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ok, so the tps and timing are set as close to perfect as possible. However, I talked to the mechanic and had him drive it, and he says the idle is much better, there is no misfire, no CELs, only thing is at 4k when the boost really starts to kick in, the computer starts dumping fuel like its saving the motor from detonation.
Maybe it's your TPS? I'm guessing the potentiometer gives a faulty signal where the shaft angle yields 4,000rpm? You can try hooking it up up to a voltmeter and see if it gives a faulting reading at the 4,000rpm angle.
im finally getting some more time on doing this mod with my car, and had a few questions as im not very savvy when it comes to wiring (or cars in general).
my first question is about the TPS...when i check the tps at idle posistion (with car off) what should my multi meter read? and what pins are the correct ones to check...i have ffim with tps adapter.
my next question is about the DS62 igniter which im wiring now. the diagram in post #1 shows 4 wires, my actual old plug has 5 wires. also the colors are different, see pic below. If someone could let me know which 4 are the ones i need and what to do with the fifth thatd be awesome.
my last question is about the ECU pins, i have those wired in but im looking at the SC300 wire diagram from the factory manual; and the numbers are wrong and the view is opposite/backward, so i think im confusing myself there and hoping that is wired correctly.
everything else is wired/ready to go so as soon as i get the tps/igniter right she'll be ready to fire up.
ok, so the tps and timing are set as close to perfect as possible. However, I talked to the mechanic and had him drive it, and he says the idle is much better, there is no misfire, no CELs, only thing is at 4k when the boost really starts to kick in, the computer starts dumping fuel like its saving the motor from detonation. He says it runs great up until then but when it hits 4k it starts to break up and the boost is creeping and spiking and he thinks that has a alot to with the ecu pulling timing and throwing more gas but besides that, overall the car runs so much better than before and there is no CELs so only thing he can recommend is the 7mgte cam angle and piggy back to pull back on the fuel past 4k cause from what he was reading alot of folks that have this setup seem to benefit alot from the 7m cam angle, it speaks to the tt ecu better than the stock GE on i have.
This is the problem I have been having with the car the whole year, and just can't seem to figure out what the hell is going on that it hestitates so much going into boost. Literally everything has been checked, and re-checked, and the car still runs like crap
sounds like its running just fine and there is maybe some sort of boost leak that messes with the ecu up top. generally the ecu does dump fuel and pull timing in boost. what makes him think its not normal? creeping and spiking has to do with the wastegate not the ecu at all. If there is spiking and stuff like that going on then the ecu can get confused. the boost should not creep or spike. do not use a 7m cam angle sensor with this ecu, also do not pull fuel with a safc. who is your mechanic lol.
Originally Posted by myLEXsc400
Is it possible my ECU is bad?
it could be but likely something is just setup wrong if it runs around right out of boost.
Originally Posted by BlackIRON
Ali i wanted to ask you some questions about NA but i always get scared off lol, can i send a PM?
np. sounds like its running alright. hope it works well that intake still worries me.
Originally Posted by eblick99
im finally getting some more time on doing this mod with my car, and had a few questions as im not very savvy when it comes to wiring (or cars in general).
my first question is about the TPS...when i check the tps at idle posistion (with car off) what should my multi meter read? and what pins are the correct ones to check...i have ffim with tps adapter.
my next question is about the DS62 igniter which im wiring now. the diagram in post #1 shows 4 wires, my actual old plug has 5 wires. also the colors are different, see pic below. If someone could let me know which 4 are the ones i need and what to do with the fifth thatd be awesome.
my last question is about the ECU pins, i have those wired in but im looking at the SC300 wire diagram from the factory manual; and the numbers are wrong and the view is opposite/backward, so i think im confusing myself there and hoping that is wired correctly.
everything else is wired/ready to go so as soon as i get the tps/igniter right she'll be ready to fire up.
4 wire diagram vs 5 wire plug (color differs too)
the 5th wire goes to the stock coil. you shuold be able to match the wire color with the wire color on the stock coil and at the ignitor, color will be same. we do not re-use this wire generally we just run 3 new wires for coils 1-3 and the 12v power wire that runs to all 3 coils also.
not sure about the colors will check on them later. what year is yours? if its 92-95 it should be like posted.
its a 1992, I updated the pic here to include the colors of the 5 wires i have. im not sure which is the IGT; the white/yellow or the blue/yellow; in your diagram IGT is black/yellow.
im reading and re-reading the section on igniter wiring but its still cloudy; this is what i dont want to screw up. sorry for the inconvenience and thanks for the help! heres the part on igniter from post #1 so you dont have to go back/forth...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
general guideline of what to do for the ignitor wiring:
First remove all the pins/wires out from the old ignitor plug, and then insert them into the new ds62 ignitor plug as shown in the diagram, this includes +B, tach, IGT1, IGF.
you only run 2 new wires from the ecu and that is IGT2 and IGT3.
Then you add a ground wire and ground it to chassis ground or even battery ground.
For the 4 wires to the coils, you run the 3 signal wires (coils 1-3) to the new coils, and for the +B for the coil you have to splice off the +B wire you just moved over from the old ignitor.
