Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I tighten my intercooler clamps almost to the point of snapping. I usually snap at least one or 2 especially if they have been on the car a while they get more brittle.

187

Ive only broken one so far.

Only got one numerical answer of 3, which just kind of puts me back to that nut behind the tps. I'm not entirely sure that would be a proper solution and I can't use the gte tps.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

if you are at 10-11% at idle it seems a bit high. why not just take the idle screw to where its backed out all the way and not touching the arm any more. that is basically the correct position.

I understand that in that position you will have a low base idle and probably the stalling issue, but as per that supraforums thread its normal and solved by a map conversion, not by bumping up the idle as we though. bumping it up must be throwing something else off. I can tell you when my car is idling at 650 rpm's it used to run really really well other than that, when I bump it up some it starts to act screwy.

my advice, back the screw out until its not engaging the arm (make sure there is slack in the throttle cable and throttle opener to allow the arm to retract all the way), then turn in the screw just to where it touching the aem and lock it down. then move your tps to the lowest % position. this is what I would do if I was in your shoes and then solve the stalling problem with a vpc/safc or a map ecu.

apparently this is the reason why majority of single turbo supras in the US have to use the vpc, because the stock maf can support 6-700whp so its not just the maf thats the reason people buy one, its cause of the stalling issue.

you guys also could use a USDM ecu just for certain times, and use a JDM ecu the rest of the time. just wire a safc on the map sensor and leave the tt maf in and you should be able to swap out ecu's on the fly. the US ecu does not care what you do to the map signal unless you have twin turbo's still, so you don't have to change any settings when swapping them out. neat right?

187

Even with the screw backed nearly all the way out(way out), if I turn the tps to the middle of the slot it has continuity. So it enters that mode where its constantly thinking its revving. Also towards the stock position (continuity) its closer to 12-13%.

The car seems to be happy with the idle screw/tps combo using that tsrm section I posted previously. I was thinking the car is just trying to idle up because it thinks its at 10% throttle when its at 2-5%. And when you back the screw that far out it just gives you a really laggy throttle if its not in line with the tps.

I need to go over the whole thing again, because the idle is still high. But it seems as though I would be on the right track as far as the tps being a bit off and the car misfiring.

Would you really need a safc for the jdm ecu? Can it not trim back ~100cc on its own?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah I think if you loosen the throttle cable or throttle opener you will find it go down to 2-3% and it will cure the high idle. both of those things can prevent the arm from going all the way back even if you back out the screw all the way. I would give it a good go over, maybe even take the cable off, make sure nothing is on it and if you still have a high idle you might have a leak on the intake somewhere, check that you didn't badly bendany of the metal intake gaskets and small vac hoses etc...

actually some people have run 550's just fine, its the 600+ where it gets messy. when you step on it and it goes to open loop though it will run richer than usual and in WOT, but if you run enough boost and you don't care about the mpg's it should mostly adjust on its own. if it boosts fine then yeah you might not even need one.

187

Yeah I was concerned with that gasket because they are mischievous. I've reused the gasket before with no issues being very careful but I have thought about it. Hopefully I can find something this weekend.

The jdm ecu is a good backup, however I still need the usdm to pass a yearly inspection. Well there's ways around that if it comes down to it.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

well I got a chance to fix the downpipe leak, that was actually pretty easy just had to loosen and turn the clamp and tighten it back down, was at a bit of an angle apparently.

bad news is the pinging is still there.
I have looked into it more and I can only come up with carbon deposits, clogged fuel filter, or I need to do the 12v fuel pump mod (this is a stretch really I think).

it seems that pinging when accelerating that goes away when you hammer it seems to have something to do with carbon deposits from hat I am reading online. this does make sense actually for me because the car runs way rich in boost, my exhaust is always super sooty, and I hooked my PCV back up when I put the new FFIM on (also had it on with the stock intake for a while). Now I am thinking that the PCV and the rich mixtures have given me carbon deposits in the cylinders and that would explain the pinging I think as soon as the deposits heat up they act like a spark plug which causes the pinging.

so I think I am going to pull some plugs and have a look in the cylinders. maybe change the plugs just to be safe and also try the 12v fuel mod. I will change the filter if it comes down to that I just want that noise to go away its super annoying lol. car still pulls like crazy at WOT and idles like its purring, its really baffling.
I am really hoping it doesn't come down to putting the stock intake back on, I like my new intercooler setup.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah so after pulling plugs 6 5 and 3 I found a common theme of black soot around the threads of the plug and an oily film at the base of the plug threads on the head that I have never seen before. Also taking a peak inside at the cylinder tops they are no longer shiny like when I just had my motor apart or last looked at them, but are now covered in carbon deposits so I think I found the source of the pinging.

