2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
12-05-14, 04:40 PM
#2298
12-06-14, 09:30 AM
#2300
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I've run my car without an IACV for 2 months. I've stalled my car many times while the engine isn't fully warm and I'm turning out of my garage onto my alley 
For your Tial BOV, what spring are you running? I'm running an 11psi spring on a 50mm Tial BOV. I've tried a 7psi and a 9psi spring before. With a 7psi spring, my BOV would always stay open at warm idle (19-20mmhg vacuum) and at part throttle. As for the 9psi spring, my BOV piston would have a mind of its own. A 11psi spring did the trick. I should have followed Tial's spring-vacuum chart before I ordered my BOV.
For your Tial BOV, what spring are you running? I'm running an 11psi spring on a 50mm Tial BOV. I've tried a 7psi and a 9psi spring before. With a 7psi spring, my BOV would always stay open at warm idle (19-20mmhg vacuum) and at part throttle. As for the 9psi spring, my BOV piston would have a mind of its own. A 11psi spring did the trick. I should have followed Tial's spring-vacuum chart before I ordered my BOV.
I have no idea what psi spring is in my tial.
12-07-14, 11:10 AM
#2302
Well I was able to get my idle down to around 1000 after moving the tps back into position. However after a few minutes of driving it started to act like its old self again.
So I'm getting missfires on every cylinder with new plugs, the tps is in range and the idle feels good but the afr's are still doing a bit of searching and not hanging on one particular number.
I'm not sure but for whatever reason it seems to be the worst when stopping going up hill (my driveway). I'm pretty much out of ideas at this point, so yeah.
So I'm getting missfires on every cylinder with new plugs, the tps is in range and the idle feels good but the afr's are still doing a bit of searching and not hanging on one particular number.
I'm not sure but for whatever reason it seems to be the worst when stopping going up hill (my driveway). I'm pretty much out of ideas at this point, so yeah.
12-08-14, 01:26 PM
#2303
I am starting to think this whole usdm ecu thing is not worth it.
Maybe I should rename it to 92-95 5spd SC300 JDM TT ecu mod... lol.
did you guys route the acis butterfly like I showed straight to the intake?
187 I would still go down further to 800 rpm's. you aren't there yet.
Maybe I should rename it to 92-95 5spd SC300 JDM TT ecu mod... lol.
did you guys route the acis butterfly like I showed straight to the intake?
187 I would still go down further to 800 rpm's. you aren't there yet.
12-08-14, 05:53 PM
#2304
I am starting to think this whole usdm ecu thing is not worth it.
Maybe I should rename it to 92-95 5spd SC300 JDM TT ecu mod... lol.
did you guys route the acis butterfly like I showed straight to the intake?
187 I would still go down further to 800 rpm's. you aren't there yet.
Maybe I should rename it to 92-95 5spd SC300 JDM TT ecu mod... lol.
did you guys route the acis butterfly like I showed straight to the intake?
187 I would still go down further to 800 rpm's. you aren't there yet.
There is no way to get to 800 its either high or low based on the idle air screw. The only way to get under 1000 would be to slot the tps but I don't think its the right way to go. And a vacuum leak seems to fit alot of my symptoms.
Also I didn't do anything with the butterfly, though I remember seeing your post.
12-09-14, 10:35 AM
#2306
a small leak could be raising the idle on a map car but on a maf car it would probably run badly. just do a 1/8 to 1/4 turn back on the screw from where you are should land you in the 8-900 after the ecu has been reset. If you are at 1000 you are letting in air via the throttle body still cause the IACV is at the lowest position. the IACV can't go lower so you shuold be able to get it lower via the screw. if you go to far and close it so that it cannot hold 650 the ecu will open up the IACV more and you will feel like nothing is happening.
whatever position you do leave it at always set the tps after playing with the idle screw. I am going to go out and refit my whole tps adapter to get a better range and do the tps adjustment by the book for once and see how it goes. I got my map ecu to work how I want it now after the reflash but hoping I can fix the issue on the stock map sensor before installing that.
Its funny cause I get a little studder/knck/hesitation at 1-3k rpm's when blipping the throttle too quick, but at WOT at 18 psi it pulls like a freight train.