The old coil wire that goes from the stock ignitor to the stock coil is not shown in the diagram above because normally its not used as it goes to the wrong place, but its the 5th wire connected to the old ignitor that's not the 4 shown above. If you were to rewire your harness you could potentially move and reuse this wire, but its easier to just forget about it, and get a mk3 coilpack harness and extend those 4 wires from the coils to the ignitor, as it already has the right clips on it and everything, its just short some.
sounds like its running just fine and there is maybe some sort of boost leak that messes with the ecu up top. generally the ecu does dump fuel and pull timing in boost. what makes him think its not normal? creeping and spiking has to do with the wastegate not the ecu at all. If there is spiking and stuff like that going on then the ecu can get confused. the boost should not creep or spike. do not use a 7m cam angle sensor with this ecu, also do not pull fuel with a safc. who is your mechanic lol.
it could be but likely something is just setup wrong if it runs around right out of boost.
I had the car boost leak tested like 4 times in the last couple months. Its not leaking boost from anywhere as far as I know. So do you think that maybe my wastegate is breaking? Also, i just realized that the car never went past 10psi when I had my old Greddy BOV. Might the fact i switched to a Tial one have anything to do with it, or no?
The car is at the 3rd shop already, beacuse the last two couldnt figure out why its not running right. Ali, how about I fly you to Chicago to see if maybe you can diagnose it?
its a 1992, I updated the pic here to include the colors of the 5 wires i have. im not sure which is the IGT; the white/yellow or the blue/yellow; in your diagram IGT is black/yellow.
im reading and re-reading the section on igniter wiring but its still cloudy; this is what i dont want to screw up. sorry for the inconvenience and thanks for the help! heres the part on igniter from post #1 so you dont have to go back/forth...
so you have them pretty much figured out except for those last 2 wires. one of them is IGT1 and one of them goes to the old coil. since there are 2 wires left you can use what I said in the last post and look at the connector for the old coil and see what color wire is there. likely its the white/blue wire but I am not sure on your harness. you will have to look like I said. whatever wire the coil is, well IGT is not that same color, its the other wire. you will have to look at the stock coil wire color in this case or go off of pin locations. the power, tach and IGF you have correct it looks like. IGF is usually the yellow/red, power is black/orange, and tach is black. the supras also have different wire colors from the SC.
Originally Posted by myLEXsc400
I had the car boost leak tested like 4 times in the last couple months. Its not leaking boost from anywhere as far as I know. So do you think that maybe my wastegate is breaking? Also, i just realized that the car never went past 10psi when I had my old Greddy BOV. Might the fact i switched to a Tial one have anything to do with it, or no?
The car is at the 3rd shop already, beacuse the last two couldnt figure out why its not running right. Ali, how about I fly you to Chicago to see if maybe you can diagnose it?
Originally Posted by 99SC42
Ok where is you maf located?
how is the placement?
why don't you start a thread so people can post on there and help you.
Really we are just guessing this stuff should be installed correctly the first time or you can spend years diagnosing this stuff which is why I do it myself usually. I agree you should start a new thread at this point post up pictures from different angles, possibly a video of the problem happening, and detailed about how it works before and after the issue and lets see if we can get it sorted. is there a boost controller on there and what boost should you be hitting (spring) and what boost are you hitting. are you sure you are not just getting spark blow out? hopefully you put in some new plugs with the coils to help with that. make sure ignitor is properly grounded. I am starting to run out of things here. does the car drive fine as long as you stay out of boost?
you keep saying the tps and timing are perfect but do you hear the change in the motor when you put in the jumper. just answer this one question before we keep going forward.
well the new intake is on and done for the most part, still have to tuck a few vac lines by the firewall that are ziptied in the pic.
This intake has the pcv and evap hooked up still through a large vacuum block under the intake, even the egr has a place to be added.
It pulls really well and idles perfect at 650rpm with the sc400 IACV on the bottom., this time I got all the details sorted out.
also got the front valve cover plastic from a supra and took the 3000 sticker off.
I think it looks good let me know what you think other option is I use the lexus one and paint it black and leave the logo chrome.
Now I can get one of those TRD strut tower braces, a BW36x and 3" intercooler piping to match =)
Pics.. enjoy!!
Are you on the stock open diff still? which turbo? 105mph should be netting faster ET's once you get the traction and driver mod in your favor. These cars are heavy too so I'm sure there is some room to shed lbs without jeopardizing the luxury aspects of the car.
It's an EMUsa (ebay $200) 67mm - open diff. Turns out I had decent traction and I was spinning the tire on the rim! I took it to the track again and managed a 13.60 at 107. The next day, my car had a flat in the LR and when I leak checked it, it was leaking from the beads on both sides. I took the tire off and the bead is shredded, there were little rubber ***** inside the tire and the chrome is "bubbled" on the wheel where the bead seats.
Oh well, that's as much traction as I'm willing to risk on the W58. This mod is still awesome and I thank Ali for posting it.
09-02-14, 10:56 AM
I remember I was jumping for joy after finally getting my motor to run flawlessly,
