2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
#2161
I'll give the a/c a shot but I am kind of thinking timing now.
When i get the audible I can see it on my phone/scanner drop to 10 and stay at 10 but with the timing light it is clearly on 7-8. And when the jumper is removed it will idle at around 14-15 (scanner) but reads 10 with the timing light. I think I have to play around with the tps and that screw to bring the timing back under 10 with the jumper.
When i get the audible I can see it on my phone/scanner drop to 10 and stay at 10 but with the timing light it is clearly on 7-8. And when the jumper is removed it will idle at around 14-15 (scanner) but reads 10 with the timing light. I think I have to play around with the tps and that screw to bring the timing back under 10 with the jumper.
If you are not getting pinging, maybe your gas is better than the 91 we get up here, you can try going up to 8-9 degrees on the base timing (when the jumper is in). more timing will help stabilize the idle, but it will also increase the chance of pinging at low speed high loads.
the only thing you want to adjust with the screw, is the more turns you can get out of it while still getting the change in sound with the jumper. if you put the jumper in and there is no change in sound, you went too fer with the screw, so back it off some. its very sensitive go in 1/4 to 1/2 turns of the screw and check again. when you find the right spot try and lock it down without it moving to much and check again after locking it down. even if you get a 1/8 to 1/4 turn on that screw to let the tiniest more amount of air in it will help alot.
For those of you that did the 12V fuel pump relay mod, does your relay click a whole bunch when you come off of throttle completely to idle? Sometimes it does it coming off of idle and giving it a little gas, and it usually does it when starting the car. It clicks maybe 5-6 times in a row. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't something funky with the relay that I need to address. I also think I need a higher powered alternator, might lights dim considerably now when I idle.
These are supposed to fit with minor modifications to one of the mounting tabs and I think you may need a new connector.
You want the one from a 4.7L v8 with the higher output.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...rnator-upgrade
Tundra 2003-06 V8 130Amp 27060-0F040
SEQUOIA 2004-07 V8 150Amp 27060-0F050
GX470 (years?) V8 150Amp 27060-50320
they also talk about it at the end of this thread
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...130+alternator
Last edited by Ali SC3; 10-15-14 at 10:43 AM.
#2162
Awesome, thx for the info on the alternator. On the fuel ecu, I am still using the stock fuel ecu too, but just using it to trigger the relay. I'll post over on SF and see if any of those guys hear the relay click like that.
#2163
Ill try playing with the screw right now, but I did up the timing to 10 just to rev it in neutral to see if it helped and it made no difference. I didn't know the ecu would just default to 10 I thought they had to be be spot on together. Originally When my timing was way low I was idling at like 8.5 i was always thinking it should be bale to go below 10.
#2164
Sqrl is may be because you are triggering off the factory ecu which is getting signals from the stock ecu. what happens is the stock ecu tells it to be in high speed or low speed, and the fuel ecu controls the pump based on that with high or low voltage. so when you put a relay on the fuel ecu its possible the change over in voltage is affecting the relay somehow.
Normally when people do this they have an aftermarket ecu and the aem's etc.. send a signal to the fuel controller to always be in high speed, so when you put a relay on it the fuel ecu isn't changing its voltage around like it would with the stock ecu, so they wouldn't get any funny stuff happening.
My advice is if your stock fuel ecu works, then just run it like it was factory without the relay. you don't need the extra fuel flow at idle. I would only bypass it if you need more fuel.
it can click when turning on or starting but clicking during driving is not good that means its going off for a split second and coming back on or something.
187, Its just one of those things you get used to, on every toyota ecu more or less when you put the jumper in thats telling the ecu to "do what it thinks is 10 degrees".
if you had a gte motor or a vvti motor with no distributor it would show 10 degrees on the crank cause there is no adjustment, you can't change it.
on cars with distributors, there is a manual setting of the base timing, so when you put the jumper in, the ecu does what it thinks is 10, and its up to you to confirm with the light and do the final adjustment which according to the manual is 10 degrees plus or minus 2 degrees. If you had a scan tool on your original ecu, it would also show 10 when it could actually be different on the crank.
The aem is setup the same way actually, you enter a number in the box, the aem does what it thinks is that number, and then you go and look at it and if its not that number you turn the distributor or click the buttons in the software to get them to match. its the same concept except we can't click buttons in the software.
the manual adjustment helps take the edge off the tt timing for n/a cars. TT's tend to run more timing in the idle and lower rpm ranges to make up for the lack of compression. you don't have to do it, but I think 8 degrees is very reasonable as its still within the factory specs which is 10 plus or minus 2 degrees on a 2jzge. The ecu is actually setup the same on a 2jzgte or a 2jzge etc.. its just the gte cam/crank sensor setup is not adjustable so they always read 10 with the jumper... if it doesn't then something is very very wrong.
