Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

for some reason I missed that video. yeah that is the sound of the wrong map sensor, I am very familiar with it I have tried out several different kinds. sounds like you got most of the other stuff correct though for it to even run that much and no you wont get full vac with it like that you can hear it swinging the timing all over the place, I don't think i pulled more than -5 when I was experimenting although I didn't get it to run for that long. you cannot probe the voltage of the o2 sensor it will keep moving too fast you need a oscilloscope really which most people do not have around I wouldn't worry about it thats for the heater it will go away as soon as its wired up right on the 2 heater wires. its not a code for the actual o2 sensor signal, hopefully you got that one right its just the signal wire to the original wire.

I think your fixes are easy, you do need a tt map sensor (I told you the motorolla is a long shot), and then you need to wire up the heater part of the o2 again. remember the ground wire for the heater has to go to the ecu on the right pin for the heater or else you get the code. its the 2 wires that are the same color on the o2, one of them goes to +12v, one of them goes to the ecu pin for the heater. the other 2 wires are signal and a regular ground I think. I dont want to pull my o2 wires to see so I have full faith you can figure that part out it took me a few tries also the first time.

killersqrl

I may have a lead on a tt map sensor actually, I'll see if I can get it here this week. In the meantime I'll fix the tach

killersqrl

Yep I have the white going to chassis ground, the blue going to the existing sensor wire for o2 bank 1, (pin B48), 1 black going to +12v (verified with volt meter) and the other black going to ecu pin B71. I wasn't sure about the B71, but that's what I saw in the writeup on page 1. I may look at that one again and compare it to my TSRM and maybe even move the pin and see if I can at least clear that code. Hey I appreciate all your help and writeups on this, I was surprised that it started up on the first try!

187

Heres what I'm looking at, any idea what needs to happen here. The other codes were pretty simple, not to sure what the ecu is trying to accomplish here I am assuming I need to trick it to think its open 100% of the time.

eblick99

iTrader: (1)

first start today! ran right up...its been three years since the engine has been turned over, plus all the stuff ive done to it i was a little surprised.

heres video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jFs...ature=youtu.be

eblick99

iTrader: (1)

its seraching for something after running a bit. needs timing to be set and still need to reset TPS.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7Ig...ature=youtu.be

eblick99

iTrader: (1)

vacc, timing, tps sensor, or map sensor are the only things i can think of that i can do to fix that. any other ideas/suggestions? ill post again when i mess with those and see if i fix it or not. everything else seems to work fine. if it persists after i work on what would be the next thing to look at? ecu? iacv delete?

187

Can someone with a 97 2jzge diagram tell me the propose of pin 63. I was going to tap into it like pin 42 but pin 63 is a brown wire where i was expecting a +5v red/ blue. I was going to remove the browb pin to splice 42 into it based on looking at the diagram i posted.

Also congratz on getting your car started

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

that sounds right maybe double check them. I can't remember what the white wire gets exactly.
If you can't get it to go away I will take another look when I get a chance, been super busy.

those 2 videos it sounds great. since you don't have a IACV you will need to dial in the idle speed via the q45 throttle body idle screw. whats happening now is when it gets too much air in it raises the idle up too far and then it cuts off fuel above a certain rpm when its idling with the tps in the closed position. its basically hitting decel fuel cut if ou are familiar with that, if you had the tach fix done you would see the idle speed approaching 2k, hitting the cut, falling down to 1k, and repeating, I can tell by the sound.

simple answer is it sounds like its running fine 100% to me, just close the throttle body up some till your rpm's are in the 900-1200 range. you will find on cold start it will idle lower and as it warms up idle will increase without an IACV, so I usually set it cold to 900 and hope when its warm its not too high to make it do that hunting thing you just learned about
sometimes when its happy the cold idle is too low, but that is what your right foot is for when you start it to help it stabilize. Remember that time I recommended installing an IACV?? this is why.

