2 car locally to play with im sure I will figure something out..

Ali- your idea may work, try it and report back!

187

Well Gave it a go today with some tinkering since I got home early.



here is basically why I can't try the stock cap.

I did however take the cap off and take a few photos. After the installation of everything back into place still got the same codes for 1 3 5 and the random misfire. Shut the car off (fully warm) and unplugged that greasy plug and started the car back up. At first it gave no codes which was great but I got out to listen to the exhaust and could still hear the misfires though faint. Moved the car back into its spot and checked again and got misfire codes on 3, 4 and 5 this time. The car is still idling a bit high, and you can definitely feel the difference in "snuggness" between the two caps.

I think i'm going to reset the tps tomorrow by voltage just to see if it has any effect on the misfires. Other than that I'm back to grasping at straws.

joe diego

iTrader: (3)

Which one of these two sensors will no longer be needing for tt ecu mod?

(95 SC300 cali spec 5 speed, Aristo ecu)

Would like to add my wideband and see how things are before going NA-T.

187

So tell me if this sounds funky because I'm about to just get a new tps.

Set the voltage to .65, took off the throttle cable and backed the idle air screw all the way out before hand.

Checked the continuity to see if it was 1 or 0. Found out that it's still stuck on 1 which means the car wants to rev up and down because it thinks you are giving it gas. There is no way right now of getting the tps to zero at this voltage. I was under the impression you should pretty much be able to get it out of continuity at any point in the slot by adjusting the idle air screw?

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

What are your plugs gaped at? I guess what I'm also asking is have you checked them? Also are your wires new?

aznexus

Maybe you can give this a go. I did this to my stock distributor cap in 2 hours. I used leftover material: epoxy putty, JB weld, paint, plexi glass.

187

the plugs are gaped at right around .032, Some of my wires are about 6 months old and two others are new.

I'm more concerned about the tps than anything else currently.

And Azn I still need my distributor as I'm not running coil on plugs.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I know its starting to get a little silly that its still not working.
I wish I had a 97 sc laying around I would have probably got it by now.

Its interesting that disconnecting that changed the cylinder numbers, I think we are getting closer and I suspect the distributor more now. looks like the stock cap fits on there, just try it with no filter to see if it works or get a mesh screen and cover the front of the turbo. don't drive across the country or anything you know just like a test run to see about misfires.

are you installing the GTE ecu already? the n/a ecu will need both of those o2 sensors, but the aristo uses only 1, so when you isntall the aristo ecu you can leave one, and put a wideband in the other spot. which one is the right one I do not remember.. maybe the one close to the firewall, you will have to check on that one yourself if its right you will see it go to 14.8 on the wideband when its warmed up, if its not right it will be a lot richer.

didn't we just compare pictures where your screw was way high on the throttle cable bracket compared to mine? the slot only gives you a little adjustment from where the shaft is resting, so if the shaft is resting way out of spec, which it is, then the slot won't get you back in the right spot, well cause the slot is not that large.
you will need to back that screw in like I said, the one by the throttle cable not the idle screw.
IF the one by the throttle cable is not letting the throttle back, then it doesn't matter if you remove the idle screw even cause the other one is holding it way past the idle position already.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

this right here from your post a couple pages ago, the screw on the right is the reason you cannot get the tps in the right position, did you not fix it after I said that was the problem last time? screw it in till it looks like the one on the left does, then your idle screw (not pictured) will actually do something.

If you are using an obd2 ecu and never entering the "idl" mode that could explain a lot of weird things happening. I would correct this ASAP.
Once you do this the TPS slot will allow you to hit the right position.

187

I did lower it a lot actually and removed the cruise screw because it was getting in the way.

I might have a few mm left in the throttle screw to bring it down. I think its close when I checked the max voltage I could get to it was .58 without hitting this barrier.

So run the stock cap with no maf to test the cap?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I think I understood wrong before.

With continuity on the IDL pin, that means its saying to the ecu its idling.
what you want is when you open the throttle some, it should loose continuity.

In resistance speak, that means a resistance of like 2-3kohms when idling, and an infinite resistance when throttle is applied.

I totally forgot about the maf again. I guess you can't do that realistically. you would have to run it in blowthrough in the intercooler piping and that could cause other problems. I'll do a search on it though to see if its possible on the mk4 ecu. edit* looks like mixed results, I would just get a vpc/safc and call it a day.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...one-it-Results

187

Something has to be wrong because it couldn't have done this when n/a so I'm wondering why it would be like this now. I thought I should be able to get that idle mode anywhere in the slot as long as the idle air screw is positioned accordingly.

Yeah I read on the maf blow through in that thread a while back because people kept talking about response ect.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I only get the idl mode in like less than half of the slot, everything has to be setup generally close for it to happen in the slot. if you jumper to check the timing and hear the sound change, then you are in IDL as in it will have continuity. when you bliup the throttle it should go out of idl mode right away, or as close as you can get it, thats the purpose of the slot to adjust it to the edge of continuity at idle. I am not sure if that is your issue though I think its likely also somehing else.

Nice dizzy cap aznexus, that took alot of patience I am sure.

187

Okay, I'll bring down the screw by the throttle cable if I can then I'll try to bring it as close to .65 as possible.

I'm just curious if there is any effect, if not I'll have to go forward with getting rid of the distributor.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

have you heard the engine sound change when you jumper to check timing? if so you are already low enough that its engine IDL, the only reason to go lower then would be if your idle is still high after IACV turns on.