Normally when people do this they have an aftermarket ecu and the aem's etc.. send a signal to the fuel controller to always be in high speed, so when you put a relay on it the fuel ecu isn't changing its voltage around like it would with the stock ecu, so they wouldn't get any funny stuff happening.
My advice is if your stock fuel ecu works, then just run it like it was factory without the relay. you don't need the extra fuel flow at idle. I would only bypass it if you need more fuel.
it can click when turning on or starting but clicking during driving is not good that means its going off for a split second and coming back on or something.
187, Its just one of those things you get used to, on every toyota ecu more or less when you put the jumper in thats telling the ecu to "do what it thinks is 10 degrees".
if you had a gte motor or a vvti motor with no distributor it would show 10 degrees on the crank cause there is no adjustment, you can't change it.
on cars with distributors, there is a manual setting of the base timing, so when you put the jumper in, the ecu does what it thinks is 10, and its up to you to confirm with the light and do the final adjustment which according to the manual is 10 degrees plus or minus 2 degrees. If you had a scan tool on your original ecu, it would also show 10 when it could actually be different on the crank.
The aem is setup the same way actually, you enter a number in the box, the aem does what it thinks is that number, and then you go and look at it and if its not that number you turn the distributor or click the buttons in the software to get them to match. its the same concept except we can't click buttons in the software.
the manual adjustment helps take the edge off the tt timing for n/a cars. TT's tend to run more timing in the idle and lower rpm ranges to make up for the lack of compression. you don't have to do it, but I think 8 degrees is very reasonable as its still within the factory specs which is 10 plus or minus 2 degrees on a 2jzge. The ecu is actually setup the same on a 2jzgte or a 2jzge etc.. its just the gte cam/crank sensor setup is not adjustable so they always read 10 with the jumper... if it doesn't then something is very very wrong.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 10-15-14 at 02:19 PM.
#2165
Good to know.
Just to report back after a few pulls. It doesn't like being just backed up enough to get the audible change. I did 1/2 from there and it was too rich got a pop after shifting (first time ever) it still tried to kill itself and was too rich in boost. Moved it another 1/4 turn and it ran much better no poping still a bit rich but the idle still doesn't stay constant if im sitting still waiting to make a turn it will go from 600 to 5XX and back. I was thinking maybe another quarter turn. It doesn't die as easily in idle i can get it from 3000k rpm and down but not 4000k. Its seems like the fuel is choking it out on the way down instead of leaning out.
Do you think I need to move the tps to lower the TP % to tell the ecu there is less air than it thinks?
Also I'm only hitting 6 psi even though the WG was supposed to be 10, I have a MBC here but I didn't plumb it.
Just to report back after a few pulls. It doesn't like being just backed up enough to get the audible change. I did 1/2 from there and it was too rich got a pop after shifting (first time ever) it still tried to kill itself and was too rich in boost. Moved it another 1/4 turn and it ran much better no poping still a bit rich but the idle still doesn't stay constant if im sitting still waiting to make a turn it will go from 600 to 5XX and back. I was thinking maybe another quarter turn. It doesn't die as easily in idle i can get it from 3000k rpm and down but not 4000k. Its seems like the fuel is choking it out on the way down instead of leaning out.
Do you think I need to move the tps to lower the TP % to tell the ecu there is less air than it thinks?
Also I'm only hitting 6 psi even though the WG was supposed to be 10, I have a MBC here but I didn't plumb it.
#2166
it doesn't directly affect the air but if its in the wrong side then it will mess with the closed loop part and you get wierd fueling.
you want to move it so that the tps will read less %.
so you increase the throttle plate via the screw, which would increase the tps % if we didn't touch the tps.
Because we want the same tps % at rest, you want to move the tps in the direction that lowers the voltage to compensate.
if you are getting the pop on decel that means the tps is probably not turned down low enough % wise for it to idle, so its not cutting the fuel on deceleration. you could have also been turning it the wrong way.. I think it has to be one of those 2 things.
if its the wrong way then try the other side basically the side where the tps is the least turned. if you think you have it double check that the jumper sound thing still happens.
normally the jumper sound thing will only happen below a certain tps % which is the same % for the ecu to idle.
really what we need is some kind of adapter plate that would give the tps more adjustability.
like on the q45 throttle body with the adapter I can turn the tps to whatever position I want basically which makes the process much easier.
you want to move it so that the tps will read less %.
so you increase the throttle plate via the screw, which would increase the tps % if we didn't touch the tps.
Because we want the same tps % at rest, you want to move the tps in the direction that lowers the voltage to compensate.
if you are getting the pop on decel that means the tps is probably not turned down low enough % wise for it to idle, so its not cutting the fuel on deceleration. you could have also been turning it the wrong way.. I think it has to be one of those 2 things.
if its the wrong way then try the other side basically the side where the tps is the least turned. if you think you have it double check that the jumper sound thing still happens.
normally the jumper sound thing will only happen below a certain tps % which is the same % for the ecu to idle.
really what we need is some kind of adapter plate that would give the tps more adjustability.
like on the q45 throttle body with the adapter I can turn the tps to whatever position I want basically which makes the process much easier.
