2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
01-21-15, 12:49 PM
#2371
*edit*
Adjusting the cruise one shouldn't affect the other one unless you raise the cruise above the main one, and it looks like the main one (on the right) is way above the cruise (on the left).
Try the one on the right and see if it will lower it. screw it further into the base.
Don't remove the screw just screw it in till its as closer to flush , you shouldn't have to go lower than that (would indicate somethings off somewhere else).
If the number goes up with the throttle cable on, then adjust those nuts on the throttle cable some towards the drivers side, this will give more slack in the cable. it should never be really tight that its pulling it back at idle, yours isn't really that tight but it wont let it go lower though is the problem until you loosen it.
some people tighten up the cable to raise the idle instead of using the idle screw and readjusting the cable but in this case it sounds like it was done just a little tight.
That screw on the right looks really out, I will take a look at my stock intake later and snap a pic of where its sitting.
That is the regular cable side on the right so I think that is the issue right there, screw that screw in some and it should lower more I think.
so loosen cable or remove cable, see if the screw on the right will let go further in, this should lower you down to a much lower % now.
loosen up throttle cable and reinstall making sure that it does not pull the wheel back any from the screw you just adjusted.
readjust tps. you should be good to go then.
*edit* added pic, quite a difference so I think thats where your extra % is coming from, that and the cable need adjusting.
I think I have adjusted mine before judging by the marks on the top from my pressure pliers.
Adjusting the cruise one shouldn't affect the other one unless you raise the cruise above the main one, and it looks like the main one (on the right) is way above the cruise (on the left).
Try the one on the right and see if it will lower it. screw it further into the base.
Don't remove the screw just screw it in till its as closer to flush , you shouldn't have to go lower than that (would indicate somethings off somewhere else).
If the number goes up with the throttle cable on, then adjust those nuts on the throttle cable some towards the drivers side, this will give more slack in the cable. it should never be really tight that its pulling it back at idle, yours isn't really that tight but it wont let it go lower though is the problem until you loosen it.
some people tighten up the cable to raise the idle instead of using the idle screw and readjusting the cable but in this case it sounds like it was done just a little tight.
That screw on the right looks really out, I will take a look at my stock intake later and snap a pic of where its sitting.
That is the regular cable side on the right so I think that is the issue right there, screw that screw in some and it should lower more I think.
so loosen cable or remove cable, see if the screw on the right will let go further in, this should lower you down to a much lower % now.
loosen up throttle cable and reinstall making sure that it does not pull the wheel back any from the screw you just adjusted.
readjust tps. you should be good to go then.
*edit* added pic, quite a difference so I think thats where your extra % is coming from, that and the cable need adjusting.
I think I have adjusted mine before judging by the marks on the top from my pressure pliers.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 01-21-15 at 01:06 PM.
01-21-15, 01:24 PM
#2372
Mines 100% still in the stock position which is way higher than yours.
My cable isn't very tight at all which is why I was surprised to see around .5%.
The only reason I mentioned the cruise screw was because its looks as if that also can hold the throttle open being that they connect to the same "arm" on the throttle.
Pretty happy to have another thing to try and get this thing going after a while, but not to happy to have to replace this battery =\
Also thanks for the quick reply.
My cable isn't very tight at all which is why I was surprised to see around .5%.
The only reason I mentioned the cruise screw was because its looks as if that also can hold the throttle open being that they connect to the same "arm" on the throttle.
Pretty happy to have another thing to try and get this thing going after a while, but not to happy to have to replace this battery =\
Also thanks for the quick reply.
01-23-15, 10:42 AM
#2375
The only part that wont be plug and play is a ge engine harness on a gte motor.
you can make a ge harness work on a gte motor but I would only do it if you are going single turbo.
to add all the turbo vsv's and stuff can be done but it increases the wiring substantially.
without the twin turbo stuff its not that bad though...
you will have to extend a couple things in the engine bay, mainly the crank sensor wire needs to be extended from distributor down to oil pump (2 wires not that bad), the cam sensor wires are already long enough and need to be unwrapped and pulled back from the distributor spot to the gte spot (you will have to wire up the grounds all together to the distributor ground wire).
you could also just run new shielded wiring from the ecu but thats really overkill doing the above with some shielded wiring off a spare ge harness works very well. connect the new shielding to the old shielding.
The tps wires are long enough already they just need to unwrapped, same for the idle air control valve.
the GE tps connector needs the wires flipped if you are using a gte throttle body and gte tps (spins opposite of GE tps).
