SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)

2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod

Old 12-02-14, 09:59 PM
  #2281  
aznexus
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187: Have you tried taking off the IACV and giving it a good cleaning? I took mine apart and found caked-on gunk between the plate and the plunger.

Ali_sc3: Any luck on getting rid of the pinging?
Old 12-03-14, 03:38 AM
  #2282  
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Originally Posted by aznexus
187: Have you tried taking off the IACV and giving it a good cleaning? I took mine apart and found caked-on gunk between the plate and the plunger.

Ali_sc3: Any luck on getting rid of the pinging?
No, but I did consider it. However it seems to be in good working order with all the trials i've put it through.
Old 12-03-14, 09:37 AM
  #2283  
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I haven't messed with it too much, but I did bring the idle back down to normal 650-750 base position and reset the ecu. I need to find my multimeter so I can double check the tps voltage, but its probably in a better voltage position now from backing off the idle screw. I haven't taken it for a spin again.

Even when I am turning (I disconnected the power steering idle up switch so rpm's dip a bit when turning), and lets say I let the clutch out too fast, I have literally had the rpm's fall down to about 100, the engine almost shut off, but then does a quick combustion or 2 and then boom back to 650. its pretty amazing how hard it is to stall even at 650rpm with no idle up switch. I know the maf guys are having more trouble with the rpm's dipping but 650-750 seems to be the normal idle for all 2jzge and 2jzgte.

I have noticed that my bov is not responding as crisp as it used to so I need to confirm its still closed at idle or whatever sometimes the tials can really throw you for a loop when they stay open at part throttle. hopefully I wont have to pull the bumper to get to it... hopefully.

If I can't figure it out I will likely start running a mix of gas and e85. I read an article on how you can just run E85 all the time on the stock ecu if you have the right size injectors, like 40% larger or something.
I was thinking of giving it a try with some 660's and the map ecu for trimming once I get the map ecu working how I want it. then I should be able to run as much timing and boost as the injectors can support on pure e85 which would be interesting.

sometimes I think I should just leave it alone and use the stock intake... lol, but when the car shows come around I miss having my FFIM =(

Last edited by Ali SC3; 12-03-14 at 09:40 AM.
Old 12-03-14, 12:48 PM
  #2284  
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I thought you need special pumps and gas lines to run e85 on top of larger injectors?

All I know is its the the best bang for you buck power wise for boosted cars, not that we need it right away plus the w58 situation.

I can't see anyone ever going back to the stock intake once that thing is gone.
Old 12-03-14, 03:18 PM
  #2285  
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Originally Posted by 187
I thought you need special pumps and gas lines to run e85 on top of larger injectors?

All I know is its the the best bang for you buck power wise for boosted cars, not that we need it right away plus the w58 situation.

I can't see anyone ever going back to the stock intake once that thing is gone.
E85 requires 30-40% more fuel for the same combustion, so usually more fuel pump flow, larger lines, larger injectors are required to achieve higher power levels.

Another concern is the cleansing affect the ethanol has on our 20 year old gas tank and lines. Most replace fuel filters and fuel socks after some miles as the ethanol will wash the all the dirt and grime into the fuel and it can clogg up the injectors and filters easily.

However assuming you replace the filters, and have enough fuel mods, e85 is king when it comes to knock suppression which allows more boost and higher timing. The closest e85 station to me is about an hour or so one way otherwise I would of tried it already.
Old 12-03-14, 05:11 PM
  #2286  
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Also just wanted to throw out that the 2jzge/gte trouble shooting guide indicates that the throttle position should be under 5 degrees.

So if I'm at 10% theoretically I'm at 9 degrees. Though when i checked the WOT it was in the 70's so it may just be interpreting degrees as a percentage which would just make the 9 a 10. Either way, would that be a problem?

5 would be possible only outside of the slots and physically unbolting the pronged piece the moves with the throttle plate.
Old 12-03-14, 10:58 PM
  #2287  
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Originally Posted by 187
No, but I did consider it. However it seems to be in good working order with all the trials i've put it through.
The reason I bring up the IACV cleaning is there may be a chance the IACV is dirty enough at the valve to leak air when it's at closed position. Unlikely, but just another thing to clean and rule out.
Old 12-03-14, 11:13 PM
  #2288  
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3
I haven't messed with it too much, but I did bring the idle back down to normal 650-750 base position and reset the ecu. I need to find my multimeter so I can double check the tps voltage, but its probably in a better voltage position now from backing off the idle screw. I haven't taken it for a spin again.