#2167
I'm not bypassing the stock fuel ecu, I'm using the stock wire that used to go to the fuel pump to trigger the relay that now has a much larger gauge wire from the battery to the pump. A couple others on Supraforums chimed in saying theirs does it too, so I'm gonna run with it. I do think that a higher amp alternator may help things so that's on my list still.
#2169
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
I noticed the relay "click" when I first turn the key and the fuel pump primes but I never hear clicking after that.
This is the kit I bought from racetronix. I'm using the factory fuel pump ecu to trigger the relay. If you notice in the picture the relay is loomed to be in the engine bay. I reversed it, cut the wire flipped the harness and soldered heat shrinked it and mounted the relay next to the fuel pump ecu to keep it out of the elements.
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...WH-009&eq=&Tp=
This is the kit I bought from racetronix. I'm using the factory fuel pump ecu to trigger the relay. If you notice in the picture the relay is loomed to be in the engine bay. I reversed it, cut the wire flipped the harness and soldered heat shrinked it and mounted the relay next to the fuel pump ecu to keep it out of the elements.
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...WH-009&eq=&Tp=
#2170
I was reading this thread by Dramon on clubna-t
http://forum.clubna-t.com/showthread.php?t=4145
and it says that you can swap the valvebody of an n/a trans onto the valvebody of a gte trans.
So I would think it works the other way around, so for those that want to keep the stock auto for 350whp or so with a cooler, you could swap a gte valvebody onto it and then it would be controlled fully by the gte ecu.
interesting for the auto guys, just buy a spare gte trans and swap the valvebody out and wire up the couple extra solenoids.
http://forum.clubna-t.com/showthread.php?t=4145
and it says that you can swap the valvebody of an n/a trans onto the valvebody of a gte trans.
So I would think it works the other way around, so for those that want to keep the stock auto for 350whp or so with a cooler, you could swap a gte valvebody onto it and then it would be controlled fully by the gte ecu.
interesting for the auto guys, just buy a spare gte trans and swap the valvebody out and wire up the couple extra solenoids.
#2171
Okay turned the tp% down to 9 from 12 and adjusted the screw. It wanted to idle pretty high (900rpm) there so I backed it off a half turn and it idles around 700 when you let off the the throttle now. Hit about 11.2 afr in boost which was good, but my idle jumps between 14.7 and 16 now instead of 14.4-15.6. No stalling to speak of which is great, but if you sit in one spot for too long (waiting for a turn) it tries to idle down even though it was really smooth at 700.
I'm going to change the oil and install the mbc over the weekend along with some other stuff.
I'm going to change the oil and install the mbc over the weekend along with some other stuff.
#2172
give it some time to learn the afr it may settle down but going between 14.7 and 16 at idle shouldn't hurt anything.
yeah it always wants to hit that 650 so it will idle the iacv down some to try but if you crack the throttle in the right way it won't be able to. I would think around 800-900 would be more effective but if you got the stalling to stop and the jumper still works then that sounds pretty good. you can also reset the ecu before your next first start (cold motor) and let it have a "fresh learn". that could help it learn quicker.
yeah it always wants to hit that 650 so it will idle the iacv down some to try but if you crack the throttle in the right way it won't be able to. I would think around 800-900 would be more effective but if you got the stalling to stop and the jumper still works then that sounds pretty good. you can also reset the ecu before your next first start (cold motor) and let it have a "fresh learn". that could help it learn quicker.
#2173
Driver School Candidate
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I was reading this thread by Dramon on clubna-t
http://forum.clubna-t.com/showthread.php?t=4145
and it says that you can swap the valvebody of an n/a trans onto the valvebody of a gte trans.
So I would think it works the other way around, so for those that want to keep the stock auto for 350whp or so with a cooler, you could swap a gte valvebody onto it and then it would be controlled fully by the gte ecu.
interesting for the auto guys, just buy a spare gte trans and swap the valvebody out and wire up the couple extra solenoids.
http://forum.clubna-t.com/showthread.php?t=4145
and it says that you can swap the valvebody of an n/a trans onto the valvebody of a gte trans.
So I would think it works the other way around, so for those that want to keep the stock auto for 350whp or so with a cooler, you could swap a gte valvebody onto it and then it would be controlled fully by the gte ecu.
interesting for the auto guys, just buy a spare gte trans and swap the valvebody out and wire up the couple extra solenoids.
#2175
So it runs about the same, It stalled out once somehow when i was barley moving. Afr's are still a little high, I will play with it again tomorrow. I did a pull in 3rd and at the top end I saw the boost go from 6 to 4 right before I let off which was weird? Also my dp is hitting my firewall =/