Basically I found there was too much oil spray and I think its from the pcv connected to the FFIM. When it was connected to the stock intake I never had this issue, and right now it is connected to a good sized hose on my vacuum distribution block which gets full engine vacuum. maybe the stock vacuum spot for the PCV is ported and doesn't get full engine vacuum I am thinking... either way its coming off and getting a Seafoam Treatment or whatever can get those pistons clean again.

kinda relieved its not something more serious actually.

187

Sounds like you could use some Meth/water injection.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Put the seafoam on the cylinder tops, let it sit over night. Then use a turkey baster and pull the fluid out of each cylinder and change the oil. This will loosen the carbon on the tops pretty good and when you turn it on the heat will do the rest. I've done this trick with my oem block on the DSM before and it helps but doesn't always completely fix it.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah, probably would help steam clean it some.
Really regretting running that PCV, the hose was like lined in oil.
Now I have my 2nd breather back on the valve cover should be better next time.

Thanks for the tip might have to give that a go or just suck it up though the vacuum lines and let it sit for a while. do you use like a nylon brush or something though the plug hole or just let it soak? It just started happening recently so I am hoping it will clear out easily also. from what I can see its not completely covered, just has spots of deposits on the top.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Used to look like this when the tt headgasket went in, this was after being boosted on the stock headgasket at 11 psi with the pcv for like a year.


Hard to see but those spots are the clean parts around the deposits I think, its like the FFIM just poured the PCV oil in there.
funny thing is the cams and top end look perfectly oiled still, the only place with deposits seems to be the cylinders.

Osbornecox

How do I hook up the sc400 power steering reservoir? Does the big hose go to the pump itself with the supra fitting and the other line get hooked up for vacuum? I know this thread is for the ecu swap but figured I would ask in here since there is a lot of na-t/ffim info. Thanks

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

The other small hose half way up the side of the reservoir is the return line back from the rack.
It's like a fountain the bottom hose of reservoir feeds fluid to the pump, pump pushes it through rack and back into side of reservoir to start over again.

The stock one is bolted to the power steering pump, and then there is a nipple for a small hose half way up the side.

The sc400 one instead of being bolted onto something has a nipple for a large hose coming out the bottom, and then there is a nipple for a small hose half way up the side.

So just take the small hose from the stock reservoir, and extend it to the side of the sc400 reservoir. its the same size so it should slide on the same and use a new clamp on it.
I don't actually extend it though if you follow the small hose it goes to a hardline right by the fusebox, so I usually just remove it and use 1 longer hose from hardline to wherever the sc400 reservoir is going.

The bottom hose nipple on the sc400 resevoir for the larger hose, that needs to run to where the old power steeering reservoir was bolted down, basically running into the pump. To connect a hose onto the pump you need the nipple off a tt supra and the O-ring that goes with it.

these are the part numbers.
44337-24020 Union
90301-11016 Ring, O

this union with the oring will bolt onto the top of the power steering pump (using one of the old reservoir bolt holes) and it will let you connect a hose to the pump so you can run it to the bottom of the sc400 reservoir.

hopefully that makes sense.
now a picture

On the left you can see the 2jzge reservoir being bolted to the pump with an O-ring.
On the right you can see the 2jzgte union nipple being bolted to the pump with an O-ring.

The best advice anyone can give you when doing this is after removing the 2jz-ge power steering reservoir, IMMEDIATELY put the bolts back into the power steering pump that used to hold the reservoir on.
Alot of people forget their first time (including myself), and do not realize these bolts also hold the 2 halves of the pump sealed together. If you forget, when driving power steering will shoot out the sides of the pump and start to ruin the pump seals as air enters the system. its really messy for the engine and bad for your pump.

everything else is very straight forward.

187

So finally just went outside to check on the throttle stuff before it snows today. The lowest I can get is 8.63 with everything off including the throttle cable. With the cable on it jumps up to 9.01.

So basically I was thinking the only thing I can do it remove that cruise control screw (left) to gain some room and lower the main throttle screw (right) and maybe that will get me in range?

I mean removing the throttle cable got me almost a half degree with zero noticeable movement.

Any problems with this other than having to adjust the throttle cable I would guess?

Also my battery is dead from sitting in the cold so that is a problem.