Even when I am turning (I disconnected the power steering idle up switch so rpm's dip a bit when turning), and lets say I let the clutch out too fast, I have literally had the rpm's fall down to about 100, the engine almost shut off, but then does a quick combustion or 2 and then boom back to 650. its pretty amazing how hard it is to stall even at 650rpm with no idle up switch. I know the maf guys are having more trouble with the rpm's dipping but 650-750 seems to be the normal idle for all 2jzge and 2jzgte.

I have noticed that my bov is not responding as crisp as it used to so I need to confirm its still closed at idle or whatever sometimes the tials can really throw you for a loop when they stay open at part throttle. hopefully I wont have to pull the bumper to get to it... hopefully.

If I can't figure it out I will likely start running a mix of gas and e85. I read an article on how you can just run E85 all the time on the stock ecu if you have the right size injectors, like 40% larger or something.
I was thinking of giving it a try with some 660's and the map ecu for trimming once I get the map ecu working how I want it. then I should be able to run as much timing and boost as the injectors can support on pure e85 which would be interesting.

sometimes I think I should just leave it alone and use the stock intake... lol, but when the car shows come around I miss having my FFIM =(
I've run my car without an IACV for 2 months. I've stalled my car many times while the engine isn't fully warm and I'm turning out of my garage onto my alley

For your Tial BOV, what spring are you running? I'm running an 11psi spring on a 50mm Tial BOV. I've tried a 7psi and a 9psi spring before. With a 7psi spring, my BOV would always stay open at warm idle (19-20mmhg vacuum) and at part throttle. As for the 9psi spring, my BOV piston would have a mind of its own. A 11psi spring did the trick. I should have followed Tial's spring-vacuum chart before I ordered my BOV.
Old 12-04-14, 09:50 AM
  #2289  
Ali SC3
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Originally Posted by 187
I thought you need special pumps and gas lines to run e85 on top of larger injectors?

All I know is its the the best bang for you buck power wise for boosted cars, not that we need it right away plus the w58 situation.

I can't see anyone ever going back to the stock intake once that thing is gone.
our stock lines dont have rubber in them, thay are metal all the way through factory and can resist e85 just fine. its the older cars that use fuel injection hose you have to worry about, that hose will not hold up. I already have a larger pump and the factory lines should be fine for the power I am making. yeah if you want big hp numbers you need bigger lines and possibly a second pump.

yeah the FFIM is probably not coming off this winter, If I can't get it to work right then I will have to see next season.

Originally Posted by HiPSI
E85 requires 30-40% more fuel for the same combustion, so usually more fuel pump flow, larger lines, larger injectors are required to achieve higher power levels.

Another concern is the cleansing affect the ethanol has on our 20 year old gas tank and lines. Most replace fuel filters and fuel socks after some miles as the ethanol will wash the all the dirt and grime into the fuel and it can clogg up the injectors and filters easily.

However assuming you replace the filters, and have enough fuel mods, e85 is king when it comes to knock suppression which allows more boost and higher timing. The closest e85 station to me is about an hour or so one way otherwise I would of tried it already.
Yeah thats the worst part is how much it cleans everything up. if you are on a blend it might not be so bad but yeah I suspect if I go to full e85 I will have to change a couple fuel filters, once probably right after and then again later down the line or else I will clog the injectors.

the closest e85 station around here is about 5-10 minutes from my house so its pretty tempting for me to experiment with it considering my only other option is 91 gas I think its nearing the time I need to convert. I don't even care whatsoever about mpg's, I drive the SC for fun, not to get from A to B efficiently.

Originally Posted by aznexus
I've run my car without an IACV for 2 months. I've stalled my car many times while the engine isn't fully warm and I'm turning out of my garage onto my alley

For your Tial BOV, what spring are you running? I'm running an 11psi spring on a 50mm Tial BOV. I've tried a 7psi and a 9psi spring before. With a 7psi spring, my BOV would always stay open at warm idle (19-20mmhg vacuum) and at part throttle. As for the 9psi spring, my BOV piston would have a mind of its own. A 11psi spring did the trick. I should have followed Tial's spring-vacuum chart before I ordered my BOV.
yeah when its cold its def worse without the IACV, when its warmed up it tends to catch itself for me. with the iacv cold there is also no problems it stays around 1k rpm.
The tial is funny cause I have to use one pressure with the FFIM and one spring pressure with the stock intake, the FFIM pulls more vacuum for some odd reason so I think I need to go back to the stiffer spring or what I usually do is reuse the lighter spring and shim it with a washer (sometimes 2). I tried going up to the next larger spring and the darn thing would hardly open even under boost. I think I might be pulling it open in part throttle and that can mess with the afr's, so I will likely have to take it off and shim it just to be safe. should have probalby remembered while it was sitting on the bench instead of now in the fender