Actually it drives really well except for the hesitation thing. I have been reading on supraforums it happens to mk4's also, and most say it has to do with tps...
Slammed into boost cut around 18 psi in 4th the other day (elevation over here makes 4.x volts come at a higher boost level), was still very fun though.
Once I get the map ecu in I will raise the boost cut to around 20 psi and call it a day. I like that I can program it to boost cut at any psi instead of just disabling it completely in case I over boost (you know melted wastegate vac line or other random problems). if I can get rid of the studder now I would be pretty happy camper with the setup again.
whatever position you do leave it at always set the tps after playing with the idle screw. I am going to go out and refit my whole tps adapter to get a better range and do the tps adjustment by the book for once and see how it goes. I got my map ecu to work how I want it now after the reflash but hoping I can fix the issue on the stock map sensor before installing that.
Its funny cause I get a little studder/knck/hesitation at 1-3k rpm's when blipping the throttle too quick, but at WOT at 18 psi it pulls like a freight train.
Actually it drives really well except for the hesitation thing. I have been reading on supraforums it happens to mk4's also, and most say it has to do with tps...
Slammed into boost cut around 18 psi in 4th the other day (elevation over here makes 4.x volts come at a higher boost level), was still very fun though.
Once I get the map ecu in I will raise the boost cut to around 20 psi and call it a day. I like that I can program it to boost cut at any psi instead of just disabling it completely in case I over boost (you know melted wastegate vac line or other random problems). if I can get rid of the studder now I would be pretty happy camper with the setup again.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 12-09-14 at 10:41 AM.
12-09-14, 03:23 PM
#2307
The car is running pretty bad since its getting misses on every cylinder and it is trying to foul the plugs on the low end by over fueling. I have just been playing with the screw only because the tps has been maxed out at like 10% (lowest).
Because the egr doesn't have that stock gasket any more and the injectors are aftermarket I figure its best to at least rule something out.
If there is a leak setting the idle is kind of futile with the obd2, or so it would seem.
Because the egr doesn't have that stock gasket any more and the injectors are aftermarket I figure its best to at least rule something out.
If there is a leak setting the idle is kind of futile with the obd2, or so it would seem.
12-10-14, 12:14 AM
#2308
The car is running pretty bad since its getting misses on every cylinder and it is trying to foul the plugs on the low end by over fueling. I have just been playing with the screw only because the tps has been maxed out at like 10% (lowest).
Because the egr doesn't have that stock gasket any more and the injectors are aftermarket I figure its best to at least rule something out.
If there is a leak setting the idle is kind of futile with the obd2, or so it would seem.
Because the egr doesn't have that stock gasket any more and the injectors are aftermarket I figure its best to at least rule something out.
If there is a leak setting the idle is kind of futile with the obd2, or so it would seem.
12-10-14, 06:22 AM
#2309
The idle goes to 14.7 then leans out to around 15.9 then back up. I can watch the short term fueling go up and down as it leans and richens. And as this is happening the car is missing now.
12-10-14, 10:10 AM
#2310
10% may be too much, maybe these ecu;s have to idle at 650 for the tps to be in the right lower range (where the screws still line up with the tps slots).
try dropping it back to stock range and reset it and see if the afr's start behaving.
I re clocked my q45 tps adapter to give me a lower range on the tps at idle, I am going to give it a try and see if the afr's are better now. I also removed the charcoal canister from going to the port on the q45 throttle body, I was starting to think maybe that is affecting the fueling but putting too much vacuum on the tank, so now its only hooked up through the vsv no port on the throttle body. will take it for a drive soon hopefully and report back.
try dropping it back to stock range and reset it and see if the afr's start behaving.
I re clocked my q45 tps adapter to give me a lower range on the tps at idle, I am going to give it a try and see if the afr's are better now. I also removed the charcoal canister from going to the port on the q45 throttle body, I was starting to think maybe that is affecting the fueling but putting too much vacuum on the tank, so now its only hooked up through the vsv no port on the throttle body. will take it for a drive soon hopefully and report back.