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well the new intake is on and done for the most part, still have to tuck a few vac lines by the firewall that are ziptied in the pic.
This intake has the pcv and evap hooked up still through a large vacuum block under the intake, even the egr has a place to be added.
It pulls really well and idles perfect at 650rpm with the sc400 IACV on the bottom., this time I got all the details sorted out.
also got the front valve cover plastic from a supra and took the 3000 sticker off.
I think it looks good let me know what you think other option is I use the lexus one and paint it black and leave the logo chrome.
Now I can get one of those TRD strut tower braces, a BW36x and 3" intercooler piping to match =)
Pics.. enjoy!!
That's awesome! So the idle and driveability is exactly the same as the oem intake? Did you notice any torque loss? What are the downsides?
I know the FFIM makes accessing anything under the intake a pain as well as oil filter changes but the gain in room for the turbo, and simplification of intercooler piping / replacing spark plugs easily is nice. Plus your not roasting the upper intercooler piping with hot IAT temps.
Do you have any pictures of how you mounted the sc400 IAC valve? Is it just open atmosphere? Any weird turbulence noises, whistling?
why don't you start a thread so people can post on there and help you.
Its after the filter and before the turbo
Originally Posted by Ali SC3
Really we are just guessing this stuff should be installed correctly the first time or you can spend years diagnosing this stuff which is why I do it myself usually. I agree you should start a new thread at this point post up pictures from different angles, possibly a video of the problem happening, and detailed about how it works before and after the issue and lets see if we can get it sorted. is there a boost controller on there and what boost should you be hitting (spring) and what boost are you hitting. are you sure you are not just getting spark blow out? hopefully you put in some new plugs with the coils to help with that. make sure ignitor is properly grounded. I am starting to run out of things here. does the car drive fine as long as you stay out of boost?
you keep saying the tps and timing are perfect but do you hear the change in the motor when you put in the jumper. just answer this one question before we keep going forward.
I know guys, I'm sure you are just as frustrated hearing about this as I am with the fact the car runs bad. Problem is that i actually know nothing about cars, and probably should have never attempted this I decided to pay someone to do it, and i learned the hard way (3 times, 3 shops)
The wastegate is a 7lb spring i believe. The manual boost controller had it pegged at 10psi. It never went past 10psi up until recently. The spark plugs are laser cut irridiums. just replaced. All coiled were checked. Yes, staying out of boost, the car runs great.
I will attempt to start a new thread if i don't decide to get rid of this headache completely (sell it, or set it on fire)lol
ok i got it all sorted out...except two things...is the B+ 12v the black wire and the signal wire the blue one? or the other way around? im not sure which is which off the coil
also i didnt see how to wire up the heated O2 sensor...did i miss it?
cant wait to start it! only reason the ffim isnt on is the wait for a new gasket from toyota.
heres a pic so far...
i managed to find a dealer book on electrical wire diagrams for the 1992 SC300 and SC400, obviously the SC300 has proven invaluable to me. if anyone needs scans of something let me know as these arent around anymore.
Why did you recirculate the BOV? You don't have to do that...
I just did my friend s car , GS300 aristo VVTi swap , it uses map and maf sensor and we just installed the maf on the IC piping on the driver side and it works fine.
Just help another friend with a USDM Supra , did a single turbo swap and it works fine without that..
Are you sure you have the right ecu and maf sensor? Start a new thread ill help you with this.
This is one easy mod, maybe because ive done it over 20 times lol..
thanks for the link on the coil plug harness, i think the top wire (black on mine) is the power and the bottom (blue) is signal. thats also what the drawing in post #1 shows but it doesnt say for certain. i found a pic of another car with this mod on supraforums with the power on top and signal on bottom.
is there a post with info on wiring the heated 3 or 4 wire O2 sensor? im not finding that info...that should be included in post #1 for people like me. it looks like post #22 and then again post #34 have O2 sensor info but its a little murky. i just need one O2 sensor correct? not two? and heated so 3 wires go to ecu and 1 wire is grounded wherever?
Pin 48B is OX This pin connects to the signal output of the oxygen sensor that is mounted in the exhaust. The factory oxygen sensor is a 'narrow band' oxygen sensor that outputs approximately 0V when the air fuel ratio is lean and approximately 1V when the air fuel ratio is rich. The engine ECU will aim to keep the engine running at stoichiometric by alternating between very slightly rich and very slightly lean conditions, as the sensor is only a narrow band sensor this is a practical way to achieve (or very close to) the desired stoichiometric air fuel ratio.
Pin 71is HT This pin connects to Ground inside the engine ECU as required to turn the oxygen sensor heater on. One side of the oxygen sensor heater should be wired to this pin and one side of oxygen sensor heater should be wired to battery voltage (Main EFI Relay switched).
And then the power . I can tell you what pin do they go to at the connector itself.
Ok, I started a new thread in the Performance and Maintenance section. I will stop jacking this thread unless I have something useful to contribute. Thank you all again!
i think my car has two O2 sensors up top and a third down low. ide prefer they are all gone since the aristo ecu only uses one heated O2 sensor. AliSC3 recommended this one to me so i have this 4 wire to use. its got two black heater wires, one blue signal wire, and a white ground wire. heres a pic of what i have.
Im still not getting it though...sorry guys thanks for trying to help but which ones go to which pins for the obd1 aristo ecu? unfortunately its not as easy as using the connector as the directions in the box show
I've always get a the heater Cel , that's why I just rewire the whole thing, if it's working on your car with the 1 wire sensor, I wouldn't touch it.
I am OBD1, stock 2 wire O2 sensor, one of them, no CEL or issues with A/F with the supra 6spd ecu. It does start kinda rich but then leans out once it warms up and starts driving.
on my O2 sensor the blue wire goes the pin 48 the signal pin, then both black wires go to pin 71 for heat, then the white wire would go to any ground (to a chassis bolt or ground ecu pin or to ground terminal on batt whatever is easiest)?
or is it the white wire would go to 71 for ground, and both black wires to battery voltage and blue to 48 for signal?
09-04-14, 03:15 PM
I decided to pay someone to do it, and i learned the hard way (3 times, 3 shops)