Last edited by Ali SC3; 12-04-14 at 09:53 AM.
Old 12-04-14, 09:55 AM
  #2290  
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3

Yeah thats the worst part is how much it cleans everything up. if you are on a blend it might not be so bad but yeah I suspect if I go to full e85 I will have to change a couple fuel filters, once probably right after and then again later down the line or else I will clog the injectors.

the closest e85 station around here is about 5-10 minutes from my house so its pretty tempting for me to experiment with it considering my only other option is 91 gas I think its nearing the time I need to convert. I don't even care whatsoever about mpg's, I drive the SC for fun, not to get from A to B efficiently.
Wow 5-10 minutes away and its not your daily, you absolutely need to try e85! Plus I'm curious how the stock ecu will control it.

I have been contemplating storing 55 gal drums of it and having a pump to put it in the car that's how badly I'd like to run it.
Old 12-04-14, 10:17 AM
  #2291  
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yeah the station by me is a pretty big reliable one too, I think I should go for it, gonna probably start with a blend and see how it likes it. maybe start with 25-40% e85 mixed with gas . for 100% e85 I will definitely need the larger injectors.

I have put e85 in the tank before, I want to say I had about a half tank of gas and put in like 2 gallons of e85. car ran just fine, actually it ran pretty darn smooth and the emissions dropped considerably. There is also something about the burning corn smell vs gas that is appealing, the exhaust smells more natural on cars that are full e85.

Oumar used to do the e85 drums when he was running it, but he had to use it for a daily so it was not as fun I imagine day in and day out to do that. he has got me thinking about that pro-efi ecu now also.
Old 12-04-14, 11:02 AM
  #2292  
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You can run E85 on stock ecu with a map ecu or whatever..is it the best way to do it ? Hell NO..What happens when you get cheap gas? It wont be fun...

I tried it on my Aem V1 and it was fun at first but I got frustrated with it since I couldn't run anything else but E85..
It was perfect for a weekend car but it started to get to me when I was spending $750 a month to drive the car every day.. I was getting 200-250 on the fuel tank.

Everytime I leave my house in the morning I have to fill up, I go through 1/2 tank of gas a day , I drive 30miles roundtrip to work but the stop and go traffic was killing my MPG.

Clean the tank really well before you start running ethanol because It will clog everything up..I learned the hard way.

10-20 microns SS filters will work great and that's what I run.

Proefi was the best thing I could have done, I wasted my time and money on aem + tuning...I had put 20+k miles on my car on e85 +aem v1.
All that money I spent on ethanol , I could have bought an ecu that would do ff and I would have to worry about anything.
I will show you how it runs with the flex fuel setup properly, it works like a dream.. hell I put 87 octane in the tank and still be able to drive around with no hickups.
I can run from 87octane to e85 and the car wont miss a bit!!
Old 12-04-14, 11:24 AM
  #2293  
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I know ideally ProEFI is the best way to convert to e85, but the cost of making that switch is pretty significant. However the cost of the Aristo / JDM ecu swap plus the cost of a mapecu isn't cheap either! Is the newer versions of mapecu better and worth the cost?

I feel like there could be so many 600whp NA-T setups out there if E85 was more readily available. Then the real issue is the drivetrain supporting the new power!
Old 12-04-14, 01:37 PM
  #2294  
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yeah I would love to be able to run the pro efi but not sure I want to do that just yet I have some plans going for another vehicle right now =)
Thanks for the info on the filters but now I think I may just be using a blend.
you mean actually remove the tank and clean it out. that sounds like a pain.

The car was driving great on the FFIM not too long ago, I must have done something to it again you guys have motivated me to go and look at it I will check it out again later today while there is still no snow around here.
It still pulls hard in boost with no issues, its just the spool up is being affected with this afr knock thing it used to be smooth as butter.

hopefully the blow off valve and tps adjustments should help out. I think I even have another o2 sensor to try.

the map ecu I just got one for a really good deal on ebay for the version 1, but for this sort of across the board % correction you can use a safc even.
If you could land just the right size injectors theoretically the ecu should be able to compensate itself but you know how that goes there is a lot of guesswork involved.
Old 12-04-14, 08:48 PM
  #2295  
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Picking up an SAFC soon. Decided to stick with it now that school is calming down and next semester should be a breeze. The SAFC should cover the rich issues at WOT. Literally read the entire thread the other night and spoke with buffnstuff and I'm back in it.

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