once you do that verify the timing with the light, and that will let you know if you have your tps adjusted right if it changes sound or not when you jumper Te1 and E1 to set timing.
set it around 7-8 degrees. I just noticed my car knocking a bit the other day in low rpm 2nd gear and I think its cause of too much advance, the elevation, and maybe the bad gas up here, but I think running only 7-8 is a good idea, the full TT timing is a bit much for our engines unless you drop to 8.5:1 compression.
the 63 is the IDL pin. you shouldnt have to mess with that. you want a resistor between the signal pin and the +5v pin. I will find it I know it was posted here a while back but the thread is too huge now to find much anything. I know the value is important cause on obd1 I think it would be fine with seeing 5v telling ecu its open throttle (disables trac), but I think the obd2 actually looks for a value under 5V cause its a little smarter. still a resistor will do the trick just need the right one.
Ill post it later when I have time to search for it. check supraforums every obd2 supra on there has basically done the resistor on the trac. obd1 only those who get the light do it, and not everyone gets the light for an unknown reason.

187

I actually posted on sf and one reply was to wire in a dummy tps but i feel there is a better option.

I have a 10k on 42 but it didn't help. So i figured it needs to see the "fully open" in addition to the maxed out tps resistor shown in the diagram.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

the problem is actually the maxed out part. obd2 is smarter so to detect a short on the sensor if it sees "max open" for more than 10 seconds or something it will eventually trip the light. obd1 did not have this trip condition. The key is to find a value that leaves you somewhere partially open on obd2 cars, in the middle between 1 and 5v. you could use a potentiometer/variable resistor (like a volume ****) instead of a resistor and play with it till the light clears (might be a delay on it clearing), but I am sure someone has done it already and can just give the right value you need. you would want to use a regular resistor once you do figure it out though I would imagine.

edit* found it read this page, guess you do need to do the idle part also.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...u-mod-102.html

also here
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...-solved-!!!!!&

for vsv removal
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...des-Resistor-s

187

Thanks for finding those links Ali, but I was a little confused reading the guys wording on SF

so I need a 1m ohm between 41 and 42 and a 10k between 41 and 63?

Idk why they worded it like that, was I on the right track thinking I needed to tap in 63?

killersqrl

I have a tt map sensor and plug/wires on the way, hopefully I'll have them for the weekend. Also got the tach fixed but still can't rid of the code 21. I'll mess with it some more once I get it idling good. Thanks for all the help, I'll update once I get the map installed.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yes you were on the right track and those numbers are correct.
you might have some jumper wires on your harness already there as pictured below, this is because your car didn't come with trac so they wire it such that if you put in a trac ecu it trips the code.


so for 42 if there is already the 5v wire there then use that wire and put the reisistor inline.
If its not there just tap into 41 just like in the picture

for the 63 you will also use a resistor from the 5v wire to that pin.
if there is a wire already on 63 its a ground (edit just read you said it was brown so it is a ground) so you remove that one and don't use it.
just use the same 5V wire you used for 42, and connect the resistor before the other resistor or at the same spot.
so you will have 1 wire, that splits to 2 resistors, and each one has a wire going to its pin.

Yeah let us know how it goes, I have a feeling its going to fire right up and idle well this time.
For the O2 if the wiring is right which it sounds like it is you may have one of those harnesses without the extra ground wire or something funny like that. I think there is a mention about this in the supra mk4 obd1 to obd2 conversion thread. check that one out
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...D2-ECU-Upgrade
I have messed with my ground wires too many times to know if you have to do this or not and everyones harness is different it seems ground wise so yeah, if its not working give this a try chances are this is a blank pin on your harness.

eblick99

iTrader: (1)

i backed off the throttle adjustment screw and the rpms were stable. i noticed the screw was no longer touchibg the throttle stop so i took the screw all the way out and the rpms went up a little, kind of odd. ran fine so i let it idle 10 mins or so. heres a video of it running and me backing off the screw to drop rpms, then removing the screw and rpm goes up a little. i need to get a working tach.

heres the youtube link: