2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
11-15-14, 12:35 PM
#2251
Did this (pretty difficult) to make the tps happy, I would recommend this if you have a nice set of feeler gauges around.
Also cleaned my TB and now the car runs/idles much better, the idle is high because my tps is tilted way to one side. Going to order new plugs, cylinder 1 was "wet" and I still have the codes for missing cylinders pending so I think they are just cooked from trial and error.
Still got 12.1-11.1 at WOT and the idle does not go 10.00 after revving the engine in neutral.
11-15-14, 05:54 PM
#2252
good that means that its doing the deceleration fuel cut properly. helps to have the tps in range. give the idle some time to correct, if it does not lower itself down to below 1000 when fully warmed up in a few drives, then adjust the screw down like 1/4 turn at a time till you are there. verify tps after any adjustment as usual but lowering the rpm generally does not cause the problem like when raising it.
11-15-14, 06:29 PM
#2253
good that means that its doing the deceleration fuel cut properly. helps to have the tps in range. give the idle some time to correct, if it does not lower itself down to below 1000 when fully warmed up in a few drives, then adjust the screw down like 1/4 turn at a time till you are there. verify tps after any adjustment as usual but lowering the rpm generally does not cause the problem like when raising it.
I'll see if it idles down further after some driving tomorrow, but I would say it hovers around 1100.
11-16-14, 07:53 AM
#2254
I was thinking to get the idle down I would just move the tps back to near stock and then readjust the screw again? It seems as though the tps has more effect on the idle rpm than the screw. The idle has never been this high with the relative screw position.
I'll see if it idles down further after some driving tomorrow, but I would say it hovers around 1100.
I'll see if it idles down further after some driving tomorrow, but I would say it hovers around 1100.
This is because the ECU is adjusting the IACV valve to compensate for the idle, it wants 650-700rpm, not 1100rpm. I have never adjusted or touched anything other than the TPS position on my car, and it idles down to 650rpm rock solid, I just let it do its thing.
11-17-14, 01:29 PM
#2255
if the idl jumper is not being activated, the ecu will not idl down. if you are able to adjust the idl via the tps, then the tps is in the wrong setting.
its not that hard guys, start out where the idl screw and tps will let it idle down to 650. if its not doing that you should start there.
then you adjust the screw in until it cannot lower the iacv anymore to compensate.
Then once you find that spot, you reset the tps so the tps will read IDL right.
doing it other ways you will just end up chasing your tail.
the idea is just to just do it enough to get a little more idle speed but it might not work for everyone.
you can also just leave it where it idles at 650 and work on the other stuff but I like how mine feels at about 8-900rpm idle myself.
its not that hard guys, start out where the idl screw and tps will let it idle down to 650. if its not doing that you should start there.
then you adjust the screw in until it cannot lower the iacv anymore to compensate.
Then once you find that spot, you reset the tps so the tps will read IDL right.
doing it other ways you will just end up chasing your tail.
the idea is just to just do it enough to get a little more idle speed but it might not work for everyone.
you can also just leave it where it idles at 650 and work on the other stuff but I like how mine feels at about 8-900rpm idle myself.
11-17-14, 03:45 PM
#2256
if the idl jumper is not being activated, the ecu will not idl down. if you are able to adjust the idl via the tps, then the tps is in the wrong setting.
its not that hard guys, start out where the idl screw and tps will let it idle down to 650. if its not doing that you should start there.
then you adjust the screw in until it cannot lower the iacv anymore to compensate.
Then once you find that spot, you reset the tps so the tps will read IDL right.
doing it other ways you will just end up chasing your tail.
the idea is just to just do it enough to get a little more idle speed but it might not work for everyone.
you can also just leave it where it idles at 650 and work on the other stuff but I like how mine feels at about 8-900rpm idle myself.
its not that hard guys, start out where the idl screw and tps will let it idle down to 650. if its not doing that you should start there.
then you adjust the screw in until it cannot lower the iacv anymore to compensate.
Then once you find that spot, you reset the tps so the tps will read IDL right.
doing it other ways you will just end up chasing your tail.
the idea is just to just do it enough to get a little more idle speed but it might not work for everyone.
you can also just leave it where it idles at 650 and work on the other stuff but I like how mine feels at about 8-900rpm idle myself.
11-17-14, 06:18 PM
#2257
I'm going to play with it again this weekend, but the jumper does work even with the 1100 rpm idle.
Hopefully I can get it around 800 and then move on from there.
The cars going to be doing quite a bit of sitting soon so just want to get the idle and plugs and leave it until it warms up in like 4 months lol.
Hopefully I can get it around 800 and then move on from there.
The cars going to be doing quite a bit of sitting soon so just want to get the idle and plugs and leave it until it warms up in like 4 months lol.
11-19-14, 06:43 AM
#2259
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Did a JDM GE to JDM GTE ecu swap in 40 minutes retaining the distributor. The car was already running MKIII 440cc injectors. A bad, brand new, map sensor had us going for hours, but figured it out and it is running sweet.
Last edited by nasc300; 11-21-14 at 09:41 AM.
11-24-14, 01:14 PM
#2261
So yeah I think I am officially going to say that having a huge throttle body on the tt ecu mod may cause some issues in the lower rev range without a fuel controller. I have found that disconnecting the o2 sensor does correct the problem but it runs rich obviously.
The q45 throttle body lets in so much air so quick, that when the o2 sensor is in closed loop and you are going along at 14.8, any little touch of the throttle will basically send it into lean 17-18 afr before it has a chance to catch itself. What is worrying is that when it swings lean I am hearing the can of marbles noise which means it is causing some knock/detonation and the car you can feel it slow down for a second, likely its a combination of the more aggressive gte timing and going lean. It hasn't been a big deal because it happens when the motor is not so loaded, but it happens going from a stop all the way up to 3000rpm's or from going from cruise to accelerating in those ranges and is enough to be very annoying and discourage quick acceleration. if you accelerate slowly the problem does not happen.
Not sure what I want to do at this point I like the FFIM but I also like the motor. maybe go down to a smaller throttle body, or if I can get this map ecu I got to work it does have extra throttle and map enrichment. For now I think I will just pull the o2 sensor and let it run a little rich. when I do that it pulls like a freight train with no hesitation. Maybe I need to go fiddle with it some more maybe the tps or something. Debating trying a gte throttle body or maybe the ls400 one I have laying around, might be closer to what the ecu likes than the q45 setup.
I never had anything close to this problem on the stock intake manifold, never made any kind of knocking that I know of.
The q45 throttle body lets in so much air so quick, that when the o2 sensor is in closed loop and you are going along at 14.8, any little touch of the throttle will basically send it into lean 17-18 afr before it has a chance to catch itself. What is worrying is that when it swings lean I am hearing the can of marbles noise which means it is causing some knock/detonation and the car you can feel it slow down for a second, likely its a combination of the more aggressive gte timing and going lean. It hasn't been a big deal because it happens when the motor is not so loaded, but it happens going from a stop all the way up to 3000rpm's or from going from cruise to accelerating in those ranges and is enough to be very annoying and discourage quick acceleration. if you accelerate slowly the problem does not happen.
Not sure what I want to do at this point I like the FFIM but I also like the motor. maybe go down to a smaller throttle body, or if I can get this map ecu I got to work it does have extra throttle and map enrichment. For now I think I will just pull the o2 sensor and let it run a little rich. when I do that it pulls like a freight train with no hesitation. Maybe I need to go fiddle with it some more maybe the tps or something. Debating trying a gte throttle body or maybe the ls400 one I have laying around, might be closer to what the ecu likes than the q45 setup.
I never had anything close to this problem on the stock intake manifold, never made any kind of knocking that I know of.
11-24-14, 05:54 PM
#2262
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Are you running the 440 injectors? Also if one is running 550 injectors do you think it would still have the leaning out problem with bigger injectors? I'm hoping to do the ffim soon and hoping I can use the q45 throttle body
11-24-14, 06:52 PM
#2263
I am running the 440cc injectors. I am not sure if the 550's would help, the 440's have enough fuel its more like the o2 sensor can't keep up or something. Someone else let me know if it happens I guess I will experiment with it some later on when I get some time. alot of people sometimes disconnect the stock o2 and use a piggyback to get the tune close and leave it a little rich, you could do that with the 550's if you had the issue still.
11-25-14, 03:03 AM
#2264
Okay, I'm here to post the solutions to the problems that I mentioned on earlier posts during the last 2 years in this thread. Hopefully this will help anyone attempting the TT ECU MOD and with/without FFIM MOD to avoid any of the dumb problems I had that caused me so much headache and sleepless nights. 
Some of these problems turned out to be really dumb. They are listed in chronological order:
Problem #1: The engine would crank, but wouldn't run. Timing gun showed that spark plugs were getting power and ignitor was working properly. Spark plugs were wet with gasoline.
Solution: It turned out to be reversed coil pack wiring between coil 2 & 3 at the ignitor.
Problem #2: Engine was running pig rich to the point that AFR on my AEM UEGO bottomed out at 10.0AFR. A new MAP sensor, FPR, and a new set of injectors (550cc, thought one of the stock 330cc injectors were stuck open) didn't solve the problem.
Solution: It turns out I used the wrong TPS. I used the Accufab Ford Mustang TPS (runs 0-5v) that came with the pretty polished Accufab TB for my FFIM. Switching to the OEM TPS (0-3.7v?) stopped the ECU from making the engine run pig rich. DUH.
Problem #3: My idle RPM upon startup was at 1000rpm and slowly increased and hovered around 3200pm. I was running an Accufab TB. I thought this was because of the TPS and/or TB butterfly valve's stop screw. No matter how I adjusted them, I couldn't fix the problem. I even doubled up on Accufab's gaskets to seal up any vacuum leak. No change. I re-installed the runners and the FFIM twice. No change.
Solution: I tested for vacuum leak with smoke starting at the mouth of the Accufab TB. The source of the vacuum leak turned out to be at the Accufab's butterfly valve shaft seal. Reading up on Accufab revealed that it's a rather common problem with the Accufab 90mm units. Switching to an RMR TB solved the problem.
Problem #4: This took the longest to diagnose and caused me to have trouble sleeping for weeks. The CEL kept flashing the Code 21 O2 sensor code with my single-wire O2 sensor connected. This problem persisted all throughout the TT ECU MOD. I thought it may have been a popped capacitor inside the Aristo ECU, so I acquired another Aristo ECU. No success. I tried another single-wire O2 sensor. Nope.
Solution: Switching to a heated O2 sensor and getting power to its heater made the code go away. It turns out that the 89661-30560 ECU likes heated O2 sensors. Interesting.
Problem #5: With diagnostics pins jumped to check for timing, I still couldn't get the ecu and engine into diagnostics mode for timing because I couldn't hear the idle noise change and couldn't get the timing between 6-8, as the lowest timing I could get through the distributor was about 12.
Solution: Using a voltmeter, I calibrated the TPS voltage to about 0.65V. This finally allowed ECU and engine to go into proper diagnostics mode to set my timing.
Problem #6: After having the car run perfectly for a month after the TT ECU MOD was completed, the car began to not start up sometimes whether the engine was cold or warm.
Solution: All wires connected to the ignitor were connected to the ignitor's male pins by way of crimped female wire terminals. This way of connection was meant to be temporary, instead using the factory ignitory harness. Two female terminals came into contact and shorted the ignitor. Using the factory ignitor harness solved this problem completely.
My car is running flawlessly now and the engine bay looks quite sexy (to me) after the wire tuck under the FFIM runners. Enduring the trouble of chasing down the causes of these problems for almost 2 years was well worth it.
Cheers,
Stanley C.
Some of these problems turned out to be really dumb. They are listed in chronological order:Problem #1: The engine would crank, but wouldn't run. Timing gun showed that spark plugs were getting power and ignitor was working properly. Spark plugs were wet with gasoline.
Solution: It turned out to be reversed coil pack wiring between coil 2 & 3 at the ignitor.
Problem #2: Engine was running pig rich to the point that AFR on my AEM UEGO bottomed out at 10.0AFR. A new MAP sensor, FPR, and a new set of injectors (550cc, thought one of the stock 330cc injectors were stuck open) didn't solve the problem.
Solution: It turns out I used the wrong TPS. I used the Accufab Ford Mustang TPS (runs 0-5v) that came with the pretty polished Accufab TB for my FFIM. Switching to the OEM TPS (0-3.7v?) stopped the ECU from making the engine run pig rich. DUH.
Problem #3: My idle RPM upon startup was at 1000rpm and slowly increased and hovered around 3200pm. I was running an Accufab TB. I thought this was because of the TPS and/or TB butterfly valve's stop screw. No matter how I adjusted them, I couldn't fix the problem. I even doubled up on Accufab's gaskets to seal up any vacuum leak. No change. I re-installed the runners and the FFIM twice. No change.
Solution: I tested for vacuum leak with smoke starting at the mouth of the Accufab TB. The source of the vacuum leak turned out to be at the Accufab's butterfly valve shaft seal. Reading up on Accufab revealed that it's a rather common problem with the Accufab 90mm units. Switching to an RMR TB solved the problem.
Problem #4: This took the longest to diagnose and caused me to have trouble sleeping for weeks. The CEL kept flashing the Code 21 O2 sensor code with my single-wire O2 sensor connected. This problem persisted all throughout the TT ECU MOD. I thought it may have been a popped capacitor inside the Aristo ECU, so I acquired another Aristo ECU. No success. I tried another single-wire O2 sensor. Nope.
Solution: Switching to a heated O2 sensor and getting power to its heater made the code go away. It turns out that the 89661-30560 ECU likes heated O2 sensors. Interesting.
Problem #5: With diagnostics pins jumped to check for timing, I still couldn't get the ecu and engine into diagnostics mode for timing because I couldn't hear the idle noise change and couldn't get the timing between 6-8, as the lowest timing I could get through the distributor was about 12.
Solution: Using a voltmeter, I calibrated the TPS voltage to about 0.65V. This finally allowed ECU and engine to go into proper diagnostics mode to set my timing.
Problem #6: After having the car run perfectly for a month after the TT ECU MOD was completed, the car began to not start up sometimes whether the engine was cold or warm.
Solution: All wires connected to the ignitor were connected to the ignitor's male pins by way of crimped female wire terminals. This way of connection was meant to be temporary, instead using the factory ignitory harness. Two female terminals came into contact and shorted the ignitor. Using the factory ignitor harness solved this problem completely.
My car is running flawlessly now and the engine bay looks quite sexy (to me) after the wire tuck under the FFIM runners. Enduring the trouble of chasing down the causes of these problems for almost 2 years was well worth it.
Cheers,
Stanley C.
Last edited by aznexus; 11-25-14 at 09:59 AM.
11-25-14, 08:44 AM
#2265
Thanks for the detailed post I am sure that will help others in teh future.
I may even start a section for FAQ's like that where people can post common issues.
You have the FFIM installed right? are you getting any pinging in the lower rpm's as I described when you blip the throttle too fast?
if not maybe I need to go back and make some adjustments maybe the tps needs some more range or something or I need to run ethanol cause the gas up here is not so great.
I may even start a section for FAQ's like that where people can post common issues.
You have the FFIM installed right? are you getting any pinging in the lower rpm's as I described when you blip the throttle too fast?
if not maybe I need to go back and make some adjustments maybe the tps needs some more range or something or I need to run ethanol cause the gas up here is not so great.