Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

That sounds right actually. The scanner can't know the actual timing, since its normally fixed on these ecu's when the ecu see's the jumper it ouputs 10 degrees, which is what the scanner will show when jumpered. now this is not what is on the crank cause you can adjust it mechanically but the ecu does not know that, so when you have it at 7 it thinks its at 10 still. you have a 3 degree difference. so when you remove the jumper its reading 14-15 on the ecu and scanner, but the crank should show 10-11 now without the jiumper which reflects the 3-4 degree difference. this is very normal.
If you are not getting pinging, maybe your gas is better than the 91 we get up here, you can try going up to 8-9 degrees on the base timing (when the jumper is in). more timing will help stabilize the idle, but it will also increase the chance of pinging at low speed high loads.

the only thing you want to adjust with the screw, is the more turns you can get out of it while still getting the change in sound with the jumper. if you put the jumper in and there is no change in sound, you went too fer with the screw, so back it off some. its very sensitive go in 1/4 to 1/2 turns of the screw and check again. when you find the right spot try and lock it down without it moving to much and check again after locking it down. even if you get a 1/8 to 1/4 turn on that screw to let the tiniest more amount of air in it will help alot.

I still use the factory fuel ecu so can't comment on this one. if you want a higher powered alternator, look into the tundra/sequia 130 or 150 amp alternators, they are out there for certain years. they also made lower power ones on those models so double check. the part numbers are floating around out there even on supraforums.
These are supposed to fit with minor modifications to one of the mounting tabs and I think you may need a new connector.
You want the one from a 4.7L v8 with the higher output.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...rnator-upgrade
Tundra 2003-06 V8 130Amp 27060-0F040
SEQUOIA 2004-07 V8 150Amp 27060-0F050
GX470 (years?) V8 150Amp 27060-50320

they also talk about it at the end of this thread
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...130+alternator

killersqrl

Awesome, thx for the info on the alternator. On the fuel ecu, I am still using the stock fuel ecu too, but just using it to trigger the relay. I'll post over on SF and see if any of those guys hear the relay click like that.

187

Ill try playing with the screw right now, but I did up the timing to 10 just to rev it in neutral to see if it helped and it made no difference. I didn't know the ecu would just default to 10 I thought they had to be be spot on together. Originally When my timing was way low I was idling at like 8.5 i was always thinking it should be bale to go below 10.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Sqrl is may be because you are triggering off the factory ecu which is getting signals from the stock ecu. what happens is the stock ecu tells it to be in high speed or low speed, and the fuel ecu controls the pump based on that with high or low voltage. so when you put a relay on the fuel ecu its possible the change over in voltage is affecting the relay somehow.
Normally when people do this they have an aftermarket ecu and the aem's etc.. send a signal to the fuel controller to always be in high speed, so when you put a relay on it the fuel ecu isn't changing its voltage around like it would with the stock ecu, so they wouldn't get any funny stuff happening.
My advice is if your stock fuel ecu works, then just run it like it was factory without the relay. you don't need the extra fuel flow at idle. I would only bypass it if you need more fuel.
it can click when turning on or starting but clicking during driving is not good that means its going off for a split second and coming back on or something.

187, Its just one of those things you get used to, on every toyota ecu more or less when you put the jumper in thats telling the ecu to "do what it thinks is 10 degrees".
if you had a gte motor or a vvti motor with no distributor it would show 10 degrees on the crank cause there is no adjustment, you can't change it.

on cars with distributors, there is a manual setting of the base timing, so when you put the jumper in, the ecu does what it thinks is 10, and its up to you to confirm with the light and do the final adjustment which according to the manual is 10 degrees plus or minus 2 degrees. If you had a scan tool on your original ecu, it would also show 10 when it could actually be different on the crank.

The aem is setup the same way actually, you enter a number in the box, the aem does what it thinks is that number, and then you go and look at it and if its not that number you turn the distributor or click the buttons in the software to get them to match. its the same concept except we can't click buttons in the software.

the manual adjustment helps take the edge off the tt timing for n/a cars. TT's tend to run more timing in the idle and lower rpm ranges to make up for the lack of compression. you don't have to do it, but I think 8 degrees is very reasonable as its still within the factory specs which is 10 plus or minus 2 degrees on a 2jzge. The ecu is actually setup the same on a 2jzgte or a 2jzge etc.. its just the gte cam/crank sensor setup is not adjustable so they always read 10 with the jumper... if it doesn't then something is very very wrong.

187

Good to know.

Just to report back after a few pulls. It doesn't like being just backed up enough to get the audible change. I did 1/2 from there and it was too rich got a pop after shifting (first time ever) it still tried to kill itself and was too rich in boost. Moved it another 1/4 turn and it ran much better no poping still a bit rich but the idle still doesn't stay constant if im sitting still waiting to make a turn it will go from 600 to 5XX and back. I was thinking maybe another quarter turn. It doesn't die as easily in idle i can get it from 3000k rpm and down but not 4000k. Its seems like the fuel is choking it out on the way down instead of leaning out.

Do you think I need to move the tps to lower the TP % to tell the ecu there is less air than it thinks?

Also I'm only hitting 6 psi even though the WG was supposed to be 10, I have a MBC here but I didn't plumb it.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

it doesn't directly affect the air but if its in the wrong side then it will mess with the closed loop part and you get wierd fueling.

you want to move it so that the tps will read less %.
so you increase the throttle plate via the screw, which would increase the tps % if we didn't touch the tps.
Because we want the same tps % at rest, you want to move the tps in the direction that lowers the voltage to compensate.

if you are getting the pop on decel that means the tps is probably not turned down low enough % wise for it to idle, so its not cutting the fuel on deceleration. you could have also been turning it the wrong way.. I think it has to be one of those 2 things.
if its the wrong way then try the other side basically the side where the tps is the least turned. if you think you have it double check that the jumper sound thing still happens.
normally the jumper sound thing will only happen below a certain tps % which is the same % for the ecu to idle.

really what we need is some kind of adapter plate that would give the tps more adjustability.
like on the q45 throttle body with the adapter I can turn the tps to whatever position I want basically which makes the process much easier.

killersqrl

I'm not bypassing the stock fuel ecu, I'm using the stock wire that used to go to the fuel pump to trigger the relay that now has a much larger gauge wire from the battery to the pump. A couple others on Supraforums chimed in saying theirs does it too, so I'm gonna run with it. I do think that a higher amp alternator may help things so that's on my list still.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Yeah but that wire from the stock fuel ecu switches from 12V to 9V back and forth. thats probably whats making the relay click whenever it does that. if it works it works. max it may shorten the pump life still but thats not a huge deal.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

I noticed the relay "click" when I first turn the key and the fuel pump primes but I never hear clicking after that.

This is the kit I bought from racetronix. I'm using the factory fuel pump ecu to trigger the relay. If you notice in the picture the relay is loomed to be in the engine bay. I reversed it, cut the wire flipped the harness and soldered heat shrinked it and mounted the relay next to the fuel pump ecu to keep it out of the elements.

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...WH-009&eq=&Tp=

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I was reading this thread by Dramon on clubna-t
http://forum.clubna-t.com/showthread.php?t=4145

and it says that you can swap the valvebody of an n/a trans onto the valvebody of a gte trans.
So I would think it works the other way around, so for those that want to keep the stock auto for 350whp or so with a cooler, you could swap a gte valvebody onto it and then it would be controlled fully by the gte ecu.

interesting for the auto guys, just buy a spare gte trans and swap the valvebody out and wire up the couple extra solenoids.

187

Okay turned the tp% down to 9 from 12 and adjusted the screw. It wanted to idle pretty high (900rpm) there so I backed it off a half turn and it idles around 700 when you let off the the throttle now. Hit about 11.2 afr in boost which was good, but my idle jumps between 14.7 and 16 now instead of 14.4-15.6. No stalling to speak of which is great, but if you sit in one spot for too long (waiting for a turn) it tries to idle down even though it was really smooth at 700.

I'm going to change the oil and install the mbc over the weekend along with some other stuff.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

give it some time to learn the afr it may settle down but going between 14.7 and 16 at idle shouldn't hurt anything.
yeah it always wants to hit that 650 so it will idle the iacv down some to try but if you crack the throttle in the right way it won't be able to. I would think around 800-900 would be more effective but if you got the stalling to stop and the jumper still works then that sounds pretty good. you can also reset the ecu before your next first start (cold motor) and let it have a "fresh learn". that could help it learn quicker.

lexex

I read that too. I guess that would be cool at first so I won't have to pull the transmission in my garage. But I don't see much of a point in going through the effort of swapping VB and figuring out the wiring when we would have a much better transmission just sitting there. I'm going to attempt the jdm trans and ecu combo I think. I just wish there was a more from people who did this already, although I figure it shouldn't be too hard. Another reason I would like to go with the 1j auto is the drive shaft should bolt up fine if I'm reading things right, but not sure how the 2jz ecu would like a 1 jz trans unless I can get a spare 2jz aristo VB and cable and who knows if this will also mount up the same. I can just do the aristo transmission auto but will have to source a sc400 DS and mate and resize it to fit. It would be worth it but a lot of downtime to play with trans when I'll be going na-t at the same time and I'm pretty sure I will want to test drive it. Will be a fun couple weeks a whatever I decide to do.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I would do 2jz auto with the sc400 driveshaft, but that is just me. you have the ecu to get rid of the line pressure cable coming from the throttle body, and you are not sure what kind of lockup solenoid the 1jz trans has.

187

So it runs about the same, It stalled out once somehow when i was barley moving. Afr's are still a little high, I will play with it again tomorrow. I did a pull in 3rd and at the top end I saw the boost go from 6 to 4 right before I let off which was weird? Also my dp is hitting my firewall =/