2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
10-03-14, 04:20 PM
#2131
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Good news! The new map sensor came into today, even though I ordered the wrong plug from Toyota... but got it wired it via jumpers and the car starts up great and purrs like a kitten! Idles like a boss on the 550's! I haven't taken her for a drive yet, I'll wait to get the right plug installed and still need an intake hard pipe that fits in there. I checked the timing and it's about 12deg but keep in mind I'm still NA. Vacuum is ~20 at idle.
10-04-14, 02:46 PM
#2135
After putting some miles on the car the idle did not resolve itself so I will look into recirculating tomorrow.
On a worse note, my egr and wategate vsv codes came back now from driving? I had all of them out when i did the resistor install and I guess it figured it out? Also have pending missfire in all cylinders and a code pending for the cat not being there. I think the only one i can resolve is the cat one right now.
It runs fairly well otherwise, I may bump up the idle a bit it feels like it is idling a little too low like 650-620.
On a worse note, my egr and wategate vsv codes came back now from driving? I had all of them out when i did the resistor install and I guess it figured it out? Also have pending missfire in all cylinders and a code pending for the cat not being there. I think the only one i can resolve is the cat one right now.
It runs fairly well otherwise, I may bump up the idle a bit it feels like it is idling a little too low like 650-620.
10-05-14, 12:52 AM
#2136
10-05-14, 10:56 AM
#2137
Here is a picture of what the car is currently doing even with recirculation. As you can see the rpm just drops fast and nearly kills the car and the higher you take it the harder it drops which kills the car when u boost and let off.
Bumping up the idle to ~800 helped a little bit, the only thing I'm thinking now is that it has to do with the timing being retarded. Not really sure why its not figuring it out at this point.
10-06-14, 05:18 AM
#2138
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Last edited by killersqrl; 10-06-14 at 05:21 AM.
10-08-14, 10:44 AM
#2139
After putting some miles on the car the idle did not resolve itself so I will look into recirculating tomorrow.
On a worse note, my egr and wategate vsv codes came back now from driving? I had all of them out when i did the resistor install and I guess it figured it out? Also have pending missfire in all cylinders and a code pending for the cat not being there. I think the only one i can resolve is the cat one right now.
It runs fairly well otherwise, I may bump up the idle a bit it feels like it is idling a little too low like 650-620.
On a worse note, my egr and wategate vsv codes came back now from driving? I had all of them out when i did the resistor install and I guess it figured it out? Also have pending missfire in all cylinders and a code pending for the cat not being there. I think the only one i can resolve is the cat one right now.
It runs fairly well otherwise, I may bump up the idle a bit it feels like it is idling a little too low like 650-620.
you may just have to raise your idle up some to counteract the difference in size between the throttle bodies or whatever issue its having. looks like it recovers but just too slowly and not learning for some reason, so try the full reset sometimes that will help it.
if you do bump up the idle some don't forget to turn the tps back to compensate, cause when you open the throttle body you also open the tps, so whatever small amount you open the throttle body turn the tps back the same amount so that its almost fully open. do the jumper test and listen to confirm you are still in the right area after the adjustment. sometimes the exact place you lock down the tps can affect the idle quality so may want to mark and try a few spots.
Here is a picture of what the car is currently doing even with recirculation. As you can see the rpm just drops fast and nearly kills the car and the higher you take it the harder it drops which kills the car when u boost and let off.
Bumping up the idle to ~800 helped a little bit, the only thing I'm thinking now is that it has to do with the timing being retarded. Not really sure why its not figuring it out at this point.
It certainly does! Got her all cleaned up and finally took her for a spirited drive, she pulls harder than ever before. Sounds great too. The only downside I have seen so far is with the aristo ecu she stops pulling at about 5200 rpms, but I had already read that is normal for the auto ecu in a 5sp. If I could find a way around that the setup would be absolutely perfect, I'm very impressed. Now I just need to finish my '77 Celica engine so I can get her sold to fund my turbo setup.
IF it doesn't you may have the 5000rpm rev limit issue from it thinking you are in park/neutral. have you bypassed your clutch pedal switch to start the car? mine always has been and I never had that issue so give that a try. you juts unplug the 2 pin connector on the clutch switch and put a jumper wire on the harness side and tape it up. then you dont have to push the clutch down for start and it also makes the ecu think something with the park/neutral switch... it gets complicated when you start mixing auto ecu's and manual harnesses I would give it a try though. also its better for starting and helps prevent crank walk by not destroying the thrust washers on the crank.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 10-08-14 at 10:53 AM.
10-08-14, 11:21 AM
#2140
I have the timing currently at 6 to stay safe, but I plan on bumping it up to 8 which is probably better being more towards the norm. So now that my idle is up should i recheck my tps voltage and adjust accordingly?
10-08-14, 12:08 PM
#2141
If you have done the headgasket try 8, of not try like 7, going too low can affect the idle dip if you are idling very low to begin with. if you turn the idle up some the problem will be less noticeable. Yes if you increase the idle via the throttle body set screw, then you are also moving the tps, so you have to readjust the tps back some, cause if you turn it forward enough it will think its still revving some, and will drive funny and wont let you adjust the timing anymore (putting in the jumper will not change the sound or how its running when its in the wrong position as in opened too far).
usually you don't have to turn that screw much to increase the idle once it actually starts moving the arm and increasing the idle (there is a range where you can turn the screw and nothing happens cause its not touching the arm yet) so maybe a half or a full turn after you notice turning the screw is starting to raise the idle.. then adjust the tps back a hair. 900-1000 warm with the a/c off should make a good bit of difference.
usually you don't have to turn that screw much to increase the idle once it actually starts moving the arm and increasing the idle (there is a range where you can turn the screw and nothing happens cause its not touching the arm yet) so maybe a half or a full turn after you notice turning the screw is starting to raise the idle.. then adjust the tps back a hair. 900-1000 warm with the a/c off should make a good bit of difference.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 10-08-14 at 12:11 PM.
10-09-14, 03:54 PM
#2144
Thaks ali, I do need to change the tps location now that The idle is up I was unable to get the audible change.
Do I need to move the whole sensor back by loosening both screws with the jumper jumped and listen or should i be going strictly on voltage of the car cold? Do i have to loosen both screws or just the one on top to make a proper adjustment?
after reading tonight im guessing it needs to go back to say .6v when off and then see if i can set the timing after that.
Do I need to move the whole sensor back by loosening both screws with the jumper jumped and listen or should i be going strictly on voltage of the car cold? Do i have to loosen both screws or just the one on top to make a proper adjustment?
after reading tonight im guessing it needs to go back to say .6v when off and then see if i can set the timing after that.
Last edited by 187; 10-09-14 at 06:06 PM.
10-10-14, 10:01 AM
#2145
yes you loosen both the phillips screws, and turn the sensor a hair back. you put the jumper in after you are done adjusting, if you hear the sound change you got it right, if not remove the jumper, readjust and then try the jumper again. you might not be able to hit the exact voltage the book wants, but you just need to be in the right range. if maxed out in that direction and can't get it you will need to bring the idle down just to the point where you can.
I haven't tried turning the tps with the jumper in before, not sure what that will do. try the jumper after you guess the right position. it should almost be maxed out now in the direction it was leaning to before.
I haven't tried turning the tps with the jumper in before, not sure what that will do. try the jumper after you guess the right position. it should almost be maxed out now in the direction it was leaning to before.
