2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
10-10-14, 12:51 PM
#2146
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Hey guys, kinda new to to the turbo world, trying to catch up and my head hurts from a few weeks trying to figure out the obd2 dilemma. Great thread by the way but 150 pages its a little tough to navigate now.
I just want some help clarifying some things. I have a 97 sc300 that im planing on going na-t with the xs kit. Im only looking at 8lbs boost until some later date when i can go in to do the head gasket. I live in Fl so no need for OBD2. At first i figure to stay in the 330hp range then do the few things to go up safely from there but never more than 450hp since i dont plan on going m/t. I know I have to change to the map setup.
(1) I want to go with the aristo tt ecu, my buddy has one he will give me. He has the jdm auto too that I can get off him, and with turbo it would be good to get. Just want to make sure that it should mount up and can get of the cable trans and just run a wire or two to the ecu since its for that trans without too much headache?
(2) I cant tell if upgrading injectors is a must initially, but with the 97 would i be able to move up to 440 without first swapping my lower runners? Basically are there drop in 440's for my car? And is it necessary for low boost or can I wait until I move up later next year.
(3) is the plug for the ecu the same for the obd1 and 2 the same to where I can just move the pins around or do I need to hack one from an old sc or gs from the junk yard?
Im sure I will have plenty more research, this is just my planning stage trying to get everything lined up before I start collecting parts and wanted to make sure im on the right track. I know I have read all this but until I worked out my plan of attack on OBD2 it just didnt want to stick in memory and no idea where I had originally found this info
I just want some help clarifying some things. I have a 97 sc300 that im planing on going na-t with the xs kit. Im only looking at 8lbs boost until some later date when i can go in to do the head gasket. I live in Fl so no need for OBD2. At first i figure to stay in the 330hp range then do the few things to go up safely from there but never more than 450hp since i dont plan on going m/t. I know I have to change to the map setup.
(1) I want to go with the aristo tt ecu, my buddy has one he will give me. He has the jdm auto too that I can get off him, and with turbo it would be good to get. Just want to make sure that it should mount up and can get of the cable trans and just run a wire or two to the ecu since its for that trans without too much headache?
(2) I cant tell if upgrading injectors is a must initially, but with the 97 would i be able to move up to 440 without first swapping my lower runners? Basically are there drop in 440's for my car? And is it necessary for low boost or can I wait until I move up later next year.
(3) is the plug for the ecu the same for the obd1 and 2 the same to where I can just move the pins around or do I need to hack one from an old sc or gs from the junk yard?
Im sure I will have plenty more research, this is just my planning stage trying to get everything lined up before I start collecting parts and wanted to make sure im on the right track. I know I have read all this but until I worked out my plan of attack on OBD2 it just didnt want to stick in memory and no idea where I had originally found this info
10-10-14, 02:07 PM
#2147
Welcome Lexex, yes the thread has grown quite a bit, if you can't find it on page 1 I would just post up the question at the end.
It sounds like you want to use a JDM ecu cause you don't have to do emissions. you can do this on an obd2 car but the wiring for the map sensor is slightly different since your maf is different than obd1 maf's.
on page 1 you see the wiring for 92-95 obd1 cars. on these cars the maf is 5V and uses a special sensor ground. Turns out this is the same thing toyota map sensors use, so we just reuse the maf wires cause everything needed for the map sensor is literally right there. we reuse the maf signal wire also and move it to the map spot on the ecu.
Since you are 96+ and trying to use the map sensor jdm ecu (which is better if you don't need to pass emissions), you can only reuse some of the maf sensor wires. This is because in 96 the maf became a 12V maf with a regular ground. this wont work with the map sensors, so instead you will be borrowing/splicing power and ground from the TPS or you can splice into these at the ecu (same thing different place). TPS is 5V power and special ground exactly like the map sensor. thats the only difference power and ground wires you get from tps on a 96+ harness.
(1) The tt auto will mount up to your motor. the wiring part will be the tricker part I have not done it before, but there are only a handfull of connectors it can be done since both the pinouts should be available online. Really someone should do a write-up on specifically this but I don't have any auto SC's anymore.