Basically the harnesses have all the same sensors and stuff but they are in different spots.
coolant temp, engine temp, knock and most other sensors are in the same spots, one of the coolant sensors might need a different connector.
doing this would save you the cost of a swap harness. instead of taking 2 harnesses and making them one you are just altering your ge harness for what you need. mostly the couple things in the wrong spot that I mentioned and coilpacks but those are all easy to add my harness already has coils. all the other stuff is just a few hours of unwrapping, extending/relocating, and rewrapping.
you can make a ge harness work on a gte motor but I would only do it if you are going single turbo.
to add all the turbo vsv's and stuff can be done but it increases the wiring substantially.
without the twin turbo stuff its not that bad though...
you will have to extend a couple things in the engine bay, mainly the crank sensor wire needs to be extended from distributor down to oil pump (2 wires not that bad), the cam sensor wires are already long enough and need to be unwrapped and pulled back from the distributor spot to the gte spot (you will have to wire up the grounds all together to the distributor ground wire).
you could also just run new shielded wiring from the ecu but thats really overkill doing the above with some shielded wiring off a spare ge harness works very well. connect the new shielding to the old shielding.
The tps wires are long enough already they just need to unwrapped, same for the idle air control valve.
the GE tps connector needs the wires flipped if you are using a gte throttle body and gte tps (spins opposite of GE tps).
Basically the harnesses have all the same sensors and stuff but they are in different spots.
coolant temp, engine temp, knock and most other sensors are in the same spots, one of the coolant sensors might need a different connector.
doing this would save you the cost of a swap harness. instead of taking 2 harnesses and making them one you are just altering your ge harness for what you need. mostly the couple things in the wrong spot that I mentioned and coilpacks but those are all easy to add my harness already has coils. all the other stuff is just a few hours of unwrapping, extending/relocating, and rewrapping.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 01-23-15 at 10:46 AM.
01-23-15, 06:24 PM
#2376
Ali, both coolant sensors are on the wrong side of the head. They'd need to be extended about 6-8'' to be on the exh side. You could also use shielded wire and solder extensions onto the distributor plug to meet the cam/crank sensors. It would only look as neat as the effort put into it, but could possibly be done fairly clean and unobtrusive with the right materials.
Without reading through a million pages though, what have you been doing with IAT placement? I ran it into the ic piping and got a retarded rich idle, ended up using iirc a 2.2k ohm resistor based on previous experience installing a map ecu. I remembered they provided a resistor to stop iat corrections so the unit could use it's own provided sensor. seemed to do the job on that end. Not really worried about iat correction just because my ic setup is decently efficient.
Without reading through a million pages though, what have you been doing with IAT placement? I ran it into the ic piping and got a retarded rich idle, ended up using iirc a 2.2k ohm resistor based on previous experience installing a map ecu. I remembered they provided a resistor to stop iat corrections so the unit could use it's own provided sensor. seemed to do the job on that end. Not really worried about iat correction just because my ic setup is decently efficient.
01-25-15, 03:22 PM
#2377
So basically I gave up on lowering the % its just impossible with the throttle body.
Where I'm at now It doesn't really misfire until its warmed up and then starts missing on random cylinders?
A lot of ppl were saying distributor or coil issues or problems with the wires
Where I'm at now It doesn't really misfire until its warmed up and then starts missing on random cylinders?
A lot of ppl were saying distributor or coil issues or problems with the wires
01-25-15, 04:32 PM
#2378
Ali, both coolant sensors are on the wrong side of the head. They'd need to be extended about 6-8'' to be on the exh side. You could also use shielded wire and solder extensions onto the distributor plug to meet the cam/crank sensors. It would only look as neat as the effort put into it, but could possibly be done fairly clean and unobtrusive with the right materials.
Without reading through a million pages though, what have you been doing with IAT placement? I ran it into the ic piping and got a retarded rich idle, ended up using iirc a 2.2k ohm resistor based on previous experience installing a map ecu. I remembered they provided a resistor to stop iat corrections so the unit could use it's own provided sensor. seemed to do the job on that end. Not really worried about iat correction just because my ic setup is decently efficient.
Without reading through a million pages though, what have you been doing with IAT placement? I ran it into the ic piping and got a retarded rich idle, ended up using iirc a 2.2k ohm resistor based on previous experience installing a map ecu. I remembered they provided a resistor to stop iat corrections so the unit could use it's own provided sensor. seemed to do the job on that end. Not really worried about iat correction just because my ic setup is decently efficient.
01-25-15, 06:43 PM
#2379
Ali, both coolant sensors are on the wrong side of the head. They'd need to be extended about 6-8'' to be on the exh side. You could also use shielded wire and solder extensions onto the distributor plug to meet the cam/crank sensors. It would only look as neat as the effort put into it, but could possibly be done fairly clean and unobtrusive with the right materials.
Without reading through a million pages though, what have you been doing with IAT placement? I ran it into the ic piping and got a retarded rich idle, ended up using iirc a 2.2k ohm resistor based on previous experience installing a map ecu. I remembered they provided a resistor to stop iat corrections so the unit could use it's own provided sensor. seemed to do the job on that end. Not really worried about iat correction just because my ic setup is decently efficient.