(2) Yes you have to go at least 440cc initially with these ecu's or it will not want to start o r run well at all. A safc is not the answer either in this case its more useful for running larger injectors than you are supossed to not the other way around. people are saying that the old type of injectors obd1 will fit on the newer rail and seal well enough. for low boost and even good amounts of boost I have now read it should be fine. we thought it may be an issue since both obd2 members were having problems, but it turned out to be other things in the end. I would use new o-rings though at least.
(3) yes the plug is the same for obd1 and obd2 ecu's. its the same for all 2jzge and 2jzgte non vvti.
you are essentially unplugging the 2jzge ecu and plugging the 2jzgte ecu in.
you don't even need to move many pins around the stuff that is the same shares the same pins essentially, but the extra stuff that the gte has needs to be wired up, and thats shown on page 1.
its much easier to go with the JDM ecu as its map sensor based and less picky. I would only put up with obd2 stuff for an emission car.
It sounds like you want to use a JDM ecu cause you don't have to do emissions. you can do this on an obd2 car but the wiring for the map sensor is slightly different since your maf is different than obd1 maf's.
on page 1 you see the wiring for 92-95 obd1 cars. on these cars the maf is 5V and uses a special sensor ground. Turns out this is the same thing toyota map sensors use, so we just reuse the maf wires cause everything needed for the map sensor is literally right there. we reuse the maf signal wire also and move it to the map spot on the ecu.
Since you are 96+ and trying to use the map sensor jdm ecu (which is better if you don't need to pass emissions), you can only reuse some of the maf sensor wires. This is because in 96 the maf became a 12V maf with a regular ground. this wont work with the map sensors, so instead you will be borrowing/splicing power and ground from the TPS or you can splice into these at the ecu (same thing different place). TPS is 5V power and special ground exactly like the map sensor. thats the only difference power and ground wires you get from tps on a 96+ harness.
(1) The tt auto will mount up to your motor. the wiring part will be the tricker part I have not done it before, but there are only a handfull of connectors it can be done since both the pinouts should be available online. Really someone should do a write-up on specifically this but I don't have any auto SC's anymore.
(2) Yes you have to go at least 440cc initially with these ecu's or it will not want to start o r run well at all. A safc is not the answer either in this case its more useful for running larger injectors than you are supossed to not the other way around. people are saying that the old type of injectors obd1 will fit on the newer rail and seal well enough. for low boost and even good amounts of boost I have now read it should be fine. we thought it may be an issue since both obd2 members were having problems, but it turned out to be other things in the end. I would use new o-rings though at least.
(3) yes the plug is the same for obd1 and obd2 ecu's. its the same for all 2jzge and 2jzgte non vvti.
you are essentially unplugging the 2jzge ecu and plugging the 2jzgte ecu in.
you don't even need to move many pins around the stuff that is the same shares the same pins essentially, but the extra stuff that the gte has needs to be wired up, and thats shown on page 1.
its much easier to go with the JDM ecu as its map sensor based and less picky. I would only put up with obd2 stuff for an emission car.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 10-10-14 at 02:10 PM.
10-10-14, 02:51 PM
#2148
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Welcome Lexex, yes the thread has grown quite a bit, if you can't find it on page 1 I would just post up the question at the end.
It sounds like you want to use a JDM ecu cause you don't have to do emissions. you can do this on an obd2 car but the wiring for the map sensor is slightly different since your maf is different than obd1 maf's.
on page 1 you see the wiring for 92-95 obd1 cars. on these cars the maf is 5V and uses a special sensor ground. Turns out this is the same thing toyota map sensors use, so we just reuse the maf wires cause everything needed for the map sensor is literally right there. we reuse the maf signal wire also and move it to the map spot on the ecu.
Since you are 96+ and trying to use the map sensor jdm ecu (which is better if you don't need to pass emissions), you can only reuse some of the maf sensor wires. This is because in 96 the maf became a 12V maf with a regular ground. this wont work with the map sensors, so instead you will be borrowing/splicing power and ground from the TPS or you can splice into these at the ecu (same thing different place). TPS is 5V power and special ground exactly like the map sensor. thats the only difference power and ground wires you get from tps on a 96+ harness.
(1) The tt auto will mount up to your motor. the wiring part will be the tricker part I have not done it before, but there are only a handfull of connectors it can be done since both the pinouts should be available online. Really someone should do a write-up on specifically this but I don't have any auto SC's anymore.
(2) Yes you have to go at least 440cc initially with these ecu's or it will not want to start o r run well at all. A safc is not the answer either in this case its more useful for running larger injectors than you are supossed to not the other way around. people are saying that the old type of injectors obd1 will fit on the newer rail and seal well enough. for low boost and even good amounts of boost I have now read it should be fine. we thought it may be an issue since both obd2 members were having problems, but it turned out to be other things in the end. I would use new o-rings though at least.
(3) yes the plug is the same for obd1 and obd2 ecu's. its the same for all 2jzge and 2jzgte non vvti.
you are essentially unplugging the 2jzge ecu and plugging the 2jzgte ecu in.
you don't even need to move many pins around the stuff that is the same shares the same pins essentially, but the extra stuff that the gte has needs to be wired up, and thats shown on page 1.
its much easier to go with the JDM ecu as its map sensor based and less picky. I would only put up with obd2 stuff for an emission car.
It sounds like you want to use a JDM ecu cause you don't have to do emissions. you can do this on an obd2 car but the wiring for the map sensor is slightly different since your maf is different than obd1 maf's.
on page 1 you see the wiring for 92-95 obd1 cars. on these cars the maf is 5V and uses a special sensor ground. Turns out this is the same thing toyota map sensors use, so we just reuse the maf wires cause everything needed for the map sensor is literally right there. we reuse the maf signal wire also and move it to the map spot on the ecu.
Since you are 96+ and trying to use the map sensor jdm ecu (which is better if you don't need to pass emissions), you can only reuse some of the maf sensor wires. This is because in 96 the maf became a 12V maf with a regular ground. this wont work with the map sensors, so instead you will be borrowing/splicing power and ground from the TPS or you can splice into these at the ecu (same thing different place). TPS is 5V power and special ground exactly like the map sensor. thats the only difference power and ground wires you get from tps on a 96+ harness.
(1) The tt auto will mount up to your motor. the wiring part will be the tricker part I have not done it before, but there are only a handfull of connectors it can be done since both the pinouts should be available online. Really someone should do a write-up on specifically this but I don't have any auto SC's anymore.
(2) Yes you have to go at least 440cc initially with these ecu's or it will not want to start o r run well at all. A safc is not the answer either in this case its more useful for running larger injectors than you are supossed to not the other way around. people are saying that the old type of injectors obd1 will fit on the newer rail and seal well enough. for low boost and even good amounts of boost I have now read it should be fine. we thought it may be an issue since both obd2 members were having problems, but it turned out to be other things in the end. I would use new o-rings though at least.
(3) yes the plug is the same for obd1 and obd2 ecu's. its the same for all 2jzge and 2jzgte non vvti.
you are essentially unplugging the 2jzge ecu and plugging the 2jzgte ecu in.
you don't even need to move many pins around the stuff that is the same shares the same pins essentially, but the extra stuff that the gte has needs to be wired up, and thats shown on page 1.
its much easier to go with the JDM ecu as its map sensor based and less picky. I would only put up with obd2 stuff for an emission car.
10-10-14, 04:16 PM
#2149
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finally almost ready to drive mine, still need to do timing then its done. I have to get a timing light though. I had the turbo disconnected earlier, so it was basically NA with NA timing, and i thought hey why not put it in reverse and see what happens...so i did and it backed up, and then i put it in drive, let my foot off the brake and it did a lurchy chuggy forward so i stopped and put it back in park. Its the stock GE auto so im not sure how the trans will like this aristo ecu. i have a w58 im rebuilding to swap in (it was $100), maybe someday ill go r154. any ideas why the chugging forward? maybe needs more idle? i tapped the gas and it chugged harder and thats when i called it a day.
10-10-14, 06:58 PM
#2150
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Wonder if there be the same issues in going with the 1JZ auto? It's a cable system like stock but beefy. But wonder about the torque converter lock issue like mentioned in page one. Or wonder if someone found a solution to this. I was originally just going keep stock auto then to swap valve bodies on the aristo auto later but not if it acts all stupid. Keep me posted eblick with how it turns out, really don't want to Mt for a while, not that it wouldn't be awesome.
10-11-14, 11:51 AM
#2151
So I tried making changes to the tps with no success so far. I can make it slightly better sometimes but the issue is that its going really rich on the decel showing 10 on the afr.
So my reasoning was to idle up the motor slightly and try to bring the tps down to tell it its getting less air. This works a little but it still gets to much fuel and stalls out. I tried every combination of everything, the idle screw feels good but i just can't get the tps low enough? even with the tp% at say 8% it still stays rich on the rev down.
If the screw isn't in enough you can feel it be slow to respond and bog, and when its in to much its just a high idle with the same rich condition. I played with it for well over an hour, but no combination seems to work.
So my reasoning was to idle up the motor slightly and try to bring the tps down to tell it its getting less air. This works a little but it still gets to much fuel and stalls out. I tried every combination of everything, the idle screw feels good but i just can't get the tps low enough? even with the tp% at say 8% it still stays rich on the rev down.
If the screw isn't in enough you can feel it be slow to respond and bog, and when its in to much its just a high idle with the same rich condition. I played with it for well over an hour, but no combination seems to work.
10-12-14, 01:24 PM
#2152
So i'm basically taking to just not driving the car because its to risky where I am since I can't come to a stop properly.
Some things to mention, tried to set the timing but when I use the jumper the ecu port tells me its at 10 but on the crank its clearly at 7-8. Its still searching for idle with the afr's moving from 14.3-15.7 back and forth still. If you rev under 2k and let it fall it will catch itself, anything higher will cause a stall. I fixed a few leaks which got my boost up to around 8 psi from 5psi. I'm pretty much out of things to try at this point since I can't find anyone is the is or supra community with a solution.
Some things to mention, tried to set the timing but when I use the jumper the ecu port tells me its at 10 but on the crank its clearly at 7-8. Its still searching for idle with the afr's moving from 14.3-15.7 back and forth still. If you rev under 2k and let it fall it will catch itself, anything higher will cause a stall. I fixed a few leaks which got my boost up to around 8 psi from 5psi. I'm pretty much out of things to try at this point since I can't find anyone is the is or supra community with a solution.
10-13-14, 06:24 AM
#2154
So i'm basically taking to just not driving the car because its to risky where I am since I can't come to a stop properly.
Some things to mention, tried to set the timing but when I use the jumper the ecu port tells me its at 10 but on the crank its clearly at 7-8. Its still searching for idle with the afr's moving from 14.3-15.7 back and forth still. If you rev under 2k and let it fall it will catch itself, anything higher will cause a stall. I fixed a few leaks which got my boost up to around 8 psi from 5psi. I'm pretty much out of things to try at this point since I can't find anyone is the is or supra community with a solution.
Some things to mention, tried to set the timing but when I use the jumper the ecu port tells me its at 10 but on the crank its clearly at 7-8. Its still searching for idle with the afr's moving from 14.3-15.7 back and forth still. If you rev under 2k and let it fall it will catch itself, anything higher will cause a stall. I fixed a few leaks which got my boost up to around 8 psi from 5psi. I'm pretty much out of things to try at this point since I can't find anyone is the is or supra community with a solution.
When you jump the diagnostic port do you hear an audible change in rpm?
With it jumped is the timing on the crank solid? or is it fluctuating?
A/F should fluctuate at idle within that range, that's not abnormal.
Is your idle fluctuating?
Are you running the JDM setup or USDM setup with maf?
With the JDM setup you should not be stalling at all ever since it is map sensor based. Mine is rock solid I could do a 3rd gear sprint full boost and pull the gear to neutral and let it fall and it catches it like normal.
10-13-14, 03:25 PM
#2155
Yeah I'm pretty much at that point where I need a thread. I'll just keep playing with it in my free time but I'm done spending days on it.
I got the audible change, timing was solid at 7-8, idle kind of goes up and down 600-650 downa nd up down and up never even and yes i am running usdm with MAF ect. The idle catches itself when cold but never warm.
I got the audible change, timing was solid at 7-8, idle kind of goes up and down 600-650 downa nd up down and up never even and yes i am running usdm with MAF ect. The idle catches itself when cold but never warm.
10-14-14, 09:08 AM
#2157
10-14-14, 11:34 AM
#2158
try turning the a/c on it should pick up the rpm's a bit maybe enough to not stall
not sure why the maf cars are wanting to stall, it doesn't happen on the map cars much, i mean I get a dip to maybe 400rpm's sometimes but it doesn't ever stall.
you sure there wasn't like a half turn on the screw where you can get some air in and still have the tps in the right spot? that would help if you can find it. The tt ecu tends to idle low without the a/c on around 600-650 so when there is any kind of dip its noticeable. mine will dip with the a/c off sometimes but it never stalls out.
If only the idle air control valve was adjustable that would be nice, but it doesn't seem to be. I think on old cars they used to drill a small hole in the throttle body somewhere to let some air past that would help stabilize the idle when doing throttle body upgrades or whatever custom stuff. maybe if the problem is not just a one off and everyone has it we can come up with something like that. you would want a tiny hole and then go larger as needed. this would bump up idle speed without changing the tps, but remember you can't bump it up too far like over 1k you will start to get out of the idle range.
lexex I am not sure on the 1jz trans, its the oddest trans there is cause it has the cable for line pressure but alot of the gte features. I am not sure if it has the gte type lockup solenoid or the GE type. if its the GE type it will not work with the 2jzgte ecu. if its the same as a 2jzgte, then you could use it. I would just get a 2jzgte trans to be safe and then all that will be left is figuring out the wiring of those 2 solenoids.
not sure why the maf cars are wanting to stall, it doesn't happen on the map cars much, i mean I get a dip to maybe 400rpm's sometimes but it doesn't ever stall.
you sure there wasn't like a half turn on the screw where you can get some air in and still have the tps in the right spot? that would help if you can find it. The tt ecu tends to idle low without the a/c on around 600-650 so when there is any kind of dip its noticeable. mine will dip with the a/c off sometimes but it never stalls out.
If only the idle air control valve was adjustable that would be nice, but it doesn't seem to be. I think on old cars they used to drill a small hole in the throttle body somewhere to let some air past that would help stabilize the idle when doing throttle body upgrades or whatever custom stuff. maybe if the problem is not just a one off and everyone has it we can come up with something like that. you would want a tiny hole and then go larger as needed. this would bump up idle speed without changing the tps, but remember you can't bump it up too far like over 1k you will start to get out of the idle range.
lexex I am not sure on the 1jz trans, its the oddest trans there is cause it has the cable for line pressure but alot of the gte features. I am not sure if it has the gte type lockup solenoid or the GE type. if its the GE type it will not work with the 2jzgte ecu. if its the same as a 2jzgte, then you could use it. I would just get a 2jzgte trans to be safe and then all that will be left is figuring out the wiring of those 2 solenoids.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 10-14-14 at 11:38 AM.
10-14-14, 04:32 PM
#2159
I'll give the a/c a shot but I am kind of thinking timing now.
When i get the audible I can see it on my phone/scanner drop to 10 and stay at 10 but with the timing light it is clearly on 7-8. And when the jumper is removed it will idle at around 14-15 (scanner) but reads 10 with the timing light. I think I have to play around with the tps and that screw to bring the timing back under 10 with the jumper.
When i get the audible I can see it on my phone/scanner drop to 10 and stay at 10 but with the timing light it is clearly on 7-8. And when the jumper is removed it will idle at around 14-15 (scanner) but reads 10 with the timing light. I think I have to play around with the tps and that screw to bring the timing back under 10 with the jumper.
10-15-14, 05:14 AM
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For those of you that did the 12V fuel pump relay mod, does your relay click a whole bunch when you come off of throttle completely to idle? Sometimes it does it coming off of idle and giving it a little gas, and it usually does it when starting the car. It clicks maybe 5-6 times in a row. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't something funky with the relay that I need to address. I also think I need a higher powered alternator, might lights dim considerably now when I idle.