Without reading through a million pages though, what have you been doing with IAT placement? I ran it into the ic piping and got a retarded rich idle, ended up using iirc a 2.2k ohm resistor based on previous experience installing a map ecu. I remembered they provided a resistor to stop iat corrections so the unit could use it's own provided sensor. seemed to do the job on that end. Not really worried about iat correction just because my ic setup is decently efficient.
I have been using my old aem ems IAT which was like a universal one. I have it in the intake pipe in front of the turbo and it seems to do well there. I was going to do it in the I/C piping but with everyone using resistors and stuff I figured its not that important. mine seems to run fine, my theory is the stock temp sensor gets up to a certain temp and more or less stays constant from heat soaking on the intake manifold, so it getting cold readings from the intercooler piping maybe it is throwing it off. try sticking it in the intake pipe with the stock ecu.
I will be converting my car to a mapecu3 soon so I can chime on my findings. Currently my car has the IAT In the upper IC piping near the cruise control. I'm running 550cc injectors and pulling fuel using an safc neo. From my understanding I'll need to disconnect the O2 sensor but I wasn't aware of needing to use a resistor for the stock IAT, I'm assuming the resistor just locks the temperature the ecu sees at a constant voltage ? I know that the tune can adjust based on IAT temps.
01-26-15, 01:35 PM
#2380
The cap is brand new and the rotor/wires have maybe 3000 miles on them.
I didn't use a 4runner rotor but i read that it wasn't needed.
The car never misfired when this whole project started so I wouldn't really want to blame any sensors after the whole tps ordeal.
I was thinking maybe I have a leak at the egr or at the intake gasket that I just can't find. I wouldn't think having the egr bypassed with the resistor would cause any issues. I also looked at some stuff on voltage leaking out of the system.
Also I was thinking maybe the bov is sucking in air or something.
I didn't use a 4runner rotor but i read that it wasn't needed.
The car never misfired when this whole project started so I wouldn't really want to blame any sensors after the whole tps ordeal.
I was thinking maybe I have a leak at the egr or at the intake gasket that I just can't find. I wouldn't think having the egr bypassed with the resistor would cause any issues. I also looked at some stuff on voltage leaking out of the system.
Also I was thinking maybe the bov is sucking in air or something.
01-26-15, 02:27 PM
#2381
are you using a 4runner cap? those things can cause problems, even ruined one of my distributors once.
If so maybe try the stock cap again and use a 3" intake pipe to clear. you should always use the sc300 rotor.
did you try unplugging that 2nd crank sensor? that may be part of it as I said misfire usually indicates some problem with the ecu reading the timing or ignition system being off, so maybe its just noise in the system that the gte ecu wouldn't have, and the gte ecu does not have 2 crank sensors.
bov sucking in air can throw things off, but just check the piston at idle to see if its closed or not. as it warms up it should open more generally as the engine pulls more vacuum so check it when fully warmed up.
egr leak by the intake manifold, I only know one way of checking. when the motor is cold in the morning, I pop the hood, go around and start the engine up, and while things are still cold I stick my hand down behind the intake manifold and feel around the egr port on the intake side. if you have a leak you will feel the pulses of exhaust coming out from there. I usually do it when the motors cold and quickly as not to burn myself, it only takes a few seconds to check if you have a leak and things won't even heat up that much by then.
If so maybe try the stock cap again and use a 3" intake pipe to clear. you should always use the sc300 rotor.
did you try unplugging that 2nd crank sensor? that may be part of it as I said misfire usually indicates some problem with the ecu reading the timing or ignition system being off, so maybe its just noise in the system that the gte ecu wouldn't have, and the gte ecu does not have 2 crank sensors.
bov sucking in air can throw things off, but just check the piston at idle to see if its closed or not. as it warms up it should open more generally as the engine pulls more vacuum so check it when fully warmed up.
egr leak by the intake manifold, I only know one way of checking. when the motor is cold in the morning, I pop the hood, go around and start the engine up, and while things are still cold I stick my hand down behind the intake manifold and feel around the egr port on the intake side. if you have a leak you will feel the pulses of exhaust coming out from there. I usually do it when the motors cold and quickly as not to burn myself, it only takes a few seconds to check if you have a leak and things won't even heat up that much by then.
01-26-15, 02:54 PM
#2382
I haven't look at anything crank sensor related. I'll have to try rigging up the intake to try out the stock distributor. The bov is a ssqv type bov so not really sure how to check that out. And I can try that with the egr but were getting two feet of snow tonight so I'll probably hold off on that.
Also I think I mentioned before but the battery is going bad and needs to be replaced, it is charged at the moment though. I have no idea how old it is since it came in the car used but died twice from just sitting out in the cold.
Also I think I mentioned before but the battery is going bad and needs to be replaced, it is charged at the moment though. I have no idea how old it is since it came in the car used but died twice from just sitting out in the cold.
01-27-15, 02:31 PM
#2384